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TECH...well sorta... JAG IFS into mid fifties F100

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Tall Paul, Feb 28, 2010.

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  1. IRON MAIDEN
    Joined: May 28, 2010
    Posts: 517

    IRON MAIDEN
    Member

    Sure looks like it in the second picture.
     
  2. 46Steel
    Joined: Jun 5, 2008
    Posts: 24

    46Steel

    The front is a 80 XJ6 and the rear is a 94 Lincoln Mark VIII IRS. I haven't modified the lower control arms on the Jag yet but will probably add a 1" spacer to lower the front. Below is a link to my build gallery on FTE if you want some build pics.

    http://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gallery/displaygallery.php?userid=368269

    ________________________________________
    46 Ford Tudor - Street Rod
    48 Ford F1 - Darkside
     
    gregsfiftyfour likes this.
  3. 53sled
    Joined: Jul 5, 2005
    Posts: 5,817

    53sled
    Member
    from KCMO

    I went with 3/4" square tube and longer grade 8 bolts. I had a hell of a time getting it back in, If I could do it over, I'd use some cheaper bolts and nuts to lower the plate, squeeze the new spacer in, then tighten up and replace them one at a time with bolts. my spring compressors didn't fit in the pocket.
     
  4. IRON MAIDEN
    Joined: May 28, 2010
    Posts: 517

    IRON MAIDEN
    Member

    46Steel, the rear rubber mount pads for the Jag you have bolted to the frame, are those pulled from the Jag as well? I assume by bending the frame down like that, it raised the truck a tiny bit? Could you have snugged the Jag Xmember closer to the frame to get the truck a bit lower or is it pretty much as close as it can get to keep it level to the frame/ground? Thanks for the pics, I like the idea of the box tubing for the front mounts. Not sure it will work for my frame but gives me some ideas. Curious why you just didn't use a Jag IRS???
     
  5. IRON MAIDEN
    Joined: May 28, 2010
    Posts: 517

    IRON MAIDEN
    Member

    Just got back home after buying the Jag. It's a 1987, not an 86' like he told me. Looking back at the thread, it shows the XJ6 up to 87' so this should be good. Odometer reads "033746" I find it hard to believe it only has 34K miles. Should I even bother replacing any bushings? I know the rubber bushings will go bad with age as well as mileage.
    So, for those that have stripped one of these down before, what tools will I need? It's gonna be at my friends tow yard. All gravel! : (
    not looking forward to that part. Being there, I won't have all my tools at my disposal. I'm gonna have to pack up what I think I might need. I plan on grabbing the front and rear ends. Driveline to sell with the rear. Power Steering Pump. Steering shaft. I will look at the wiper system as well. I'm gonna try to get the brake MC/Booster as well. If not too much trouble, I may grab the transmission to try to sell as it only has 34K on it. It wouldn't be an issue if I had the car here to strip down, but being in a remote location..... When I ripped the Ford 8.8 out of the Explorer on his lot, I rushed myself and forgot to grab the driveline for the UJoint flange that bolts to my rearend. Gonna try not to make mistakes like that on the Jag.
     
  6. IRON MAIDEN
    Joined: May 28, 2010
    Posts: 517

    IRON MAIDEN
    Member

    Do I need standard or metric tools to start tearing this down? Or both? I'm gonna get over there tomorrow to pull the front subframe, power steering pump, and maybe the brake master.
     
  7. IRON MAIDEN
    Joined: May 28, 2010
    Posts: 517

    IRON MAIDEN
    Member

    A quick look at my frame rails shows 28" where the front mounts will be and 30" for the back mounts. I measured the rails about 16" in front of the axle and 2" behind. They might not sit exactly under the center of the rails but close enough. I should have the front end hopefully tomorrow so I will position it under the frame and post up some pics.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  8. Just dropped mine on to it's wheels. I am very pleased with the stance! Don'nt want it too low. Check it out http://1948fordpickup.blogspot.com/
    Rolling it around gave me a chance to sweep the floor!
    Tom
     
  9. IRON MAIDEN
    Joined: May 28, 2010
    Posts: 517

    IRON MAIDEN
    Member

    Looks sweet. I may hit you up about your brake system. Really like the frame too. I'm sure all that work wasn't in a day.
     
