Termites and Bowties- Early Chevy Group

after what seemed a long time prepping the floor and buying some special eastwood chassis paint with ceramic in it. I dug out the low pressure hi volume gun. It layed on pretty good and when these pictures were taken the stiffening ribs were not bolted down yet. I applied an oil and water proof cork rubber sheet mix to the bottoms of the ribs so nothing gets scratched.

mike lynch

 

yes the hump area would be for rear end travel, the only saveable part of the original floor panel. Seeing as how I am running a jag rear end there is no need for the hump , as center section is fixed. After I repaired it, last fall I bought one that was like new and its for a roadster or a phaeton only, extremely fortunate for me to actually find one and in that good a shape, cost me $500 and worth it.

My 35 phaeton' s previous owner took the original floors out and made stainless steel ones, which I plan to replace with originals, which I now have. When that was done early 80's with SS , it was the trend.

This is the very rear floor panel for a coupe or sedan, roadster or phaeton. Those 2 large holes in the corner are for the drain hoses from the water troughs to dump on the ground. A trip to metal chemical stripper will have that coming back 100% rust and paint free. You dream of finding sheet metal like this.

This panel will end up in my 1935 Chevrolet coupe as what I have in there is home made and no character at all. I like the stamped ribs, even tho nobody will be able to see it , except somebody I run over....???

You can see the factory holes for nailing this panel to the rear wood and the 6 holes for nails into joist that runs across where its nailed there to.

The 3 staggered holes across the middle that are threaded, I think maybe are to hold the wires to the right side of car tail light ???

mike lynch the real madmike3434

 

Thanks, but got a repoped one.....
A good set of running boards, but i think i'll just replace the rotten metal, and they will get a tuck n roll white treatment. Finish the brakes/fuel lines and notch the gas tank for the QC, and get the clutch working over winter (bunch of little stuff to) Hope by spring to get it ready for paint

 

Sounds like a good plan - really dig the white tuck n roll as I plan to do something similar! Where I'm not following you is that you mentioned to notch the gas tank for the quick change?

 

plan on running a stock tank, and to get the QC cover off, it 'should' be an issue hitting the tank. I still have to put the tank in place and see if i can get the cover off. But by the looks of it, i will have to modify the tank a little.

 

You know, I will be installing my Winters Champ QC as well (which type is yours), but decided to place my 20 gallon stainless fuel tank in the trunk. Originally designed to be in original location. I didn't think the QC would be that close to fuel tank! Figure the studs are about an inch long too. Nice fab work toward the rear, looks like you're using leaf springs to mount the QC. I'm planning to use adjustable coil overs and hairpin radius rods for my QC. Coming along great PBR!!

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Thanks Mike. It's an old Jones mag QC, and yes using a custom set of leaf to lower is about 1 1/2" from stock. Makes 28" tall tires fill the rear fenders perfect. Cant take all the credit for the fab, we did it in my buddies shop, and he's a mad man when it comes to that stuff. Also made mounts for a set of NOS Traction master's.

 

PBR, you're right about your QC being too close. Just measured mine and from the center of the axle tube to the end of the long rear cover bolts is about 12-1/2". Measured on my rear of this measurement and seems very close, although my original tank is already out, so it's hard to say exactly. Guess you'll be using the short cover bolts to gain as much room as you can.

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Mike,
I do know of a guy with a set of chrome trunk latches, not the hinges, but the latches that hold the lid up.

 

The first photo shows an example of how "rough" some rodders were at their fabrication skills. It's the master cylinder mount which had the early '49-'54 Chevy mc. The rear is from your ever-so-common '55 thru '64 Chevy posi with 4:11 gears. The only mishap I had with this rear is that I broke the ring and pinion, could not locate another posi unit, so I found a 4:11 open ham. Hey, this rear lasted a LONG time in my possession and the prior owners. The Winters QC will be gladly taking its place soon enough!

 

Like the quick change.

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question, do quick change rear set ups howl , like a gear drive timing setup ???

mike lynch

 

From what I've heard on the net, they do howl. Nobody in my area has a QC, so I have never heard one to date. Personally, I can't wait - No point having a stereo when one can listen to the sounds of a true HOT ROD! It was mentioned that if you're going on a long trip, it's suggested to switch over to another set of gears that has its outer edge cut to make the howl quieter. We'll see Mike!

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yes they should howl a little, usually drowned out by a good set of exhaust, but as Mike said outter edge cut will make them quieter

 

Have you heard the sounds of a QC yourself PBR?

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looking at the quick change, it sure looks beefy, impressive !!!!!!!!!

I was looking at the QC cover from speedway motors to go on my Jag rear. It measured up so close to the gas tank I wasn't about to shell out many $$$ to find out if it could fit. Nice to have the real deal.

