Hot Rods Technical Wiring help

The wiring on my Hotrod is a joke (but it ain't funny).
Is it advisable for an old man who has never tackled a project of this magnitude?
Give me some "things to expect" and how to do, and things absolutely don't do.
Everything works as it should, but nothing is tagged so I can identify. There seems to be a 100 wires under the dash.
I think it started as a Ron Francis kit?
The car is 48 DeSoto, now 12 volt, 1st Gen 392 Hemi. Only accessory of any sort is AC,PS,PB,AT(727TF).

Has GM steering column.
Jack

 

I am sure there will be as many options as there are answers to your question but personally, if in doubt tear it all out and fit an aftermarket kit with all the wires marked and a decent wiring diagram.

Vehicle wiring is one thing that that is like fingernails down a blackboard when I see some stuff on hotrods.

 

https://www.amazon.com/Gardner-Bend...locphy=9010594&hvtargid=pla-316285024515&th=1

Get one of these books and a multi meter and start tracing & numbering.
I used this book and it helps a LOT
6sally6

 

Maybe edit the thread ***le to include something about wiring and tips. Just the word Technical doesn't give any clue to what it is you're asking about.

 

If it works, and is safe, why start changing things?
Just drive it and enjoy.

 

You had to pick a hard one to explain using a key pad. Wiring is one of those you got/get it or don’t.

If you do have a Ron kit reach out to get a wiring diagram from them.

 

get a copy of How To Wire Your StreetRod From Start To Finish ( do not let ***le scare you away) - great basics on multiple brands of American cars - available from speedwaymotors.com , etc

 

You didn't do much if any explaining why your wiring is a "joke"; but you did say everything works.

If it is just messy with wires run helter-skelter; maybe you could by bundling them together in groups going in similar direction. Twist ties work as temporary holders. Watch for any poor connections or excess length as you go. Ron Francis panels usually have terminal strip connections so alterations to length can be easily made. The terminals are labeled to ID them. His panels have serial numbers and you should be able to get info from them.

Maybe making the wiring look neater will calm down your concerns.

Remember you don't really need to know the exact color, routing, function, etc of every wire in your car to successfully troubleshoot and repair most electrical problems.

 

Using a simple test light will help and should be in every guys tool box. Before wiring it all together and hoping for the best, a test light will let you know if you have power when and where you want it.

 

Ron Francis wiring kits were one of the first out there if I recall correctly, and for the longest time have had the purpose of each wire tattoed along its length every foot or so. Identification should be easy. My understanding, backed by some limited experience, is that the RF kit is of good quality so I'd be hesitant in swapping it out needlessly. I last used one in the early 90's. Having subsequently wrestled with the surplus wiring in a pre wired (& tattoed!) Painless my latest, in progress, is by American Autowire which isn't pre wired (and being cloth covered is not tattoed).

I'd second Rich B's suggested approach. With the RF kit not being prewired it might just be a case of tidying shoddy work of the original installer. Reusable zip ties can be your friend here. Also, working under the dash becomes increasingly unattractive as the years p***!
Chris

 

If you look at the 100 wires it can be intimidating, but remember , just concentrate on one wire at a time! Use good connections and the proper size wire and make sure everything has circuit protection!
It becomes easier this way! Like a journey of a thousand miles, it happens one step at a time!





Bones

 

My ‘56 Chevy came to me with a new American Autowire harness installed and multiple “rats nests” under the dash. The harness had a bunch of unused circuits; power windows, antenna, A/C, you name it, all wadded up under there. After I identified and removed, or shortened and terminated the unneeded wires it was easier to redress what was left to look better. It’s not fun physically, but with patience you can probably make it better.
They should probably make a basic harness and offer a deluxe version for all of the modern add-ons. Maybe they do. I’ve never bought a harness, I’ve always done my own wiring (for better or for worse).

 

Jack, as usual, a picture will be useful in our understanding. I did my Buick { my avatar } after I turned 72. I pulled one wire at a time, after removing all the "harness covering" that was crumbling . Starting at a headlight, for example, I labeled , with white tape, r. head light. Followed that back to origin. Removed and hung on a ladder. Did each wire this way. When it was time to install the wires, the old one was used as a pattern for length. New one installed, from destination [ headlight ] to origin [fuse block].

Ben

 

Thank You,
Jack

 

Trust me, I do. Have driven for 20 years, about 91000 miles. Everytime I do something under the dash, I will accidently unplug something that I need. Should have thought of this 20 years ago when I was only 58 years old

 

Good connections (connectors) is like finding good hose clamps, not possible.

