The Banger is dead - long live the Banger. 2010's first banger thread

BANGERS never die !!!! takes peeps like us to keep em goin ...

... steve

 

Riley carbs are not made for street use, they were made to run alky on the track and don't usually do too well on gas and/or the street.

 

i run dual 81's and my b likes them. i have had some running problems lately but it turns out to be plugs. i have decided that champion plugs are not any good. we'll see how the new autolites do but i suspect they will be much longer lasting!

back to the carbs. cfm wise i think a single 97 is a bit small if you wind the engine up much. just my $0.02

 

on the 81's , try lowering the floats just a little . cleaned mine right up ! .. steve

 

Beautiful sedan Steve, I've seen a few of those Zepher intakes around lately, when were they manufactured?

 

I'm going to get some help this week and strip Mrs B's Miller

Hope to start posting photos again.

Film at 11

 

Looking forward to it!!!

 

yeah, i may have to just go with two 81's

i agree, havent heard very good things about champion plugs .... well, from what i have heard 2 81's shouldnt be too much carb for a stock motor as long as the right jets are in it, and it will allow me to do more later as i hop up the motor one piece at a time

 

Just prepare to pay for them stupid things. 81's are not the cheapest carb.

 

yeah, i hear that, i actually talked to a guy that has a couple he is willing to sell me for 400 each, they are in great shape and have been been completely rebuilt, i figure i'm savin 50 bucks getting an 81 versus a new 97

 

400.00 for a completly rebuilt, bolt on ready to run carb sounds decent. Cores go for more then half that. Still...800.00 for a couple carbs sounds nuts to me!

I'd keep an eye out for nice cores and rebuild em yourself. I bought both mine for 150.00 each, and kits were about 50.00 each.

 

yeah that's not bad, i have 2 good 48 cores, i may see if i can do some swappin!

 

donrodin,
Tell us more about your engine.

Is it stock with a stock head?
If so, even two 81's will be a little over carbureted. One 97 would be as much as I would put on a stock banger.

To really make good use of dual carbs, you need to bump the compression with a good head.

Remember the first steps to a better banger: (in the following order)
1) High Comp head. ( 6:1 min. for two carbs)
2) more carb (carbs, see above)
3) Better cam with adjustable lifters that have a base of at least 1.125" dia. (stock B is good Winfield SU1A is max for the street also add spacers under the valve springs to bump the seat pressure up to @ 60 lbs.)

This doesn't have to break your savings account.

If you are building a new engine and having machine work done. Think bigger intake valves.

If you are hopping up a runner. Take the valves out and smooth the area between the stem and the seat surface. There is way too much material there that interrupts the flow in and out of the engine.

.

 

thanks, i appreciate the advice! well, it's stock for now, i plan on having a 6.5:1 head in about a month, but i may just get a single carb intake and when i decide to go to 2 i'll throw the single on my other car. the only good looking single intake out there i could find was the Ansen that Sacramento Vintage Ford has, at least to my liking. i assume a fuel pump will be needed too?

 

I have 29´ Model A engine whit babbit bearings and stock oil system.
Valves are going to be 1.7" and 1.5" Camshaft is grinded for better performance. I have single intake and Stromberg 97.

I was thinking about head, I think i go for Brumfield Super Head but is 7:1 compression ratio too much? Is it lot of safer for babbits if i take 6.5:1?

Suggestions are welcome!

 

Zepher intakes around lately, when were they manufactured?
i dont know . if you find out , let me know . my 2 carbs are the first 2 barrels , EE-1 .


Brumfield Super Head but is 7:1
ask around before you put 7/1 on babbitt . the 5.5 police head shaved .050 is a good 6/1 head

.......................... thanks .. steve

 

Thanks RAT,
Anyone else have info on the Willys Banger?

Jeff

 

Update and a couple more pics. No diamond at the water pump boss. Curious if the 2 nubs are a clue. What would they have been for?