    Last edited: Dec 30, 2010
  10. john~N~dallas
    Joined: Dec 30, 2009
    Posts: 411

    john~N~dallas
    Member

    will this setup work on a 1957 ford? if so are there any tips or tricks to have the body sit as low as possible? thanks in advance
     

    Attached Files:

  11. IRON MAIDEN
    Joined: May 28, 2010
    Posts: 517

    IRON MAIDEN
    Member

  12. IRON MAIDEN
    Joined: May 28, 2010
    Posts: 517

    IRON MAIDEN
    Member

  13. IRON MAIDEN
    Joined: May 28, 2010
    Posts: 517

    IRON MAIDEN
    Member

  14. IRON MAIDEN
    Joined: May 28, 2010
    Posts: 517

    IRON MAIDEN
    Member

    And for those of you that have installed one of these knows they weigh a little bit. Next time I'm bringing a friend to help me lift it in the back of the truck! Rear end next.

    [​IMG]

    What's the best way to get the Jag Rag Joint off? Someone said cut the shaft??? With what?
    [​IMG]

    And what's the best way to remove the brake setup and wiper system?
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Dec 31, 2010
  15. toddc
    Joined: Nov 25, 2007
    Posts: 976

    toddc
    Member

    The steering joint is easy to undo the bolt and just slide off the column. The pedalbox has to come out to get the booster - unbolt from under the dash. Its a real PITA!
    Don't even think about loading the diff by hand, you'll need an engine crane or better.

    Nice score with the car too, that's about the cleanest front end I've seen.:)
     
  16. IRON MAIDEN
    Joined: May 28, 2010
    Posts: 517

    IRON MAIDEN
    Member

    Is it in the cab where I unbolt it from the column? I'll take a look at it next time I'm over there. I need to get the sway bar as well. Although I'm not sure how I will adapt it.
     
  17. langy
    Joined: Apr 27, 2006
    Posts: 5,730

    langy
    Member Emeritus

    If your going to mount the front as it should be on the rubber mounts make sure you grab the unusual steering uj as it is designed to absorb movement, Its a very well made joint.
     
  18. Mojo
    Joined: Jul 23, 2002
    Posts: 1,872

    Mojo
    Member

    When you get a chance, can you confirm some of those measurements Iron Maiden? The measurements between the subframe mounts, and the total length front to back?
     
  19. IRON MAIDEN
    Joined: May 28, 2010
    Posts: 517

    IRON MAIDEN
    Member

    That's why I posted by the picture asking how to remove it. Does the whole shaft unhook from the column from inside the cab?

    Sure will. I cleaned it up a bit and will have it under my frame today. I will post pictures and detailed measurements for everyone. Check back later.
     
  20. langy
    Joined: Apr 27, 2006
    Posts: 5,730

    langy
    Member Emeritus

    I just cut them off with a thin disc in a grinder leaving as much shaft on as possible.


     
  21. IRON MAIDEN
    Joined: May 28, 2010
    Posts: 517

    IRON MAIDEN
    Member

    Well, you see in the pictures where I'm working on it. No power so I need to figure out how to remove it. It has to unhook from the column somewhere. I will get in under the dash to remove the brake assembly and look up at the column and see if I can unhook it. Won't be over there til maybe Monday so we shall see.
     
    Last edited: Jan 1, 2011
  22. IRON MAIDEN
    Joined: May 28, 2010
    Posts: 517

    IRON MAIDEN
    Member

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    The front and rear are 28.5" apart, center to center.
    [​IMG]
     
  23. IRON MAIDEN
    Joined: May 28, 2010
    Posts: 517

    IRON MAIDEN
    Member

    I think I have a winner. Im at at estimated axle centerline position, but it's close. The back mounts will bolt right to the frame. Front mounts should be easy. I was hoping the rack pinion would be closer to the frame but it's not too bad. No room for the sway bar as it sits. The front crossmember if in the way. I need to get back over there and get the rag joint and swaybar. I can always box the nose of the frame and cut half the front crossmember out. Half of it is the radiator support and the other half, that dips down below the frame and is in the way, is the motor mount. I won't need the motor mount so if I have to nip it a bit....

    [​IMG]
     
  24. IRON MAIDEN
    Joined: May 28, 2010
    Posts: 517

    IRON MAIDEN
    Member

  25. IRON MAIDEN
    Joined: May 28, 2010
    Posts: 517

    IRON MAIDEN
    Member

  26. IRON MAIDEN
    Joined: May 28, 2010
    Posts: 517

    IRON MAIDEN
    Member

  27. IRON MAIDEN
    Joined: May 28, 2010
    Posts: 517

    IRON MAIDEN
    Member

  28. IRON MAIDEN
    Joined: May 28, 2010
    Posts: 517

    IRON MAIDEN
    Member

  29. The mileage may be true.
    That is one tidy looking front end.
    Looks like an easy fit as well.
     
  30. Mattilac
    Joined: Oct 27, 2007
    Posts: 1,156

    Mattilac
    Member

    Wow, your lucky you started with a clean front end to begin with, paint intact and all.

    Nice swap!
     
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