TECH...well sorta... JAG IFS into mid fifties F100

Most, if not all, remove some of the shoulder on these hubs. I've never found anything online saying it has caused problems.

 

I agree.

Never have, never will. Maybe I just put to many miles on my stuff to feel like I weakened such an important part.

 

I do not like cutting on wheels and as far as I know the area of interference on the Jag hub is for wheel (Hub centric) alignment with OEM wheels and I do not see any strength loss by grinding it down.

 

Au contrair. A few years ago on one of the Jag boards, someone reported cracking. I believe the problem was exacerbated by not including a radius when the machine work was done.

 

What other option is there? If i open up the wheel, then the center caps will most likely not stay on, if even at all. I guess I can run some spinners or some type of aftermarket center cap. Not sure what's out there.

 

What about running a spacer just thick enough to avoid the thicker shoulder on the jag hub and maybe a bit longer wheel studs? Something like this http://www.ezaccessory.com/5_Lug_Wheel_Spacers_s/58.htm

The Centerline wheels use the shank style lugs. Maybe a set with a bit longer shank to make up for the spacer?

 

Why, a Jag center cap, of course!! Nothing wrong with the "Growler".

 

At the risk of coming across as a doom and gloom person, IMHO wheel spacers are slim shady. I understand that sometimes there is no choice and that in some cases they can work. That said, why put one of the most sophisticated rear suspensions ever underneath a vehicle if you are going to take short cuts with the wheels? YMMV and that's just me.

 

I'm not using the rear suspension. I have one for a later time but for now I am just going with the front suspension and running a ford 8.8 out back. I wouldn't think running a spacer as thin as the shoulder width would make much of a difference. But it's why I'm on the site asking questions.

 

Don't open the wheel up all the way through.................Chamfer it from the backside so it will "nest" on the hub.

 

After reading the previous page of the threads it occurred to me that if I wanted to enlarge the center hole of a wheel I would make an axle lathe or even a spindle lathe.

The axle lathe could be set up using a rear axle by bolting a pulley to the drive shaft fitting or yoke and driving it with an electric motor.

The emergency brake on the opposite side to bring the wheel up to speed.

If the wheels won't clear the center of the hub washers could be used under the wheels to space it out enough to clear.

A machinist vice could hold the cutting tool and move it in to make the cut.

Obviously something would have to be made to hold the vice in position in relation to the revolving wheel.

A spindle lathe could be made using a spindle and hub welded to a frame that also allowed the machinist vice to be bolted in place to make the cut.

An electric motor and pulley could rotate the wheel using a fan belt.

As long as you took your time making the cut it should work fine.

Please let me know if this is a solution to this problem or if you can improve on my 2 minute brainstorm.

Dick

 

If I open up the wheel, the Centerline center cap most likely won't stay on. In thinking about running a knock-off set/spinners, if they were to fit a set of Centerline wheels, they are small enough to fit into the wheel hole. That would make them too small to fit over the Jag hub shoulder. So those won't work either. I may try to fins a wheel shop local who has Centerline Auto Drag wheels and check out the center caps. See exactly how they are mounted and if I can bevel the inside edge enough to clear the shoulder and still hold the cap. Not so sure though.

 

Adding a spacer on the front also transfers load to the outer wheel bearing, but also introduces an additional problem. By spacing the wheels out you increase the scrub radius. The wheels steer on an imaginary axis that goes through the center of each ball joint - extend this imaginary line to just below the road surface, and that is where the center of the tire is supposed to intersect. That way the wheels pivot as they turn. If you extend this outwards, then you are increasing the wheelbase on one side and decreasing the wheelbase on the other side as you turn. Remember how well our old Radio Wagons steered? It introduces tire scrub and in extreme cases handling instability. Just getting stuff to bolt together does not mean it will work. You have one of the world's best IFS suspensions under your ride; keep it handling and operating as it should and don't potentially diminish anything for the sake of a center cap. That's my .02 and I understand some might disagree or prefer a different approach.

 

I'm already running aftermarket wheels and tires on it. Pretty sure the size and offset of these wheels might introduce the same. Thanks for your advice.

 

It gave me a lot to think about. Still weighing the options.

