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Projects The '23 Fake T Project...

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by NortonG, May 1, 2012.

  1. steel rebel
    Joined: Jun 14, 2006
    Posts: 3,604

    steel rebel
    Member Emeritus

    Not sure what your asking but I had just split the original ones and connected them to the frame. They broke within a couple of hundred miles.
     
  2. NortonG
    Joined: Dec 26, 2003
    Posts: 2,117

    NortonG
    Member Emeritus

    The pictures show a hairpin setup.
    How did the old bones mount to the rear axle?
    Any pictures of the old set up?
    I'd love to see a rear radius rod set up that failed so we can learn from it.
     
  3. steel rebel
    Joined: Jun 14, 2006
    Posts: 3,604

    steel rebel
    Member Emeritus

    No pictures of the old setup but it was just as your shot above. Stock wishbones bolted to the bottom two backing plate bolts cut off and connected to the frame with steering joints. They just break in the casting. Maybe if you fill the castings as your picture seems to show they might be strong enough. Might be easier ways to do it than the way I did it. Just thought I'd give you something to think about.
     
  4. 26 T Ford RPU
    Joined: Jun 9, 2012
    Posts: 12,592

    26 T Ford RPU
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I had the same on my 26.I had some spare radius rods and made them into set of triangulated ladder bars using all four backing plate bolts. JW
     
  5. Speedy Canuck
    Joined: Jun 3, 2010
    Posts: 3,896

    Speedy Canuck
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I think NortonG mentioned a few posts earlier that he was planning on cutting off the existing mounts on the bones, fabricating new ones, and then reinforcing the entire thing - bones and all - due to concerns over breakage at the casting. Doesn't seem like he was just planning on bolting them on and driving...
     
  6. steel rebel
    Joined: Jun 14, 2006
    Posts: 3,604

    steel rebel
    Member Emeritus

    Please don't take my posts wrong. I love what Norton is doing. I'm just trying to help. I don't want to take over this thread.
     
  7. NortonG
    Joined: Dec 26, 2003
    Posts: 2,117

    NortonG
    Member Emeritus

    I was hoping to see pictures of the old set up you had.

    Running radius rods for a more "period" build is important to me.
    I'm trying to do what I can to bring this build back in time era wise as much as I can.
    Getting back to a mid 50's to an early 60's build would be perfect.
    I've been getting of track a bit too much lately.

    It's time to get some real work done.
    - motor mounts
    - trans mount
    - steering box mount, it's 90% done and just needs to get welded inplace.
    - rear bone mounts are very high on the list.
    - oh man, this is looking like work...
     
  8. 26 T Ford RPU
    Joined: Jun 9, 2012
    Posts: 12,592

    26 T Ford RPU
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Norton, i can get more pics of my triangulated rear radius dors on my T like. JW :)
     
  9. NortonG
    Joined: Dec 26, 2003
    Posts: 2,117

    NortonG
    Member Emeritus

    JW, I dig that set up! Finding one set of bones was tricky enough up here.

    I dig what's going on with Daddio211's build and the rear bone mounts on it.

    Check it out.
     
  10. Morrisman
    Joined: Dec 9, 2003
    Posts: 1,602

    Morrisman
    Member
    from England

    That is because you'd turned it into a giant fixed swinging arm with no flexibly for one side to move without the other trying to follow. Eventually something has to break.

    Cue the long discussions about using ladder bars on rear axles..... ;)
     
  11. NortonG
    Joined: Dec 26, 2003
    Posts: 2,117

    NortonG
    Member Emeritus

    Morrisman, you're a hero! It's amazing how many people just don't get it.
    Silliness.
     
  12. NortonG
    Joined: Dec 26, 2003
    Posts: 2,117

    NortonG
    Member Emeritus

  13. steel rebel
    Joined: Jun 14, 2006
    Posts: 3,604

    steel rebel
    Member Emeritus

    And how do those differ from what I described that I first used except they have the weak cast piece cut off. I at least attached mine to the frame using tie rod ends that have some lateral movement. The reason the stock cut wishbones break off is the up and down movement of the open drive shaft without the strength help of the torque tube.
     
  14. NortonG
    Joined: Dec 26, 2003
    Posts: 2,117

    NortonG
    Member Emeritus

    We're on the same page here.

    but...

    Vast material differences. Just pure strength and building the bones to handle the abuse of being used as suspension pieces, which they're not designed to be...
    Rear bones are not designed to handle the weight of the car or to take the abuse of suspension movement. Thats why I spoke of beefing them up so much.
    I really just love the look of these slimmer bones.
    If you go back and check the post with the picture of my last car you'll see that we used stronger front bones as the rear bones. (it also runs a torque tube)
    Which leads to this...
    Don't forget I've mentioned the use of a torque arm.
    Which really becomes a third link.
    and we'll see if in needs a panhard bar, It shouldn't if we for the shackle angles right being such a light car.
     
