Termites and Bowties- Early Chevy Group

Doing a happy dance right now.
The frame is square! Amazing!
I’ll weld temporary heavy duty braces to hold the frame rigid before I do anything else.

I need some serious advice here.
Please tell me if I have things out of order.
Here’s my plan:
1. After bracing the frame, I will box the frame but leave an opening for the front crossmember.
2. Mock up the body on the frame so that I can find the optimal location for my rear axle.
3. Install the rear axle with leafspring suspension.
4. Mount the front suspension crossmember.
5. Install the center crossmember.

 

I’d say check with anson axles too. Sid is good; but they lost my buddies axle about a year ago and it was a complete headache

 

Jay, you are a lucky hotrodder! So it's easier to mock up your crossmembers, you will want to weld your heavy duty braces on the bottom to hold your frame rigid and drop your crossmembers in from the top. I've enclosed a photo that I took from my x-member (from Speedway Motors) to give you some groundwork to shoot for the x-member that you choose, including the front for your axle type.

 

I did my front crossmember, then rear cross member and added in my ladder bars. Then did the trans mount and center crossmember.

 

Thanks Mike. I’ll refer back to this post once the frame is boxed.

Great reference pics.
Mike and Snoop,
I’m still a bit mystified at how to decide where my center crossmember should go on the frame. I plan to measure 1/2 way between the front horn spring mount and the rear mount on the frame and drop a vertical line. It should measure 112” from the rear axle if I do it right. That should be the location for the front axle.
I’m not planning on front or rear fenders, so exact wheel base isn’t as critical.

 

are you planning on running original motor/trans?

 

Jay is running a great looking small block 283, recently rebuilt. I'm not sure that he mentioned about a transmission yet, I may of missed it. Gotta hand it to him - he's really moving forward with his '34 Master!

 

My 2 cents worth on frame bracing especially frames that are being boxed I use X bracing. Picture of mine you can see the bracing at the rear.

 

Snoop, I have a fresh 1965 SBC 283 bored 0.060 with a 268H cam for a slightly lopey idle.

I have the same plan. Good advice. I tend to over-engineer things . . . so mine might resemble the Eiffel tower.

Mike, My progress would be better if you would come and help . . . . Haha!

 

I would in a CHEVY heartbeat Jay! I'd be all the more PROUD to cruise along side your '34 when you take her out for your first drive in a traditional hot rod that YOU built from an original OEM powered car that had a top speed of 50 mph or SLOWER!!! Like @snoop74 said, your progress is impressive sir!!!

 

Anyone have a diagram of the wood in a 32 Standard coupe?

 

There are Fisher body books in eBay that cover the closed cars.

 

Thought I read somewhere that these steering wheels are valuable if original.
True?
This one is in a Packard.

 

Might try here:
https://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/
if they don’t have a 32 the 31 should be fairly close to it. Other than that yeah, eBay will have a body manual.
If you’re wanting dimensions to try and make your own, good luck. Guys that do the wood will 100% NOT share any info and there isn’t any dims in the manuals either.

 

Thanks for this link. I just learned that my 34 Master didn’t have parallel front leaf springs. It had knee action IFS. That’s a real surprise.

 

Could be I’m not too familiar with the packards. I have a 37 Chevy bango I was told were worth something complete. Thought about restoring it

 

Check out this very vintage Chevrolet video on spring harmony:

 

Thanks for that.

 

You're welcome!

 

No more floppy doors

 

Been there . How do you plan on installing window regulator, door latch remote and glass parts ?

 

Mock up for boxing the frame has begun.
I TEMPORARILY clamped 48” of 14 gauge angle iron to the upper and lower frame rail flanges. They serve as a backstop for the 48” 10 gauge plate to keep it flat. After the plate is welded in place, I’ll remove the clamps and angle iron. Easy, right? I won’t weld it up all at once. I’ll skip around side to side and front to back to prevent warping. I still need to add some X bracing before boxing.
1934 Chevy Master 5W coupe.

 

Question for the group. My '31 has the stock steering wheel, column, and box and I'd like to change the steering wheel. I've never had it off before, will I be able to use a newer wheel on the original shaft? I don't even know if they used a standard spline size back in those days or how it is mounted. Can I get some education please?

 

New style won’t work. I tried already.

You may be able to swap the bolts on a new style for some j bolts and grab from the bottom that way or i was just going to sacrifice a cheap c clamp and weld some tubing with a 1/4 cut out to make one.
It’s a 35 but steering wheel/column are the same. About 1:07 in:

 

Rear suspension kit from Posies arrived today. Designed for 1933-35 Chevy cars. Nice people to deal with and excellent pre-sale customer service with answers to questions and quick shipping. Parts included two sets of axle brackets so I have different frame height options. I’ll get this mocked up soon. Would it make sense to powder coat these smaller parts?

 

Looking forward to see how it turns out. I'd paint it. I haven't been happy with powder coat. Probably just me expecting more than it is.

 

I agree just paint it; I did the same. Some painted and some por-15

 

Really nice kit Jay, quality is written all over it!

 

Frame work today.
First, I confirmed it was square and flat and then added X-braces front and back.
Trimmed first plate to size and chamfered the edges at 45° for a good weld. Several more plates need preparation before I start boxing the frame.

 

That's going to be a whooooooooole lot of welding; what is it close to 60 ft. of bead?
You're doing it the right way, it is definitely going to be stout!