 

I have done a few maybe 3-4 kits.
Do it in steps, make sure the kit you get has all the circuits needed.
Do it in steps
1. engine, 2. dash, 3 lights front, 4 lights back. 5 accessories.

You can use all your old bulb holders in some instances 9even in 6v to 12v) changeover, you just have to update the wires that go into them. may sure it all grounded correctly.
If it was 6V all the bulbs need to be updated to 12v counterparts

I would recommend a grounding kit or make sure all main parts of the wring have proper grounds.

put a battery shut off (spin type br*** part) on the battery do you can turn of and off as need while wiring or testing.

Get new ground straps and battery cables while you are at it.
BatterycablesUSA is good one. https://www.batterycablesusa.com/ custom made Batter cables.

have the original wiring guider for your vehicle, then also for the kit. sometimes things need to be reworked a bit.
Not all kits are actually universal.

 

It is difficult, but not impossible. I use uninsulated connecters and crimp them properly and use heat shrink. Never had a problem! ( I also solder all my connections, but others here do not recommend that)




Bones

 

If it has worked for the past 20 years, I don't see a problem.

 

My advice is to not waste any time or effort on the existing wiring. Especially since your car has already gotten a GM column adapted to it. Even an amateur whose never wired a car before can install a modern universal GM wiring kit in less time and with less effort than fighting and troubleshooting an old wiring system that's been scabbed together and doesn't work well.
I think it took me several days to do the first kit I got, but since then I can finish one up in one long day, or about 10-12 hrs. over two days. Speedway sells a universal GM kit that's a 22 circuit for $203. More than you'll need, but spares for later are a good thing. There are other kits available also that are also available for around $100 that I've used numerous times, and appear to be identical to the Speedway kit. I've got one in my '39 Chev I bought about 2 years ago, and it's a simple installation. I had to re-pin the column plug because my column was a newer plug; but the kit came with a 2nd connector to easily change to the newer connector.
I was going to send you some links, but you've got your PM message turned off, or blocked in your profile.

 

I have used an original GM harness and reworked it, several Painless harnesses, and an offshore universal. I have heard good things about American Autowire. I will not use another offshore, the wire insulation is too thick which makes it bigger than it should be and made the column connection difficult. Not a huge Painless fan, but I suppose they are OK. American Autowire "Street Rod" kits are more expensive but I have been told that they are worth it.

 

Don’t forget Rebel.

 

X2 on Rebel especially since the OP says he's a bit nervous about the rewire process. I've used 2 Rebel 9+3 kits. The first in my '39 p/u where I had the help of my old boss who had wired many hot rods over the years. No issues. Unfortunately he p***ed so I was on my own for the rewire of my Ranch Wagon. I only had to call Rebel tech support a couple of times but each time a real person answered the phone and walked me through right away AND didn't make me feel like an idiot. I've never used any of the other universal kits and I'm sure they have competent tech support. But Rebel treated me right, the cost was reasonable, and they're made in the USA. Works for me. JMO

 

My wiring was so bad.. I ripped it all out. I went with a 14-circuit Kwik Wire which had great instructions. The hardest part was deciding where to mount the fuse panel and route the main bundle. I suggest making a harness "board" so you can separate out everything before it goes in the car.

 

For some it's a nightmare, I love it.

For me, there is nothing more satisfying than to rip out that whole spaghetti monster, and do a new harness from scratch on a clean slate.

As mentioned before, get a good book first (or watch some YT videos - I link one for starters).

Some hints:
Make sure you get the right wire gauges for each application (there are a ton of lists on the net)

Stay away from those typical connectors with hard plastic insulation, they are the worst, and shouldn't even be allowed near a car.



Get a box of open/closed barrel connectors, good crimping pliers (make sure they fit your connectors), and shrink tubing.





Here is a ton of really good information:
http://www.madelectrical.com/electrical-tech.shtml

Here is a primer:

 

I've installed 2 9+3 kits also, I modified both kits to suit my needs. Great products.

I use the hard plastic crimp on connectors because I have them (collected over the years) and I'm kinda cheap. The key for me is I usually take the hard plastic off, crimp on the wire and use some heat shrink around it.

 

Wiring a car is somewhere where I refuse to cut corners, or to be in any way cheap.

I have seen bad wiring burn cars and trucks to the ground. I will never produce a vehicle prone to doing that.

 

Ron Francis is one of the best out there if not the best so don't bash them because you don't understand, why look for a problem if you don't have one

 

Lotta good info here.
Took a while, but have figured out, those connectors with the plastic covering is about as useful as ***s on a rain barrel. Don't just throw them away, bury them deep so can't be accidentialy dug up.