 

I can always us a Torque Thrust style center cap. Would just need to drill and tap my wheels. They might look good?

 

While this is true, you need to realize that most if not all factory IFS systems do not have zero point steering geometry to start with (IE there is some scrub radius there from the factory).

Scrub radius gives you feel in the steering wheel. With zero point steering, jacking on the wheel at 70 mph feels just like turning them in the parking lot, no feedback.

That Jag IFS probably has 1.5"-2.5" of scrub radius right now, so adding another 1/2" or so won't change a thing vis a vis how it handles.

Hell, the kinds of stock cars I race run big offset wheels with spacers and everything such that we have scrub radii upwards of 6"-7" without issue.

You've got to go a long ways before you make the car undrivable.

 

That theory would pretty much eliminate practically ever aftermarket wheel worldwide.

 

I understand both opinions on this and appreciate the info by all. It's why I'm on this site. I think I'm either going to run a 5mm spacer and appropriate length shank lugs or if I find some center caps that bolt on from the outside of the wheel that I like, I may modify my wheels to use them and just open up the wheel hole. They are just Centerline Auto Drags and are a dime a dozen. Thanks again for the advice.

 

There is a whole lot of speculation goin on here.....

What is the back spacing on the Centerlines that you want to run? If they have a deeper backspace than the Jag wheels, then a spacer is no problem at all in relation to scrub radius.

Why not just step up to the next standard size of centre cap, and have the wheels bored to suit? Plenty are available in bigger diameters than the Jag hub.

 

Okay I've been reading on here about what years to use and not use and there seems to be some conflicting info, which is not that uncommon really. Everyone has a different idea as to what will work, might work or absolutely wont work. I've found a front and rear setup out of an '89 XJ6. I can get them for 125 each or 225 for the pair. This will be going in either a '61 Uni or a '66 F-100. I'm thinking even if they wont work for that, they might be good swapmeet items. What say you?

 

I would do it. Not my money though. Im sure there would be a market for them in Aug. at the swap meet.

 

The "common" front and rear setups are from Series II and Series III XJ6 (1974 through 1987?) and XJS cars (1976 to sometime in the 90's, not sure about the year break). The '89 XJ6 front and rear crossmembers and suspension components are a different design than the previous series. Not saying it couldn't be used in a swap, just not aware of anyone who has.

 

As I posted on page 3

 

One more small point to add to toddc's excellent post - the later XJS cars switched to rear "outboard" brakes vs. the earlier unsprung set up. I believe the cage was unchanged. These are generally more desirable because they are much easier to service. The change was made around '92 or so, not sure on the exact model year.

 

I believe the change to outboard rear brakes was in '95 or '96. They are very rare.

And I really want a set

 

A friend of mine and I were discussing the Jaguar rear end and he said that he liked the Corvette rear end because of the easier to replace outboard brakes.

I suggested that most of us will renew or replace the brake components when we install the Jaguar rear ends in our cars and that most of us will never drive our cars enough to wear out the brakes in our life times anyway and he agreed with my assessment.

I suggest that anyone using the Jaguar rear suspension make sure that the brakes are properly rebuilt to avoid having to work on them in the future.

The light weight nature of many of our cars will help the Jaguar brakes last a long time anyway. A 1972 XJ6 weighed 3530 lbs. A Model A roadster weighs 1800 lbs.

In a F1 or F100 the weight difference is about a wash and sometime in the future they might have to be replaced if the truck is used regularly.

Dick

 

If it's put in using the original cage (as I did with my Lincoln) then it's only 4 bolts and the whole thing drops out. Easy to work on then.

 

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<!-- / message -->I've seen your setup in other posts and i'm going to copy it when I start my F1 project.

 

You don't have a driveline or brake lines hooked up????? Just kidding.

I built my bed to be a tilt/dump bed so that it will lift up out of the way so I can sit on the crossmember and work on the brakes. I too plan on rubber mounting it cage and all as my frame rails sit right in the stock Jag mounts. I'm running leaf springs and a Ford Explorer 8.8 for now to get my truck running but plan to reunite the rear with the Jag IFS that's in my truck later. Need to rebuild the Jag rear and change the gear ratio before swapping it in. $$$$ is the reason I'm adding it into the truck later. But I will get it in someday.