Termites and Bowties- Early Chevy Group

Joe in one of the posts you made I mentioned about the perfect transmission mount for the 400 turbo your running. Finally after a couple of days the name came to me and I googled it. Its for a 1935 Chevrolet standard ONLY with an X member.

Its strong , looks good and structurally strengthens the frame.

http://www.ch***isengineeringinc.co...nting-plate-for-1934-1935-chevrolet-standard/
opppps...........READING MUCH FURTHER DOWN, NOT RIGHT FOR 400 TURBO BUT I CANNOT SEE THIS NOT BEING ABLE TO BE MODIFIED TO WORK.

mike lynch

 

Wayne....................nice !!! I see your using a 1933 Chevrolet MASTER SERIES photo etched br*** gauge center section. Or a complete 33 dash looks same as 34-35 standard series. Did you refinish the black with red gauge surround, if so how did you do it. ????????????

mike lynch

 

Thanks [emoji106]I'll order that one , I was planning on making one...


Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

What steering column might that be? If you don't mind me asking [emoji52]


Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Mike,
I found the etched br*** piece and dash in a wrecking yard in the mid '70's. originally I had the original instruments in the car but the temp gauge did not work and the oil pressure stayed pegged. This go around I bought a set of SW wings gauges, cut them up and made new faces for the gauges. Notice they all pivot from the bottom. I had to cut the back out of an old set of original gauge cans to make them deeper. Lots of work. Drew it all up and had the parts laser cutout.
As for the etched br***, it had a couple of kinks in it that I had to straighten out first. Cleaned it real good and shot a light coat of black on it then blocksanded the black off to leave the br*** exposed and the black in the grooves. Hand painted the red then again block sanded it. Finally coated the whole thing with matte clear. Had to do it more than once to get it like I wanted it. I will get a better pic tomorrow and post. Did not have it in the car until the rebuild.

 

Joe, my memory is not the best as I built the car in the '70's. I think it is from a 72 El Camino that I s****ped at the time but cannot confirm. Aftermarket Lecarra wheel that was given to me by a friend.

 

Mike, found this pic from when dash was out of the car

 

Well let me say this , great job on the 33 master dash wood graining, actually more than great, lets say fantastico !!! and also the gauges that match a 33 master . The wood graining did you do it yourself.

I believe JULIANOs was offering a service to do this by dipping the dash into a pan with the colors in it.........some kinda system that works.

I am using a 34 master dash in my 35 coupe and recently modified another 34 master dash to fit my 35 standard roadster. I like the idea of the gauges being moved to right in front of you and the glove box too the right side. I had to trim 33 insert down to fit the 34 master insert opening which is smaller.

I had started a discussion on the VCCA CHAT online Vintage Chevrolet Club of America group in the 1933--1936 chevy section, specifically about refinishing the 33 master gauge insert..

Nobody really explained how they did it like you did . Its the way I ***umed was the way to do it, like you did. The red was the tricky part, they said it was masked, I like your methodology better.

Note.........your 1934 Chevrolet standard coach, I see it has the gas tank cover panel, this was only available on the early production 1934 standards, before they went to the one piece where the panel was part of the stamping. This body is 2" shorter probably thru the quarters than the late 1934 ...1935 coaches

mike lynch

 

Mike, I did the Woodgraining around 1980. Bought a book that gave colors and technique. Used sponges. The new dip method is pretty slick. There is a place in town that does it.
I like the idea of a glove box. I put a 40 Ford dash in the roadster in my aviator and love it. Miss having one in the sedan.
I did mask off the red area when painting the black just to keep from building up too much paint. Used a very small artist brush.
I read your earlier discussions on the gas tank panel. Did not know that there was early and late 34's. it was in pretty sad shape compared to the fenders etc. I need to redo it as it has some peeling paint. I did it in lacquer originally. Rest of body still pretty good.
I bought the car all stock and running. Drove it a couple of years then had radiator/motor problems. I bought another pair of frame rails at a swap meet and built another ch***is. Sold the complete roller frame to a restorer in Ohio. Wood is pretty decent. I made new top, back window, and door bottom wood the first time around.

