When I purchased this I knew it needed a lot of work and my ambition got the better of me. I wanted to make this car right and for the price (2500$) I paid for it I felt like the learning experience would be worth it. But the more I work on her the more I find stuff I find wrong. I don't understand how people can do work like this and feel that it is ok. But at the end of the day I have it and it's time to fix it. Here are some pictures of the motor mounts they uses. They cut out 1/4" diamond plate and welded it to the frame. So I need help making this right. I will be pulling out the motor and I will be purchasing the motor mounts from buches cool stuff. Any help is greatly appreciated thank you in advance
You could do what I do. Buy some beer and invite your friends over to help. Makes a ****ty job enjoyable and if your friends are like mine they stick with it until it's done. Good luck!
Helped a guy with this swap on another forum a while back on a '53 notice that Butch's lists two different kits so be sure and take the measurements to see if you need the 15" or the 17" kit he had an issue with water pump to radiator clearance so he used the early 1965-69 "short" pump as shown it the "FAQ" link up top. The HEDMAN 88400 headers cleared better than the stock manifolds by the steering box the way they "hacked" yours the heat probably would have shortened the life of the box.
Thanks What are the measurements I need to take to know what kit I need to order? I emailed butches a little bit a ago and explained my situation to them hopefully they get back to me
Click on this to see an installed SBF in a '53 using Butch's kit http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/faq-sticky.897329/page-4 go to post # 104 Click on this: http://www.butchscoolstuff.com/52-53-ford-car-15-sb-ford-engine-transmission-mount-kit-2501cpb/ The illustration on the right shows how to measure..so check both the 15" and 17" and compare them this also will determine which oil pan you will use.
Now that I know it's 15" and have ordered the motor mounts is it the dual sump oil pan from a fox-body Mustang that I need?
What oil pan do you have now and where is the dipstick located ? He used a dual sump oil pan with a dipstick provision in it,earlier 351W's had front sump pans and dipstick in the timing cover.
This is the problem I have with my current oil pan. Does this mean I have to move the motor forward a little bit? Or would using a different oil pan be better? I am planning on replacing the oil pan either way. I am pulling the motor this week.
Hard to tell in your picture,but 351W's in bigger trucks and vans had larger sumps is your drainplug in the same location as this one ? http://www.ebay.com/itm/OIL-PAN-8-3...ash=item41b05ffe26:g:L6YAAOSw-itXrJdH&vxp=mtr This pan appears to have a smaller sump http://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-351w-R...ash=item41b0a15c60:g:UJIAAOSwdzVXsMfG&vxp=mtr And is the same as this Ford pan used in swaps: http://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-NEW-For...ash=item3a99b67764:g:VooAAOSwPe1T~gbg&vxp=mtr Which is along the lines of what Butch's recommends with their kit.
Front-sump for sure... I did that with my SBC swap. I saw someone else do one with a rear-sump... pan & butchered the carp out of it.
Hi fellas sorry for being MIA. Been super busy lately. I hav pulled the motor from my car and I am in the process of getting it rebuilt. This is the oil pan I have. I will be purchasing a fox body oil pan like butches cool stuff suggest using. Jeffb2 do you know what radiator the guy you helped with this swap ended up using??
In regards to the radiator because of the length of the 302-351 I advised him to use the shorter 1966-69 early water pump this gains about 3" in clearance see the picture below note that the lower hose will then be on the p***enger side.The 1970 and later "long" pumps are on the drivers side so this will have a bearing on which radiator you get. The early pump will require the matching harmonic balancer and pulleys contact me here for part numbers and sources.Click on my name and conversations.
The Jalopy Journal
