Now that sir is just pure hot rod and pure Sex! Your a very skilled man with the right eye to detail. [emoji106][emoji122][emoji122][emoji122]
Thanks for the info. Either I forgot that, or did not know. I do recall taking pics of all the inputs lined up when I had a 37 and a 50 from a local elder that ran at the old airport drags in the 50s. I think I recall a noticeable 45 degree chamfer of the front of splines. My 37 had a syncro cage that fell apart, and I think it's maybe one year only? I used a 50 synco but that forced me to use the mating 50 input, AND then the 50 syncro size made me need to use the 50 2nd gear...arrrg. I never developed a good vibe on LaSalles, and find them to harder to work on and source parts like the one-year candlestick, etc. But that skinny rounded main case top sure can make nice room for the heel of your foot on the gas pedal. all this info is getting lost to the ages it seems. .
Frank, I misspoke, the LaSalle input shaft is not longer but it needs about a quarter inch more room or a chamfer in the pilot bearing, the Olds input has a flat step at the end of the splines whereas the LaSalle is chamfered with a shorter bearing surface at the pilot.
the projected 3 hour job turned out to be 4-1/2 hours. it shifts nice and moves under it's own power. only drove it about 50 feet and back at an idle, still no throttle pedal yet. but I do have a plan in my head for one now.
Ok. I can run a Ford pattern long pressure plate with an IH disc and a cad throw-out bearing with mine, right? I have a side-shift cad box with the steel flywheel and bell housing I got from you.
Summit lists it as "not available", is that a clutch and diaphragm pressure plate? A couple other websites list it, and a couple others list it as back ordered, looks like a good possibility they aren't making it anymore. The only other 1.25x10 spline 11" disc summit lists is a McLeod race disc with an unsprung hub and no marcel, that's a non-starter for a comfy street rod with tall tires and a 3.78 rear gear...
1-1/4" 10 spline 11" was used in '87-'94 Ford F Series trucks somebody has them... here's one, price has gone up.. http://www.sfxperformance.com/parts/CFC381040.htm
put a throttle pedal together today, laid it all out on poster board to check geometry, dug through my junk pile for rod ends and some bits of scrap metal, I wanted to use a regular gas pedal, I have a nice NOS piece but it wasn't to be.. so.. I stole a spoon from the kitchen and chopped off the business end, to use for the business end, cut, grind, weld, drill and bolt, and now have a right foot to four carburetor connection. drove it around the block a couple times, action and ratio are just about ideal
also started to do something with the top of the steering column, I'm using a wheel made by our very own Kevin Lee. it mounts to a typical three bolt aftermarket adapter. my F1 column didn't have a top bell so I went to the grocery store and bought some measuring cups, the half cup size looked like the least amount of work to fit, so I removed the handle and used a hole saw to make a hole for the column to poke through. 'need to figure a clean way to attach it but here it is taped in place..
You'm a gert talented gent ain't ya?! Excellent ideas and well thought out from design through to construction... Not that you need it ideas but....how about sprung bent tabs to fit the column top the steering wheel? Jay
I'll stew on it for a bit, not really high priority right yet. I did pull the valve covers to adjust the valves, saw evidence of at least four rockers touching the covers.. I don't think any damage was done to the valve train and the chrome still looks good on the outside of the covers but definitely left marks on the underside of the covers. adjusted all the valves, they were fine, maybe a touch tight on a couple, .018 intake, .02 exhaust. swapped out the dimpled covers for the Holmes with breathers. I wanted to use the dimpled covers, thought it odd that the Isky rockers hit the (Isky) covers.. but gotta do whatcha gotta do.. tried my uni-syn carburetor tool, I don't know why I even keep that damn thing it's a piece of junk.. so I adjusted the carbs by ear and eye. same with the timing, by how it sounds and feels.
Paul, do you have a shot bag or sand bag? Why don't you try hitting the underside of the valve covers where the witness marks are with a round nose punch on a bag? Use a punch or make one that is a good match for the radius on the backside of the clearance bumps. Go easy, and you can possibly gain enough clearance to run them without damaging the chrome? Or double up on the gaskets?
Yeah, I thought about doubling up the gaskets, not going to beat on them though, tough to find them in this nice of shape, Even now with witness marks.
ditto on that uni-syn! Never could get it to work like the video showed. It has sat on the shelf now for 5 years.........
drove around a bunch today, making minor adjustments to carburetors and timing all by ear. 'first time trying to tune four 97's naturally aspirated only other time I ran four Strombergs was on a blower, a little different here, but it's getting closer all the time.
behaving better all the time, starts easy, idles good, has never overheated, inside tailpipe is turning from black to grey second set of plugs looks very good, changed out the oil a tank ago and it looks good too, clutch behaving nicely. I tried to make a video of driving around town, but it was during rush hour, so it's far too boring to even upload. I'll try again tomorrow on a back road or two
just watched it for the first time, seventeen and a half minutes of quick-change whine and sheet metal rattle.. If that's not enough incentive to put a few screws and sound deadener in then I don't know what is..
Watch out for the 5-Oh! Lol thanks for the ride Sent from my iPod touch using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Paul, I only heard one gear change to bring it up to cruising speed. Were you starting out in second gear, or maybe the speed shift was undetectable? HA! Thanks for the ride!
The Jalopy Journal
