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TECH WEEK: Channel an "A" the Jordan way!

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Cali4niaCruiser, Mar 14, 2012.

  1. Cali4niaCruiser
    Joined: Aug 30, 2005
    Posts: 670

    Cali4niaCruiser
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    TECH WEEK: How to channel an “A” the Jordan way...

    The Idea: I want to build a nice and low roadster with a stock front axle. I also want as much room inside as possible. I just hate that look when the floors are so high it looks like you’re sitting in a radio flyer.

    The Plan: The floors and sub-rails were all rotted out so I needed to replace those. I know lots of guys just build their own from rectangular tubing, but my car is pretty twisted up and I felt using stock replacement parts would help me get the thing straightened out. Plus, I have always liked modifying stock parts, it takes away some of the guess work, (which works well for my skill set) and gives the car a cool semi sorta stock look. This is how I did it garage guy style!

    First: The body was rough cut just to get it to sit down over the axles. A little sawzall and cutting action plus a few temporary braces, give the body clearance to sit where I’d like it to.
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  2. Cali4niaCruiser
    Joined: Aug 30, 2005
    Posts: 670

    Cali4niaCruiser
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    Second: Make cardboard templates of your wheel wells, carefully mark and cut them to a shape that will give you the proper axle clearance and look cool. Now put these away for safe keeping, you will need them later!
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  3. Cali4niaCruiser
    Joined: Aug 30, 2005
    Posts: 670

    Cali4niaCruiser
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    Third: Install your new Sub-rails and sub rail connectors. I didn’t take a whole lot of pictures during this point as it was really just a lot of grunting, sweating, grinding and drilling to get all the original rivets loose. Some careful measuring made the rails slip into place without too much of a fight. The stock sub rail connectors were just screwed into place to aided in squaring up the body
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  4. Cali4niaCruiser
    Joined: Aug 30, 2005
    Posts: 670

    Cali4niaCruiser
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    Fourth: I cut and welded in new, stock wheel wells. I then folded the bottom of the skin over and plug welded it to the sub rails. This stiffens up the *** end quite a bit! Then using those ever important templates I saved, I marked the new wheel wells where they are to be cut. BUT WAIT! First we need to brace up the portion of the sub-rail in the rear part of the car. If we just hack out a piece of the sub rail the rear end could sag!
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  5. Cali4niaCruiser
    Joined: Aug 30, 2005
    Posts: 670

    Cali4niaCruiser
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    Fifth: I don’t have any kind of hydraulic bender so we’re going to have the make this piece the hard way. Using my templates as a guide I cut out a wooden buck. I took a piece of 1”x2” and cut about a million pie cuts in it. I clamped it to the buck, put some heat on the backside and presto! Now weld all million slots up and grind to a nice finish. Line up your new piece in the wheel well and weld it up!
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  6. Cali4niaCruiser
    Joined: Aug 30, 2005
    Posts: 670

    Cali4niaCruiser
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    Sixth: Now you can go ahead and cut out the axle clearance in the wheel well. I left an inch of fat on each of my cuts so we can fold the skin over and plug weld. This will give us a nice rolled lip in the wheel well. Nothing more hack looking that jagged cut sheet metal hanging in the wind. Folded and plug welded![​IMG]
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  7. Cali4niaCruiser
    Joined: Aug 30, 2005
    Posts: 670

    Cali4niaCruiser
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    Seventh: Then it was time to start figuring out how I was going to make room for the drive train through the middle of the car. The plan is to make hoops with the same design as the stock sub-rail connectors and then splice them in, creating a smooth, flowing floor. Basic for most, but complicated for a dummy like me, a little math can save you tons of time when making a circular piece.
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  8. Cali4niaCruiser
    Joined: Aug 30, 2005
    Posts: 670

    Cali4niaCruiser
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    Eigth: I used my stretcher, some sheet metal bent into 90’s and started making my sides for the hoops. I then cut the filler piece for the center and bent it around a welding bottle. A little line up, some time on the TIG welder, and Viola, a dropped floor brace.
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  9. Cali4niaCruiser
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    Posts: 670

    Cali4niaCruiser
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    Ninth: Cut, splice and metal finish. I bolted the original down while I did this so I didnt screw up the dimensions of the original piece.
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  10. Cali4niaCruiser
    Joined: Aug 30, 2005
    Posts: 670

