Tech Tip 309... Rusty Screw Removal Made Easy

Great post!! I've been doing something similar for years, but I like your way better. Thanks!!

 

I just ran across this tip today and it deserves to be back at the top for everyone that hasn't seen it. SamIyam deserves an award for this one!

 

very good idea, thanks for the tip samIyam and thanks for the bump vintagehotrods, ill be making one tomarrow.

 

so sweet, just saw this tech. glad it got bumped.

 

Nice.....Thanks!

 

We were just talking about this thread the other night and how sorry we were to hear about Sam losing his 15 year old Son last week. Life can be a bitch sometimes.

As far as this thread goes, my Son made one of the tools Sam outlined and it works even easier than you can imagine. Rusty screws come loose like magic.

Don

 

Thankyou very much


For Shoebox door hinge screws i used a #4 bit. Didn't have one to begin with and wasn't working but with the CORRECT BIT it made all the difference. Ill never look back.

 

I searched like crazy for this thread today. I'm gonna rebuild the hinges on my '50 Ford using this tool and this thread:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=570601&highlight=shoebox+door+hingep

 

I just built my own tool that was suggested by Sam - most amazing - when I used it for the first time, the screws came out like they were in butter - thanks

 

Bump. Because the things I learn on this site never cease to amaze me...

 

count me in I have a drawer full of chisels cant wait to try this Thank you!

 

This tool is now on my "To Do List". Thanks for the tip.

Wayne

 

THis thing kicks ass. Thanks!!!!!!!

 

is there a "correct" sized bit for a 49' Merc? I made this tool tonight and got one screw loose, stripped the head on 3 others, and then broke the bit I was using...

 

This tool is now commercially available:

http://www.wivco.com/shake_n_break.htm

 

I did this today. It took about 2 hours to get the driver's door off. Tomorrow I'll work on getting the hinges off the door. I feel like I sprained my shoulder, so I stopped for the day rather than aggravate it more.

This method worked for about 5 of the 8 bolts I got out. The other 3 were completely stripped out before they came loose. 2 of those I get out with vise-grips, turning them about 1/8th of a turn each grip. That took forever. The last one I drilled out, and the head came off. The rest of the bolt is still in the body, and I'll have to remove it tomorrow. I drilled completely through it, and still couldn't back it out with an extraction bit - these things are tough!

I searched auto parts, hardware stores, and Lowe's locally and couldn't find a #4 Philips head bit in my area. After searching online, I found the Sears at the mall was the only place to pick one up.

 

BTW, since this thread has come back from the dead, about 4 times, it's worth mentioning that if you use a bolt (say - about 5-6" long) for the handle, after welding the head to the chisel, get a handful (maybe 20-30 or so) of grommets & stack them over the bolt shank, using a washer & ny-loc nut on the end. Makes it very easy on the hands compared to the plain steel rod. I had one w/a wood handle, but the vibration finally broke the rod, used a friends' w/the grommets. World of difference... .FWIW, his was drilled for the bolt shank, not welded, worked very well either way. Marcus...

 

Boy am I glad that I found this thread. I've been dreading attacking my dang hinge bolts/screws again after a couple of unsuccessful tries a few months ago. You don't need to buy anything if you have a pneumatic impact hammer and a flat blade. Grind the flat blade to the shape of "half" a phillips screwdriver head, get your channel locks, vice grips, and/or old rusty crescent wrench out and get after it.... here's my version. https://49fordcoupe.smugmug.com/Tips-and-Tricks/i-wHfQPSP and https://49fordcoupe.smugmug.com/Tips-and-Tricks/i-MVK4ptR

 

I think SAM should make and sell those. Having done that miserable job on a couple of cars, that would be the best $25.00 a guy could ever spend.
Yes, I'd pay that much. If you've ever done that job, you know exactly what a PITA it is.
Jim

 

They're $15 on eBay.

 

If u don't feel confident making they sell them ready to go.

 

Well......
I wish I had known about this one.
I just drilled out my door hinge screws.... to the counter sink. Removed the doors, then worked on the leftover stubs and removed the backing plates from the A & B pillars.... all OK, but time consuming.

Here's another Aussie tip for rusty threads.

Penetrene = no good.
WD 40 = no good.
half Acetone + half ATF... = kinda OK.


Aussie Eucalyptus oil on rusty threads = the best.

Do yourself a favour.... one brand comes to mind is double D eucalyptus oil.

You can use it to get chewing gum out of your carpet....
you can use it to remove a shitty paper label (sticker) from any surface
you can use it as an additive to wash your pure woollen jumpers (pullovers)
you can use it on a snot rag to sniff and fix a blocked nose in winter
you can use it as a penetrating oil for rusty threads...

Ask any Koala, and they say it's "good shit, man!!"

serious.

that last one I never knew about until I asked about rusted bolts here Down Under.

 

Could you post a link or auction number? I can't find anything on eBay except the Wivco ones I posted the link for above and they're about $45.