Going to try to test the '36 gas gauge going into the coupe this weekend. Can anyone confirm I have this right? The test is to both confirm the gauge 'works' and that they converted it to the correct ohms range for full/empty. Only two terminals on the gauge so I ***ume 12v to one and a 0-500 ohm potentiometer between the other terminal and ground. Do I need to ground the body too? PS: as you can see, I flunked art cl***!
Will there need to be a voltage drop in there since the gauge was from a 6-volt car? Or does the sender need the drop, and since there is no sender in this test no drop is needed?
Ahh, should have mentioned that. When I had them rebuild the gauge I had them convert to 12v and for a SW 33-240 ohm sender. So, hopefully the voltage shouldn't be an issue. i am more concerned in ensuring I get the wiring correct to test it.
Best bet is to call your gauge rebuilder. Anybody on the HAMB who tells you how to wire the gauge won't give you a refund when the thing starts smoking.
Thanks but this thread is more about the wiring required to test a base gauge. The rebuilder isn't needed for this. Anyone?
When doing this test on tri five gauges. We would use the float wire as required and it will show if it's good are bad. Hot to + on gauge wire to sender to gauge. Then a ground to all points.
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