I need to check out the VCCA site.

Wayne

 

Wayne-o great looking dash! Nice work on the woodgraining!
Tom

 

You probably bought the " how to do wood graining" book as we all did back then. I still have mine some where. Never got around to trying it myself . I am impressed with the wood graining you did, slick !

HIBERNIA auto restorations , in Hibernia NJ still offer nitrocellulose lacquer and acrylic lacquer. They can do spray out sample and match your old paint. Better to shoot acrylic lac as it has less tendency to crack. They also sell thiners, primers to match. I have to drive there this summer, a full day 14-15 hours to get a match for the paint on my red 35 chev touring . Same place, gas tank cover needs redo.

mike lynch

 

Found this sequence of pictures of the custom roadster or touring rear window I made last year.
My 35 chev touring has a mail slot rear window and you really cannot see out of it properly due to distance from the drivers seat to rear window area. Cars come right up behind me and I do not even know how close they are.
When the top was made back in early 80's there was no consideration for having the rear window area zipped in or put on studs, so we could see out easily. The other problem with this type of non zipped rear area, it acts like a parachute dragging you slower. Going to get the top replaced next year, has to be custom made as early pre 38 Chevrolets nobody makes them.
So to have something different, this was designed for the roadster originally by myself. Always liked the shape of the 33--36 chevy rear window. I took an original rear closed car window gl*** and traced it out onto cardstock.

I then took the pattern and narrowed it 4 inches thru the middle , side to side. Not satisfied I decided to section the pattern and took 1 3/4" top to bottom to lower it . Now I made a new tracing and produced a pattern . This narrowing and sectioning gave the pattern a new lower sleeker look. Mikie likes it !!!!!

I realized that to make this work I needed to make a sandwich design, with the middle piece of aluminum holding the gl*** in position. I would use gl*** setting tape to cushion the gl*** from the aluminum. Next step , off to the water jet cutter guy to have these two patterns duplicated .
I drilled and tapped the pattern with 10/32 tapered head allen socket stainless screws.

To smooth the edges out and make the top and bottom edges match, out comes the 6 x 48 belt sander with 9" side disc, the rigid on its side 3 x 21 oscillating belt and drum sander. ***orted grinders air and electric. Aluminum loads up quickly onto belts and 6061-T6 is really hard material.

Here is some pictures of the still unfinished rear window, that will eventually be powder coated after the inside edges is smoothed out to match each other.

mike lynch

 

trying to see from the drivers seat thru this mail slot rear window is an adventure.
mike lynch

 

I am starting my 31 Coach build and am curious, are you guys boxing your frames or leaving them as they are? I have a mild 283 and am keeping 4 springs with old Chevy front axle and 1970 chevy 10 bolt rear end.

 

This is getting too "Street Roddy" for me. There is a great old Chevy site called Rusty Bowtie. Madmike is well known there too. It has a lot os very nice guys with more new tech old GMs.
http://rustybowtie.com/index.php

 

Early bowtie guys, has anyone seen my dads old 33? He sold it in the early 80's and it went south. Mississippi , Alabama, or Louisiana. I would like to get it back. I know, it's a long shot.

 

Question is , how much has somebody changed it from the picture to now ?/

first give away would be the wheels if they are still being used, PLUS it has a left front welled fender !!! 3rd easy spot is that radiator mascot....def not a stock 33. nor a 34. Hard to see, but things like that easily changed over time.
With cars being built and sold all over the country, could be in USA still or somebody in Europe might have it.

Just google 1933 Chevrolet for sale once a month, never know what might turn up.

mike lynch

 

Matt you can box it if you like, but with a 283 its not really a horsepower torque monster and you should be okay. BUT stuff a crate motor ZZ4 350 ---355 hp and 400 ft torque, situation is different.

