Tech Week.... Drilled, Dropped Axle How to

Kevin,glad to see you and yours are ok,great tech,I have used that drill for years ,drilling truck frames for wheelbase changes.You have to be very careful not to de-magnetize them,they sure aint cheap!

 

You don't need the magnetic drill press. The Hougen rotabroach bits really work well for doing this type of work. you can use them in a drill press, milling machine etc. The size you need for this job have a 3/4" straight short shank with a flat for a set screw. From my experience you wont be disappointed using these bits.



Ago

 

Try flipping the magnet switch when it's overhead.... That'll get your attention. Thanks for the thoughts.

 

so very cool. at the risk of derailing the excellent post, what would be the best bit or hole saw to do the same thing on an old fashioned drill press. i've got a couple of good ones (cast iron head drill presses) and will never be able to buy, beg, borrow, or steal a mag drill.

edit:

ok, while i was typing ago posted.

any concurrences or other suggestions?

also, how fast/slow do you need to turn the bit?

 

You probably never will. Forging of medium carbon percentage parts is done at red hot plus temperatures and the part air cooled. No quenching or rapid cooling. Any stress would be relieved during that process.

Bob

 

Greenlee has a really cool and VERY precise holesaw kit. Pretty pricey compared to regular holesaws, but no comparison in the quality. The only other problem is.... They are pretty shallow. Not sure they would drill all the way through an aftermarket type axle, stock axle would be fine.

The Mag drill runs at 350 RPMs.

 

I did this twice actually in my build thread. Once on a cast Magnum dropped axle that I decided not to use, then again on the Forged SO-Cal axle I bought to replace it.

I bought my mag based drill on e-bay, its a cheap one but it works very good and takes the same annular cutters that the more expensive mag drills take.

For lube and cooling I used the white water soluable cutting oil you see in the spray bottle on the table.

My axle is a 46" one so less holes. The holes are also 1 1/8".

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=460009&highlight=26&showall=1

 

One trick I learned on a forum a while back is to replace the drill bit in a hole saw arbor with some 1/4 inch drill rod (if you can't find drill rod a long 1/4 inch grade 8 bolt with the threads and head cut off works too) First you drill a 1/4 inch pilot hole and insert the drill rod on the holesaw and start cutting as usual. A drill bit will want to wallow out the pilot hole on long cuts but the drill rod spins smoothly and accurately in the hole, making the holesaw hole cleaner.

Cutting oil helps too, much better than engine oil, WD 40, etc. I've been using Lennox and Ridgid brand holesaws and they seem to hold up well considering they are Home Depot and Lowes stuff.

Don

 

It would probably burn them up, just wanted to mention the best holesaw I've ever used. Not designed for this though. At $250 a set I'd probably stick to sheet metal with them.

 

Thanks! It is always nice to see what can be done with a tool most of us have never seen before. Is there a pilot drill inside the hole saw that allows you to center the holes?

 

It's not a pilot bit, but a spring loaded line up pin that ejects the slug after drilling through the metal. The drill is fairly common in the structural steel and electrical fields. I bought one of mine at a pawn shop....

 

I used a Step Drill with a 7/8 drill as it's final cut and drilled right through. Worked perfect.

 

What a great Tech Week tip, even the follow up questions get photos!Bob

 

That's just how I roll.....

 

Looks good Punkin'! Nice job.

 

Ahh... Thanks alot Spoke Straightner.

 

Thanks bro....

 

What is a step drill?

 

We call them Uni-Bit's but here it is.... You can get them in alot of sizes but the most common are 1/2", 3/4" and 1" conduit sizes.

 

Kevin,
Ad to your list maintence machinists to drill or bore pieces that are too large to get back to the shop or set up in the mill.

Very good piece of tech for sure.

My question is do you intend to champher the holes? I know pretty hard to find a counter sink that large.

I have alwasy felt that they looked more finished champhered, personal taste I suppose.

I will tell you one thing it sure beats using a Black and Decker 1/2" Mechanics drill with a 135 lb long haired germ attached ot it.

 

I did chamfer the holes with a cone shaped sanding tool. Both sides.

 

Cool,
I have a friend that is a tool and die man that has a 30 degree chamfer bit he made that we used or use for that. The cone shaped sanding tool is a more likely tool to find in someone's tool box.

I have alwasy hated to see an axle just drilled and sharp around the holes. I have even seen them drilled and not debured at otherwise nice cars.

Something that someone that has not worked in a decent machine shop doesn't normally know is that a piece of work not deburred is not a finished piece. it is sure nice to be around fellas that know the difference.

Very nice looking axle by the way.

 

I'm a de-burr fanatic.... I de-burr stuff that didn't have a burr... My guys say that I'm **** about it.

I say "If that's so, I don't want a burr in my ***"

Right?

 

Do you still use the inside beveled tool?

 

Of co****.... Your uncle RG perfected that tool.

Not many people have seen this one (unless you hang around my garage). It's a reversed cone to de-burr the back side of whatever you drill.

I know..... Crazy right?

 

I was thinking the same thing.

 

Really....? We are 4 pages into this thing now and still in confusion.

My post said NOTHING about dropping an axle. I guess you can't please everybody.

 

Great tech. The only problem I see is the cost, about half what I paid for my car.

 

I was thinking about drilling my axle using a drill press and holesaws. Now that i see the webbing is 1/2" thick or so, i'm deciding against it. I already have too much time in drilling holes in my frame! I cant imagine how long it would take to drill through 1/2" steel.

 

The 1/2" thick web is only on the So-Cal axle. Stock Ford axles are about 1/8" or so....