Tech Tip - Pressure Sand Blaster on the Cheep

Just a little pay back for the help I have received from the HAMB.

Pressure Sand Blaster on the Cheep

Material Required;

-Old BBQ tank, I used a 20 lb. One, but a 30 lb. tank would be better. Remove valve from tank and purge all residue of propane from tank. I filled tank a few times with water and drained and then blew out with air then left it outside upside down till I was ready to use then blew out with air a few more times.

- 3 - ½” ball valves
- 3 - ½” NPT to hose bards
- 1 - ½” pipe “T”
- 1 - ½” pipe “Cross”
- 1 - ½” pipe “Street T” (behind Deadman valve in picture)
- 5 - ½” pipe nipples
- 1 - 2” pipe nipple, cut in half
- 1 - ½” pipe threaded port flange from a hydraulic supply house
- 1 – ½ pipe plug
- 1 - 2” pipe cap (I used aluminum cam lock irrigation fittings for ease of removal)
- 8” piece of electrical conduit
- 2 old BBQ wheels
- misc. scrap steel for legs and wheel bracing
- 1 piece 8” long ½” sandblaster hose
- Deadman valve and nozzle.

Construction is shown in the attached picture and may vary according to the available material. The only thing not shown is the piece of conduit. I took a piece of ½” metal electrical conduit, squeezed one end closed in a vice and drilled a bunch of 3/8” holed down the length of the piece. This was epoxied into the pipe nipple that is threaded into the bottom of the tank to serve as a kind of filter to break up the sand and prevent blockage going to the sand throttle valve.

First ball valve where air line connects is On/Off pressure to tank. Second ball valve is On/Off pressure to blaster hose. Third ball valve on bottom of tank is throttle valve for sand. By using a “Cross” fiting with a plug in the bottom, the plug can be removed to drain tank if required.

Make sure you release pressure from the tank before taking cap off to add more sand and always wear face protection and gloves when using.

 

I like the part about drilling three quarter inch holes in half inch conduit. Great job! looks store bought.

 

they're on the metric system.

 

Should be 3/8" holes. Fingers were not awake when typing up.

PS Works great, if doing again would use a larger tank, as this one runs out in about 20 minutes. Good thing is the cost to upgrade the tank will be minimal as all parts can be recycled except those welded to tank. Just have to find a larger tank.

 

Great info...I wish I had read this before I spent the 250 on mine.

 

Having a death wish I built one like this out of a freon tank about 25 yrs ago. Havent used in about 20 yrs. This post made a big light bulb go off, I have an old 8 gal propane tank, gonna set it up use all stuff off the old one discard freon tank. Thanks!!!

 

A little to add. We've got a surplus store an hour or so off that handles, well you know, everything! I figured that a hot water tank work just as well and be larger! I've got a friend who used two of them plumbed to a pair of Chrysler V-twin A/C compressors run off a 5hp Briggs to make an air compressor, so I already know they'll take the pressure! Maybe an idea for ya. And thanx for the parts list of what else I'd need!

 

Damn that does look store bought, good job!

 

If it had a handle on it it would look just like the one I paid $50 for at Harbor Freight...