FYI you can buy trans fluid in gallon jugs.....might save a few bux that way. As mentioned before 1qt. in the torque converter and 4 in the pan will be perfect to get'er running. Keep at it. Good work always pays off. Then you get the thrill of knowing YOU did it! Have fun. Good luck.
I believe when installing converter listen for 3 distinct clicks when splines are engaging while turning converter and pushing it into place. then you know its fully seated.yruhot
I can't always tell how many times it "clicks", but I can measure the distance between the converter and front of the case, and the flexplate and block, and then make sure that there is more room than it needs. Also, I can tell if I can't get my fingers behind the converter.
My '55 F100 has 350 / 350 T.H., 9" 3.08 rear, 255 70 X 15 rear tires. Quick out of the hole, comfortable at 85 MPH. Good all around combo. I did have 3.70s, but fun as they were, wound the engine up on the freeway...
Yea 3.55s in my car now are a little higher in Rpms than I want and as odd as it is coming from a dude that is building a rod, I rarely get on it at all so I'm sure I won't be disappointed. My daily had 240 and my family vehicle has 280. They seldom see 2500 Rpms. Trouble is I am having a crazy hard time finding 3.08 gears locally. Anyone know what year Chevy made compatible gears until for the 1955-57 rear end?
64 was the last year. They started making 3.08 gears in 62. 3758549, is the part number from GM back then. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/spz-36189/overview/
Check your slip yoke. Some of them have a vent hole in the plug at the end of the splines. This will leak trans fluid on an automatic. You can weld the hole shut, or drill it to 1.8" and plug it with a closed end pop rivet.
or check the output shaft on the transmission, if it has the collar with the O ring inside, you don't need to worry about the vent hole.
Thanks guys! I really appreciate this dialog. There have been a handful of gold nuggets here that have saved me money and stress.
Squirrel.... I was under the impression only the 55-57 were the correct width to run with my skirts... But I just saw a chart last night that says all the way to 64 is the same width... Can't be, right?
I was talking about the center section, not the housing. They probably are all close in width, I haven't paid much attention.
The 58-64 Housings have been mentioned over on C.T.; you just have to remove all the coil spring bracketry, and weld on leaf spring perches. See DZAUTO's last response in the 49-54 forum regarding the use of a truck rear end by a guy in the U.K.. Most guys just don't want the "extra" work of cutting/welding any more than they have to. Stick a wanted ad on your local Craig's List in the auto-parts section, not the wanted section. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.
Butch I typically put an ad like I am selling the thing I want, but put wanted. Seems to get more attention. Is that what you mean? And I have one out now for 3.08 3rd member. A friend is giving me a free 1957 banjo, another friend is giving me a free set of brakes (less cylinders and shoes sadly) and a drive shaft. I am just having a hard time finding gears. Rochester is kind of a poopy market for stuff like this. All been scrapped long ago or sitting somewhere and can't be had for a reasonable price. I long for Midwest pricing and availability
Has't been but about 2 months since I finally sold my 3.70 open third member, and it was for sale almost a year. It was about to be scrapped when I got the call. I'd have given it to you for the shipping! I'll see what I can find locally; I have a friend who deals in the "stuff". Shipping is the $$$ part, but Greyhound is far cheaper than UPS. Craig's List has a "Wanted" section; I don't use that, and instead use the "auto parts for sale" section as a "Wanted" posting, probably the same as what you've done. 3.08, 55-64 gears are probably going to be harder to find than 3.55 or 3.70; a 327 is going to work a lot easier than a 235, so there's a big difference as far as the ratio goes. I'd shoot for 3.55. Be sure it's a 57 housing (drain plug) as the axle bearings are different than 55-56, and even 58 on. You need to know to get the right axle bearings Axles themselves are the same other than 57 on being 1/8 inch shorter. Any 60 inch or so wide rear end can be used, it's just a matter of spring hangers and parking brake cables; the wheel bolt pattern can be changed easy enough (There's even a HAMBER that sells a tool to help with the DIY guy). MOPAR's commonly use a 3.23 ratio. I do have a couple of third members, only thing is, ones 4.88:1 Posi, the other a 5.38:1 Posi. They'd make the car "snappy". I also have a new set of 5.57:1 gears only. I do have some good, used brake parts; you'd still need backing plates/wheel cylinders/drums. Again, the backing plates are different 55-56/57/58 on. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.
I will dobke check it when it get it from the guy. Probly a few weeks he is going away. I think I meant 3.36 not 3.23. I am shooting for the lowest possibly because I am building the car for nice low rpm 65 expressway cruising so 308 is my dream. I certainly appreciate you asking you friend! Hopefully it works out... Check out this thing on the th350. It appears to be broken and I'm not sure what it is...
just a little round piece of plastic tube? if so, it's the vent....used to look like this. I think you can still buy them. http://www.summitracing.com/search/...ansmission-vent-tubes/transmission-type/th350 .
I hope so! Mine is gone! The trans and engine are together by the way. Wasn't peasant but wasn't difficult either. Almost dropped the transmission and the torque converter flew out. Caught that and stopped the transmission from falling using my knees. Gotta laugh or else it's just no fun.
Yea! One thing that's never racking... I am using the outer most 4 intake manifold bolt holes to lift the engine... The bolts are just ever so slightly larger than the chain loops. Was going to grab some thick washers and longer bolts but figured I'd ask those with far More knowledge than I if that's the best location for the chains....
Alright. Next step is getting it in the car and the transmission mount. The while thing is 7 inches longer and obviously way wider. It's going to be fun
Make sure you get everything figured out first...steering, exhaust, radiator, fan, short water pump, etc.
I don't know if this is taboo or not, but here is my "progress thread" on Chevy talk http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?fid/30/tid/332202/pid/2602388/post/last/#LAST
Hey all! Reviving this thread for a moment. I am building a bracket to use my stock transmission crossmember with my th350 (hoping I don't need to take out the transmission any time soon) and was wondering what to do for the mount. I was thinking of just cutting a piece of tire tread and putting it between the frame bracket and the transmission but worried the give from the rubber would allow the bolts to back out
Do you know by chance how thick they are? The top of my trans is pretty close (1.25-2") away from the floor of the car
Just as an example, the Chassis Engineering, weld-in mount they sell, requires cutting into the stock cross-member, notching it, before welding their piece in. That effectively "drops" the trans down when installed. I believe it's about a 1-1/2 inch drop involved, and cutting/welding, and then not being able to pull the trans forced us to make our own mount. I know there are guys who just weld in a plate, and make do. See KIWI's mount from over on C.T.; it drops the trans some. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.
Butch I should have probly grabbed the tubular crossmember from Walton but I did not want to drop $200 plus shipping. Come the day I take out the transmission again, Lord willing I have the funds to bob replace or rebuild the Trans and get that crossmember, I'll go that rout
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