Projects The '23 Fake T Project...

I can't remember any time I've seen vertical steering on a T hotrod or race car...seems they were mainly on goofy T-Buckets. Course, I could be wrong....

Ah, I didn't bother to go looking at A kits. I just came across this when I was ordering some windshield parts for my truck, and thought it might work for what you had been talking about. It would be a novel idea...

 

[/QUOTE]I've often wondered who came up with the first vertical steering on a T hot rod/race car and why. Still don't know who but now I know why.[/QUOTE]

I agree on that one for sure.

Where the steering column enters the firewall isn't a problem at all.

 

Any pics?

 

^^^^ Check out my album and the Hot Rod Model T group. JW

 

26 T Ford RPU, I didn't see any pictures of your brake set up or pedals

 

We used footboards in the roadsters we have built. Gives your feet a more comfortable position. Factory cars since the first Ts have had 'em and they work well for that long haul driving in a little car.

 

I totally agree about the foot/toe boards. They really do let you rest your legs and ankles at a much more comfortable angle. But, since I can barely get my feet up to where they'd be going I doubt I'll put any in this car.

 

Goofy T's

Sorry my observation hurt your feelings. I'll try to stay out of your thread.

Gary

 

No feelings hurt here at all.

I've been staying away from the "typical T-bucket" look while putting this heap together.
That should be pretty clear to see with the proportions and stance it has thus far in the build.

I really dig those roundy round cars a bunch and they usually had their steering boxes mounted that far back because the motors were mounted so low that the box would've been in the same space as the head/motor block. Don't forget also that those are for the most part single seaters.

I'm adding this.. As for the vertical steering position thing. I do think it's kinda goofy.
It also pushes the look of a T to that of a "fad T" and not that of an earlier plain old T roadster or RPU.

 

My foot boards are in the original position and uses a 39-48 master cylinder and it has a 17 inch steering wheel. When I got it I had a lot of trouble with my right knee getting hooked under the wheel when using the brakes. The seat base was too low so raised it 2" and raised the column as far as I could so my knuckles just missed the wind shield but still had a slight knee to wheel problem. I then had the seat back narrowed to 2'' thick as I sat me too far forward and that works for me and my wife, just. Its not all about ones feet but getting stuck under the wheel in an emergency stop situation.

 

I think I gotcha now. Your knee was hitting the underside of the wheel when you were putting your foot on the brake, right?

My knees are more beside and behind my steering wheel with where the column is.
I can steer with my hands resting on the tops/sides of my knees.
It's rather comfortable so far. We'll se what happens when I get driving it.

That's also why I'm going to be adjusting my column forward and back and I can make the upper shaft longer really easily with the 3/4"DD shaft that I'm using.

Lots of fine tuning to make big guys fit in little cars, haha

 

Cool to know you have it sorted out, another issue I had was I couldn't put my knee to the side of the wheel due to the shifter. Keep up the good work. JW

 

I wouldn't say I've got it completely sorted out but I try to have the odds stacked in my favour.

My leg is right up against the shifter right now as well.
It might get a hot wrench work out..

 

You know Norton. I like what your doing and I know the look your trying to stay away from. Although I don't think vertical steering shafts has anything to do with the Goofy look of T's. I just hate to see you beat your head against the wall and come up with something that is going to be in your way from now on when their might be a better and easier way. "You really don't have to reinvent the wheel". Sorry for that. That is all my post was about.
Gary

 

sometimes people don't realize they are overthinking and miss the simple solutions?

 

body to engine ratio

 

There you go! The easiest way to go mid-engine, push out the front wheels. But why is it rolling out of the photo? Gary

 

I know I'm not over thinking anything and I know I'm not building a t-bucket...




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Just a quick plug for Matt (Gear Drive), but I bought his headers and later bought his baffles. Well worth the money to avoid the headache of building my own. I grabbed some glass from the local motorcycle shop for $8.00 and mounted them up.

Car is looking GREAT man!



'27 T Roadster build: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=734383

 

Thanks!

Matt (www.lakeheaders.com) makes a great product! But at $155 for the pair of baffle kits, I know I can source and build my own for about a quarter of that cost. Never mind the duty for bringing them across the border to Canada if I do order them from him.
Building my own shouldn't be too much of a headache at all. I've built pretty much everything else so far, hahaha.

 

I took a $20 resonator blank and cut it in half. Took the resonator tube out and stuck it in my header. Made a huge difference on the sound. Sounded great. Never did install them but would be pretty easy to do.


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Exactly Shawn. It's simple stuff that works and is easy to build. It's not hard.
This early 60s block with double hump heads and the driveshaft cone exhaust would've been a bit too loud for the local fuzz without the baffles.

 

I can't wait to get the shorter front tires on there and maybe a dropped axle!




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...looks damn sweet, Dave. Baffles? We used short motorcycle baffles in my pipes....takes the sharp 'crack' out of the sound and still sounds great...no need for a radio with a flatty.....

 

Lookin good man! I've made baffles many times from just a hunk of 1"-ish tubing... slice a bunch of slits in it all over, drive the same leading edge of each one into the tube with an air chisel... takes like 10 minutes, costs pennies, works perfect.

 

This is really turnin out sweet!

 

What are you going for? In the pics, it looks like a nice start to a T bucket.

 

Lookin' good as usual! I don't know how much you care for the look but I swept my front frame legs, Doane Spencer style, which really puts me in the weeds with a stock Model "A" axle. I also like that it sets the engine visually lower in the frame so it looks less "set on top". Simple and cheap. My two favorite things.

 

I see the finished product looking more like a cross between these two old builds,

 

Oh man, you should totally add a roll bar!