Im going to swap out a 235 that was retro fitted into my 48 chevy stylemaster with a rebuilt 216. The 216 was assembled on an engine stand, tuned up, leaks stopped up, and it is truly ready to go in. Im going to try and remove the 235 today, and I hope to take some photos and post my progress, as I go. Reading about others who have done the swap, they say it is a direct bolt out/in job. Looking at the motor mounts, I see each has a different style mounting bracket at the bell housing. However, the bolt-holes locations on the bell-housing appear to be the same? The transmission bracket looks like it will swap off nicely, and shouldnt be a problem. However, the front mounts are not on the engine (that is in the car) as it is bolted directly to what looks like a steel plate that was welded in? Another noticeable difference is the size of the harmonic balancer. It is much larger on the 235 engine. Im hoping, the chassis is made for the 216, and it will probably fit better than the 235. I think I may have to grind out the plate that is welded to the front and use the standard motor mounts? Perhaps someone may be able to tell me more, or perhaps help me with any future issues I may run into later on. The H.A.M.B. has been invaluable to me, and any advice, or insight to what is going on, or what problems I may run into, or other issues will be greatly appreciated! It doesnt look like it is going to be a simple bolt in/out to me? Thanks!
Personally I can't quite comprehend why one would want to pull a pressure oiling engine out of a car and swap back a babbit rod engine that used dippers to oil the rods. I can see it if the car is being restored to show perfect 100% stock to try to win restored carshows but one looses too much in the way of reliability and driveability with the swap in my estimation. This is after all a hot rod board that is about power and speed rather than having a vehicle be "all original".
Fair enough, but the 235 I’m taking out, will be rebuilt next, and re-installed into the car. The 216 rebuild can be thought of as an exercise in futility. I plan to sell the car with a spare-engine. I didn’t know the H.A.M.B. was only for Hot-Rods? Yikes! I hope I'm not breaking the rules somehow? 216 dippers vs 235 full pressure is not that relevant here in my opinion. The 216 has journal bearings installed, and with a properly working and aligned oiling system, dependability should be just fine. I’m told not to expect more than about 50,000 miles between overhauls with either motor. My next project desire is to build a ’36 Ford 5-window coup as a sleeper. Certainly, I will be putting something that kicks-ass under the hood. The front end will be updated for better suspension and brakes. And, I hope to even have air-conditioning and power steering onboard. The challenge will be, just how do I hide it all. I have nothing against Hot-Rods, that’s for sure! Some fantastic knowledge lurks in the halls of the H.A.M.B. I suppose if I’m really that far off topic I should find another forum, but I love this place! People such as yourself have been helpful in ways I can’t even describe! All input, whether I like it or not, has value and I thank everyone for their thoughts! There are many paths to travel on this road IMHO.
Your 48 came with a 216 in it. So that said, if the 216 you are putting in has the front mount, everything should bolt it.
Thank fordcraiger! Yes it did come standard with a 216. However, I hope to soup up the 235 and install it back in eventually. Right now, there is a different problem. I did find something odd at the front of the engine. A plate was welded to the frame and the 235 engine was bolted directly to it. (See illustration) I think I know why. It is sort of a catch 22 up there. If you put on the harmonic balancer first, you cant get at the bolts to mount the engine. If you put the bolts on first, you cant put on the harmonic balancer. The harmonic balancer on this 235 is much larger than the 216 and I think that is the problem? So, what I think they did was bolt the engine to the plate first, put on the harmonic balancer on the engine (out of the car), dropped in the motor and then welded the plate to the frame? I was pure hell trying to get it all apart again. 1/8 turn on the bolt at a time! When loose enough could raise front of engine just enough to remove harmonic balancer. Question: I wonder if I can grind off the plate, and just use the standard rubber-mounts? I sure hope so. Wouldn't that be best? Anyone know?
Yes, get that plate off there. Under it you should find holes in the frame where the stock mounts will go. On top they will go into the holes on the sides of the mounting flange on the plate under the timing cover. That mount setup is truly a mongrel rig. Could/would you put up a picture of the timing cover and mount plate setup on the motor??? I'm curious as to what they did. There appears there is no rubber in any of it.
I think that the amount of inline info on here is great .I have a 40 Chev moore door with a 216 in it .I read every thread that comes up about them .Some of you guys have a great deal of knowledge on the subject .Thanks to all that post here .
Question: The front motor-mount issue is solved, it is the rear mounts that concern me now. (The ones that have perches that hangs of the bell housing) I’m not sure what should be there? Right now it has biscuit type rubbers. (See sketch) It doesn’t look anything like the ones in the manual, or the ones they say belong there from the parts supplier catalog? Does anyone know what the is suppose be there? Thanks!
Based on the situation you had on the front mount, whoever did the changeover, probably made whatever they had work. That might explain why you rear mounts are different. It's been a while since I've been under my 47, so I'm not sure what those mounts look like.
Thanks Craiger – I have looking everywhere for some additional information and perhaps some good photos of what the bell-housing-mounts should be. No luck so far! At least nothing that looks like my get up. Homeboy? CAD? To funny! Quick and dirty illustrations are great for letting others see what otherwise would take oodles of words to describe. Geesh…Using Windows-Paint, it is more like a crayon sketch on a napkin. (However, I do own AutoCAD and a license for Pro-Engineer, but are far to detail orientated and time consuming.) I also say with a bit of humor, "It also helps those who can’t read so well…lol" Well I got to keep looking and asking around. My hope is, I can use the biscuit mounts I have… Thanks!
Thanks jcmarz! Yep that's the arrangement alright! I also found this illustration sort of in the same place. (see photo) I can buy this get-up, from Chevy's of the 40's, and I'm going to try it. Looks like it just might work? http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/1929_57chevyparts/57cmpc0129.htm
I think you will find the 235 is shorter mount to mount which explains the wierdness you are seeing in the front motor mount. You should be okay with the stock mounts once you clear the mods made to get the front 235 mount to work.
Thanks Dane, I have two sets of perches of different types that mount on the bell-housing. I have only one type pf perch that mounts to the frame. I hope that one combination of them will work with standard mounts? I guess, I will find out soon enough! Thanks!
Gee - Whiz What is wrong with a period correct 216 build? Why he might split the exhaust the way it was done back then.
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