Cleaned up the date code area I think? 3 - 9 ? March of 1939 perhaps. Thanks all!

 

I passed on one for 300 on sunday it was real nice but then I would have to find a twin to it

 

This is the first thread I look for each new month, a wealth of information, will try and contribute in the future but have a couple of questions for now.

While inspecting the valve galleyon my A banger engine I noticed a obstruction in the center oil supply tube and removed this. Does anybody have a clue why it would be there? It is steel 5/8" long x 1/4"in dia with a .040 hole in the top. Possible oil restrictor?

One other question on the Ford rearend I have, the cover suggest a 8.8" but the tag says its a 7.5" 2.73 ratio model year 87, could Ford have put 7.5" gears in 8.8" housings? Thanks for the assistance.

Thanks Mike

 

I wouldn't run Riley's on the street. I have 3 sets of the 2" and one set of the 1 1/2" , and they are made to run full out, no idle jets. And they run better on fuel. I have never run mine,but I may at Bonneville some time.--TV

 

Your build sounds good to me. Single 97 might be a little under carbureted. 7:1 is tops for an A with babbit, but you must remember to drive it responsibly. I would switch to a B distributor or an aftermarket distributor with an automatic (centrifugal) advance. don't let the timing to advance more then about 28 deg. total advance.

You may find that this combo will want to ping or detonate when under load. Do not lug it. Do not mash the throttle going up a hill under load. when in doubt drop a gear. These engines are not like modern engines.

.

 

Jim,
Thanks for the follow up pictures. I haven't a clue what your head came off of. The lack of Ford specific markings would lead me to believe that it came from a tractor or industrial use engine.

I'd be interested as to what the chamber volume was.

.

 

Maybe next weekend I'll CC it compared to a couple other heads around here. I have a bunch of stock heads, and an aluminum one that is supposed to be a Winfield 7:1 copy. I got the aluminum one from Mitch Plumley over in Whittier and he told me what it was, but I've forgotten already. No markings at all, looks totally stock Model A on top.

 

You have a 7.5 rear, suspect from a mustang. They look similar to an 8.8

 

I've been having a hard time getting my coupe engine not to ping. I have an early Mallory on it with mechanical advance like stock. It just pings constently and I'm affraid of hurting the poor thing. I am looking for a regular Mallory with centrifugal advance. I love the dizzy thats on there now, but I've tinkered with it long enough and can't seem to figure it out.

I run the shit outta my coupe, and I am getting more and more leary of doing that All the banger gurus warn you gotta play nice with these things

 

Happy new year everyone! great thread so far!

Nothing new on my end, just snow...

 

Mike thats a rear out of a 6 cyl mustang. The 8.8's came in the 5.0's, as you found out they look similiar

 

So I have a question about babbit. Has any one ever really pushed the limits with poured babbit bearings? I have been told that it can be done and it cant be done. When I say push the limits I mean 5000+ rpm, 9-10:1 compression ratio, i.e. full race motors. What is the difference between a poured babbit bearing and and insert bearing, besides convienence and ease of changing out. Isnt an insert bearing just spun babbit with a metal backing? If you had a motor that was "full pressure" oil system with poured babbit bearings do you think it could handle the extreme pressures from a race motor? My understanding is that insert bearings are more reliable and have more long term durability, but for a race motor you dont need long term durability.This is just something I have been curious about, kinda food for thought.

Mike

 

Most shell bearings area tri metal bearing. They have different metals in them and are a lot harder then the babbit material. Babbit is super soft, take a screwdriver and you can just dig at it with your hands. So the force of that compression and RPM will simply smear it around. I'm not saying it can't be done, but think on something like an A with only 3 mains...that center main recieves a lot of force as most of the swinging load is put on it. I don't think it would take long to knock the babbit out.
If you wanna spend the money to make an all out race engine, I would go the extra mile and exspence and have inserts done.