The Banger is dead - long live the Banger. 2010's first banger thread

It cost money it have fun. and it looks like you had lots of fun. I hope you only need one engine this year
Bill

 

Ok guys- anyone close to Atlanta? I am trying to do the wiring on my speedster and I am SOOOOO lost! Wiring is not my specialty.

 

thanks guys for all your pms and support i have been given a couple of names to checkout both known to me yes i have been accused of hording or not getting things done fast enough however i have kept my RP on the road for 40 years with its b motor [its a 27 tee on an A chassis] its always been a dream to rebuild it with a overhead valve engine B converted of course an have been very near the banger show next weekend was to be the big reveal saddly the overhead wont be on . I have organised the show so its a huge disapointment some years ago i lost my partner to a heart attack also my home due to a legal complication and a former husband still i got back on my feet and this was to be my celebration to myself then some bastard steals it away from me a bit hard to take still wat is it they say dont get angry get even so i guess thats wat i do either by finishing this thing or finding this lowlife getting older now but nothing like a fire in ya belly eh thanks again guys

 

Ha ha ha... Of course I had fun. I had a great time. Well the crank broke 300 miles away from home. At that time I was a bit pissed.

 

FYI on the Willys dizzy. The four banger was a 134 and is basically the same from the Willys days in the 20's up to the 60's Jeeps. It came as a flathead and an F-head version from the factory. If you want measurements let me know, I have willys bangers and model A.

Jeff

 

I had the same thing happen to me, nearest I could tell was the front roller bearing "exploded", snapped the housing down the center leaving the big gear cluster dangling.

 

Magnus, That hill climb looks like a bunch of fun,too bad about your motor. I have a loud cluncking in the rear-end of my roadster from doing looies in my yard. Not as fatal as your motor, it was fun while it lasted!

 

Here's one I did. Hope you can see it. What did you do for your tie rod?

 

Magnus your car was hauling! That hill climb does look awesome! i bet that was a blast...

 

Hey folks. I'm looking for a little advice on aftermarket high compression heads for my model a . Just sold my banger powered hot rod and bought a 30 coupe, bone stock.
My last car's engine was basically a bone start banger that was very peppy but only made me want to start building one a little healthier. I want to hop it up and was thinking about the Winfield 6:1 repop head, single 97 and a b grind cam. That is about my budget for speed parts. I'll be freshening up the engine with some new valve springs etc.. since its been sitting for a while.
I tried to search to see if there has ever been a comparision of the available aftermarket heads, but frankly I'm still not sure. Any advice or criticism of my plan is appreciated. Thanks -Adam

 

Its not hard to make my jeep distributer fit I just wonted to know if its worth the time.

 

There are several different options with different advance mechanisms and other changes. The '009' seems to be the most readily available unit and the only one I've ever played with so I'll direct you here: http://www.aircooled.net/gnrlsite/resource/articles/distributor.htm
lots of information on the aircooled distributors

 

BANGER ?(S) ANSWERED BELOW http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=16149
BANGER ?(S) ANSWERED BELOW http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=161498

 

^^^Thankyou

 

Sounds good. I can't find fault in any of it. Just a couple of additional things that wont cost too much. Adjustable lifters and .25" spacers under the springs.

.

 

robt500,

Thanks for the link!

 

For anyone who gets Secrets of Speed Magazine, my car and I made the front cover on the January issue.

http://jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=437162

 

Check out these Dyno runs, lots of info here to compare.

http://www.modelaparts.net/dynosheets.htm/dynosheets.html


Make sure you scroll all the way to the bottom..there are about 30 dyno results there.

 

Who does good Model A machine work in Nor Cal. ????????????? What to put together a hot flat head motor, no overhead. I'm going backwards, taken the sbc out of my 28 roadster pu..............The banger is way more fun.

 

STAN VERMEIL ..... nevada city ....... 530-265-8766 . call between 1pm & 5pm only , monday-friday ...................... best there is !............... steve

 

I doubt spacers under the springs would be required for this combination unless you feel the need to practice pulling and replacing the valve springs. I don't see the benefit of adding to the parasitic drag and wear unless necessary. Although it is not that difficult I would suggest running and if you find the valves are floating then add the spacers. Regarding the head I would go for the "Crows Foot" as offered by Antique Auto. IMO. If you can't find them just google Antique Auto Parts, Rosemead ca.

 

For those of you with fuel pumps and high compression bangers...6 volt or 12? Seems like 12 would be the more likely choice for starter and fuel, but I'm trying to stay as true to the 28 as possible.

 

12 Volts is fine, just make sure to leave the 6-volt starter in there so it will spin over faster.

 

You are correct about the reason #3 cylinder is retarded, but it is the cam that is asymmetrical. The cap being so would have no effect at all.

While on the VW dizzy subject--if you ever get one that runs fine up to a certain RPM (3500, I think) and refuses to go faster, you might have a rotor from a VW industrial engine, which has a centrifugal device built into it to limit RPM


Herb Kephart

 

i run a 4 banger , warmed up , 2 strombergs , gravity feed with no problems ! .... 6v system ..... all stock ......... steve

 

Hello all

I have a question regarding full pressurized oil system in a B-block. I have read that the oil tubes should be exchanged since the stock ones have a seam that could break. The question is, has that ever happened? I took one tube out of a junk block and tried to break the seam. I took a center punch with a nice conical shape, stuck it in the tube and tried to expand the tube. It was first of all very hard and when it finally split open it didn't split in the seam.

Not that it's hard to change the tube. I just took a pushrod from a Studebaker I had and put in. Seems to fit nice and all. But is it really something that needs to be done? I'll try to split open the pushrod to see if that seems stronger.

//Magnus

 

well i decided to go with a Thomas head, got it in the mail last week along with some other goodies, i cleaned everything up and it's ready to be put on bu ti have a couple questions first... i was told by an old dog about reaming out the stud holes in an aluminum head to fit a copper tube in it so the stud wouldnt "rust" to the aluminum, he had a helluva time getting his off after a couple years... i'm thinking a thin coat of liquid anti-seize on the studs would do the same, do you think it could screw up the gasket, it's high heat, high quality stuff and it's pretty thick? and also, i saw the "head saver" that Snyders offers, is that a good idea to put in too?... i mean for 7 bucks i wouldnt think it would hurt?

 

Question regarding JUICE drums on a stock A rearend. Ive heard the drums need to be machined to fit, is this true? How do I run them on my stock axle? After seing CHRIS' post regarding the juice conversion in TECH WEEK, its really got me leaning towards doing this on my pickup. Thanks in advance fellas.

 

On the galvanic scale only zinc ,magnesium and Beryllium are less noble than aluminum
copper is way at the other end of the scale so the copper will not corrode, but the aluminum will give itself up to protect the copper!!! The copper sleeve will galvaically "weld" itself to the head.... sure it will be easier to get the head off , but there will be hidden corrosion .


Use a zinc anode (head saver) in the water system and ground your engine and generator, battery properly to the chassis to avoid stray current corrosion( similar to galvanic corrosion , but even more deadly.

You can check for a galvanic cell regularly with a multimeter between the ally head and the chassis .....any voltage there and you will need more sacrifcial anode(s) or less if the current is flowing the other way ...just make sure the head is not the anode. Avoid copper head gasket.

Search the web for galvanic corrosion and stray current corrosion for more info...

 

This will help...
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=124112&highlight=46+48+brakes+model

Enbloc did a real nice job with the brakes
later Bill