    Cali4niaCruiser
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    Tenth: I then began mounting the body. I wanted the body to be fully rubber mounted and not directly bolted to the frame in any way. Hopefully this will keep some of the vibration down. I used a polyurethane body mounting kit for a C5 Corvette from summit. I made a bunch of these (insert pic) which will be cut down to specific lengths and used as the lower body mount and welded to the frame.
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  11. Cali4niaCruiser
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    Posts: 670

    Cali4niaCruiser
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    Eleventh: These are the brackets that will become the upper body mount, and actually welded to the sub-rails using a series of plug welds. A few variations of these brackets will be used throughout the mounting of the body.
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  12. Cali4niaCruiser
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    Twelth: I mounted the rear
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  13. Cali4niaCruiser
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    Thirteenth: Then two in the mid section...
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  14. Cali4niaCruiser
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    Fourteenth: The floor can now begin! I started with the trans tunnel. The same C=pie(D) math was used to construct this piece. Luckily I have access to a slip roll at my work. Then I put some beautiful bead rolls in it with my brand new machine!
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  15. Cali4niaCruiser
    Joined: Aug 30, 2005
    Posts: 670

    Cali4niaCruiser
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    Recently I transformed my tax return into an awesome new BAILEIGH bead roller. It’s the only 24” powered model on the market that will do 18 gauge steel for $895. All the other manufactures you are talking many hundreds more to do the exact same thing! I love my new BR-18E-24 Bead roller! I sure would love to park a new E-wheel or plannishing hammer next to it (wink wink, nudge nudge).
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  16. Cali4niaCruiser
    Joined: Aug 30, 2005
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    Fifteenth: Then I made some templates for the second and third pieces of floor. I sheared the metal at work, drilled for plug welds, laid out my beads and rolled away!
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  17. brady1929
    Joined: Sep 30, 2006
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    brady1929
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  18. Cali4niaCruiser
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    The floors are turning out awesome. With the majority of the channel done, its time to roll this baby out and see how she sits!!
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  19. Cali4niaCruiser
    Joined: Aug 30, 2005
    Posts: 670

    Cali4niaCruiser
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    Finally: Unfortunately friends, this is as far as I have gotten. I’d love to have my floors and firewall finished for this tech but I just won’t be able to get them done by the 15<SUP>th</SUP>. If only I could get paid to stay home and work on the car! I hope that some of you may be able take an idea home and use it on your car!
     
  20. Ian Berky
    Joined: Nov 28, 2007
    Posts: 3,644

    Ian Berky
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    Killer thread Jordan!!!!
     
  21. Cali4niaCruiser
    Joined: Aug 30, 2005
    Posts: 670

    Cali4niaCruiser
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    Thanks Ian! Its Much better now, got the pics all fixed up.
     
  22. chaddilac
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 14,074

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    Wow! I dig those floors.... my old time hot rodder buddy told me to run the beads up like you did so moister won't settle in em and rot em out!! Nice job!!
     
  23. Cali4niaCruiser
    Joined: Aug 30, 2005
    Posts: 670

    Cali4niaCruiser
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    Thanks Chad! I ran em up to solve a clearance issue and ended up really liking the look. I never even thought about the rust issue, good point!
     
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  24. Kevinsrodshop
    Joined: Aug 22, 2009
    Posts: 594

    Kevinsrodshop

    Good looking model A!
     
  25. 41 C28
    Joined: Dec 17, 2005
    Posts: 1,772

    41 C28
    Member

    Thanks for the great thread. I'm about to start the same procedure on my 31 a coupe, hope I can make it look as good as yours.
     
  26. 510madmav
    Joined: Dec 29, 2009
    Posts: 814

    510madmav

    Wow, nice metal work neighbor!
     
  27. Nice job of it!
     
  28. nick28
    Joined: Jun 5, 2009
    Posts: 377

    nick28
    Member
    from Kentucky

    Awesome work! That floor and tunnel is beautiful.
     
  29. general gow
    Joined: Feb 5, 2003
    Posts: 6,472

    general gow
    MODERATOR
    Staff Member

    very clean. some really neat ideas there.
     

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