  15. 26 T Ford RPU
    Joined: Jun 9, 2012
    Posts: 12,592

    26 T Ford RPU
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Norton i understand fully what each is saying and you can make something as strong as you like,this keep moving the load to the next weakest point,ie; moumting bolts etc. What i cant understand is Pete & Jakes ladder bars only seem to use 3/8 bolts !. 30 years ago we built a gl*** T with a 354 Hemi and used 36 radius rods, that car was race and abused for years and nothing broke.I do undertand what you want to do and like the torque arm idea but the lower arm will still have the same stresses as whats on mine when cornering. Cheers, JW
     
  16. NortonG
    Joined: Dec 26, 2003
    Posts: 2,117

    NortonG
    Member Emeritus

    The Pete & Jakes set up is triangulated with the front mounts very close together.
    Thats why they pivot nicely from that point and don't break.
    Much like a stock set up.
    Everyone uses them for that reason.
     
  17. Speedy Canuck
    Joined: Jun 3, 2010
    Posts: 3,896

    Speedy Canuck
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    Any progress or parts over the holidays?
     
  18. NortonG
    Joined: Dec 26, 2003
    Posts: 2,117

    NortonG
    Member Emeritus

    Bought a few parts.

    No real progress at all lately.
     
  19. Speedy Canuck
    Joined: Jun 3, 2010
    Posts: 3,896

    Speedy Canuck
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    What did you buy?
     
  20. NortonG
    Joined: Dec 26, 2003
    Posts: 2,117

    NortonG
    Member Emeritus

    Not really getting a whole lot done lately...
    I think with good reason...
    Slacking off and making a better game plan for the build and for getting this heap to be more into a certain era that I have in mind... (1957-1962ish)
    Gathering parts and making decisions is more important than just throwing it together lately..
    Which is really what we've been doing thus far.

    It'll be getting those '40 bones and a torque arm... Don't worry, haha.
    The bones will be tucked inward as much as possible to triangulate the rear suspension.

    I scored some F100 shock mounts for $40 that someone bent the **** outta.
    A little bending and they'll work out real nice.

    And something else that's happened recently...
    Tom Medley is a hero and Stroker Mcgurk rules!
     

    Attached Files:

  21. butch27
    Joined: Dec 10, 2004
    Posts: 2,846

    butch27
    Member

    You may like that bend when it comes time to do the shocks.You just never know.
     
  22. NortonG
    Joined: Dec 26, 2003
    Posts: 2,117

    NortonG
    Member Emeritus

    They got mocked up on the frame already and I actually like the curve they put in them and the bend they put in them and they should be the right height too...
    But..
    They aren't right for how I want to make them part of my headlight bar.
     
    Last edited: Jan 14, 2013
  23. NortonG
    Joined: Dec 26, 2003
    Posts: 2,117

    NortonG
    Member Emeritus

    Scored some 6.00-16" tires to get the front end rolling on it's own.
    They're 28" tall and look pretty good in relation to the 7.00-16" rears.
    I love the model name on them.
    We also for some 6.00-16" snow tires in that deal, haha! They are about 29" tall!

    My father splurged and bought a little plasma cutter...
    Things will be moving along much faster now.

    The new steering box mount took less than an hour to get done from start to finish.

    Bent the steering arms down a bit for draglink clearance.

    Blah Blah... Pictures!
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Jan 21, 2013
  24. Speedy Canuck
    Joined: Jun 3, 2010
    Posts: 3,896

    Speedy Canuck
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    Those snow tires are *****ing! Good to see some progress again bud.
     
  25. NortonG
    Joined: Dec 26, 2003
    Posts: 2,117

    NortonG
    Member Emeritus

    Thanks dude!

    I can't wait for more on yours!
     
  26. NortonG
    Joined: Dec 26, 2003
    Posts: 2,117

    NortonG
    Member Emeritus

    I really want someone to mount those snow tires on their car and see it doing donuts in the snow!
     
  27. bgbdlinc
    Joined: Jan 11, 2002
    Posts: 522

    bgbdlinc
    Member

    ...tires are a huge decision and your choices look just great....getting it to the rolling stage is a significant milestone -congrats, you're nearly there...
     
  28. NortonG
    Joined: Dec 26, 2003
    Posts: 2,117

    NortonG
    Member Emeritus

    Thanks Dave! I have a gift for you.

    They're gonna be a little tall...

    Good enough to roll this heap around on though.
     
  29. NortonG
    Joined: Dec 26, 2003
    Posts: 2,117

    NortonG
    Member Emeritus

    Got my front tires mounted...
     

    Attached Files:

  30. Beau
    Joined: Jul 2, 2009
    Posts: 1,884

    Beau
    Member

    I ended up bending my F! mounts the same as yours. I really like that look.

    Keep it up!
     

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