Howling rear end, noisy gear drive and Gilmer belt drive , all make for a noisy ride. Neighbors would know your coming home. Now add some original style glass packs and get ready for tickets.

mike lynch

 

Me too! Can't wait to get that old Chevy rear out and start the installation of my quick change. I'm changing over from the leaf springs to chromed coil-overs and chromed hairpins. Gonna need some good advice to how and where do I weld the brackets to hold the hairpins, as I've never mounted a differential before. Hey Doug, what's happening with your Chevy sedan lately?

 

If your QC's Ring and pinion is set up right and you use good Quickchange gears, the noise will be minimal. Helical gear sets will make it even quieter.

 

With Winters gears, should be good to go. I 'm looking forward to hear some whine...

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Got all my sill wood replaced and the Hinge pillar, still need to get kickups in but went ok replacing all the termite damage so far.

 

Coming along great JGR! Did you make or order the sill wood?

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Ordered it and fit right in. Took some tweaking to get it all in with metal still on car but worked out. Like I said in previous post I have some liberties since it will be a hot rod not a correct restoration. I will be adding some steel bracing and plan to do interior in sheet metal but still wanted the original wood structure.

 

Nice job, like madmike mentioned earlier, many wood suppliers are jammed up. You received your wood pretty fast!

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Found another company that sells FULL boxing plates for '31-'32 Chevy cars and '31-'33 Chevy trucks - http://www.superiorglassworks.com/1931-1932-1933-Chevy-boxing-plates-p/32box.htm

 

I listed this company before, but here it is again - boxing plates for Chevy cars & trucks:
https://www.progressiveautomotive.com/installations-kits-parts/frame-boxing-plates.html

Chevy:

1931-32 car & 31-33 truck

Full Boxing set FL-CA $389

Partial Front Boxing, 26″ long FB-CA $89/pr.

Partial Rear Boxing, 26″ long RB-CA $89/pr.


1933 Master

Full Boxing set FL-CB $389

Partial Front Boxing, 26″ long FB-CB $89/pr.

Partial Rear Boxing, 26″ long RB-CB $89/pr.


1934-35 Standard car

Full Boxing set FL-CD $389

Partial Front Boxing, 26″ long FB-CD $89/pr.

Partial Rear Boxing, 26″ long RB-CD $89/pr.


1934 Master car

Full Boxing set FL-CC $389

Partial Front Boxing, 26″ long FB-CC $89/pr.

Partial Rear Boxing, 26″ long RB-CC $89/pr.


1935 Master / 1936 Standard car

Full Boxing set FL-CE $389

Partial Front Boxing, 26″ long FB-CE $89/pr.

Partial Rear Boxing, 26″ long RB-CE $89/pr.


1934-36 truck (1/2 ton, Short bed type)

Full Boxing set FL-CTB $389

Partial Front Boxing, 26″ long FB-CTB $89/pr.

Partial Rear Boxing, 26″ long RB-CTB $89/pr.


1937-40 truck (1/2 ton, Short bed type)

Full Boxing set FL-CTC $389

Partial Front Boxing, 26″ long FB-CTC $89/pr.

Partial Rear Boxing, 26″ long RB-CTC $89/pr.


1941-46 truck

Full Boxing set, 1/2 ton, Short bed type FL-CTD $389

Full Boxing set, 3/4 ton, Long bed type FL-CTD-L $419

Partial Front Boxing, 26″ long FB-CTD $89/pr.

Partial Rear Boxing, 26″ long RB-CTD $89/pr.


1947-53 truck

Full Boxing set, 1/2 ton, Short bed type FL-CTE $389

Full Boxing set, 3/4 ton, Long bed type FL-CTE-L $419

Partial Front Boxing, 26″ long FB-CTE $89/pr.

Partial Rear Boxing, 26″ long RB-CTE $89/pr.


1954-55 (1st Series) truck

Full Boxing set, 1/2 ton, Short bed type FL-CTEE $389

Full Boxing set, 3/4 ton, Long bed type FL-CTEE-L $419

Partial Front Boxing, 26″ long FB-CTE $89/pr.

Partial Rear Boxing, 26″ long RB-CTE $89/pr.


1955 (2nd Series)-59 truck

Full Boxing set, 1/2 ton, Short bed type FL-CTF $389

Full Boxing set, 3/4 ton, Long bed type FL-CTF-L $419

Partial Front Boxing, 26″ long FB-CTF $89/pr.

Partial Rear Boxing, 26″ long RB-CTF $89/pr.

 

Nothing like the true sound of a Chevrolet wood framed.........CLICK THUNK , rather than fordy sounding , CLICK BOING. Just sounds so solid when wood based.

mike

 

Anyone know what is the best nail to buy to put the metal back on the wood or where I can find them?

 

Who can fill me in on this one??

 

What do you need to know? All I have to add is that this truck is really unique in that it's an early Chevy panel, something you rarely see! And even better that it's been rodded. Anyone else?

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Whose is it? Could it be up for grabs?