I would look for a company that produces tubular X member systems for that ch***is too stiffen it up. Think maybe a place called "the roadster shop" produces them, unless you have a rod shop in your area that has a tube bender. ?? Makes for a real nice look. Other way is steel plate cut with a plasma or water jet cutter and welded in solid front to back and cross members attached to it.

mike lynch

 

Thanks for the input Mike. I plan to put add two angle braces from the transmission crossmember pointing towards the rear of the frame...like a K member. Was going to use bent plate of the same thickness and dimensions as the frame with holes cut to run exhaust through. Tubing would be a good option too. I have a tubing roller that would do the bends needed.

Thanks
Matt

 

So I'm getting ready to put my leaf springs back together and someone mentioned leaving a few out to soften the ride?? Anyone else doing this ? I have the plastic to put in between each leaf as well.


Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

If you look at the 32 fords and 33-34 fords like pete and jakes ch***is they offer a lot of good picture ideas. 30-31 ford model a ch***is they also do a nice job on. Pretty sure when boxing they INSET the boxing plates slightly. Forget why , but looks good.

mike lynch

 

Nice thank you! Some one must have already done this... being that's all the leafs I have [emoji15]


Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Thank you ! Someone must have already taken leafy' s out since that's all I have ... I'm on it!


Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

mine rides smooth......

 

Well I only had five to start with, looks like you have eight? We shall see how she rides with five [emoji58] looks like your missing a bolt on your muffler hanger [emoji118][emoji12]


Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Here is a diagram of early chevy SHIMMING locations to adjust your doors up or down.

mike lynch

 

SIX BALL some of what we are discussing here is O S = Old School, some of it is hot rod, some of it is street roddy as you say. Talking about boxing frames, making our own rear window frame chopped and sectioned. Lowering the car thru removing springs. What works for rear end width????

Somehow people seem to think that O S is throwing away fenders and hoods, channeling car body over the frame, whacking the top, filling the top, sticking some oddball tail lights on the rear.

Not everybody did that to their mostly 95% ford cars. I personally prefer resto rods as brought forward in late sixties, with all the do dads options. Its a style I like and from the look of T FOCH 33 chevy cabriolet I would say he does too. O S is a style that p***ed the popularity and some still love it and others cannot ride in one because roof is chopped and seat is on floor . Its not for everybody.

mike lynch

 

"for me".. didn't mention "OS" Everyone can build what they want it doesn't matter to me. I was just trying to steer some here to the Bow Tie site where there are no "period correct" guidelines. All of the descriptive categories mean different things to different people and thus mean nothing at all. They've have been discussed into the ground on this site. There have been great cars built in all eras right along with total **** none of them are "for everybody".

 

I did not know we termite/bowtie lovers had guidelines, we have been fringe'd off as car people , other than ford lovers. How about subs***uting the word TRADITIONAL instead of period correct. Whats traditional , a 32 ford roadster hi-boy, dropped axle, big headlights with red steelie wheels. Terry Cook former editor of hot rod or ??? sold t shirts called SHEEP RODDER poking the bear with a stick about them all looking the same. Funny stuff, I bought 6 of them.

Its always 32 ford this & 33-34 ford that in street rodder magazine, if you like something else, your WEIRD. Your marginalized . Heck how often do you see Chrysler...dodge, Desoto , Plymouth street rods featured ?????

Last time I went to nsra nats east was probably 1999. Walked around looking specifically at 33--35 Chevrolets for a whole day, there was lots there to my surprise.
Next day my friend Frank and I went looking for anything that wasn't ford or Chevrolet. Found a 32 nash phaeton, another 32 nash 2 door sedan owner was just shaking on selling his car for $22.5 I believe. Found lots of Pontiacs, willys, LaSalle's, lincolns the 31--38 big ones, packards. Even a pierce arrow that was done up. Also 2 Desoto airflows, those are trick.

I pointed out more than a few times to the editor that the hobby isn't made up of those 3 years of fords and should not cons***ute 27.9 % of magazine coverage over the year. Falls on deaf ears, I no longer care and have avoided purchasing said magazine for at least 7 years.
mike lynch