The Banger is dead - long live the Banger. 2010's first banger thread

It seems that everyone has an opinion about babbit vs inserts, here is one from the F.A.S.T website:

http://www.hotforhotfours.com/babbiting.htm

 

When I read your post I had to check your join date. This is a subject that comes up quite often. J Brierley, who posts under 4 Port Riley on this forum, is the person you should ask this question as he has run as high a 12 to 1 with babbit. There has been a lot back and forth on the subject regarding materials,(metal), used. The "Skokie" "A" rods (Antique Engine Rebuilding) use a wide insert but it is only Tin over a Steel back and some have had problems with them. He states 8 to 1 compression and 28 degrees advance maximum. I recently purchased some NOS inserts for a Continental engine to modify and the top insert (I"m guessing on proper location) is a Clevite 77
tri metal and the bottom,FM, (Federal Mogul) appears to be a steel back with a "white metal" possibly tin or some alloy but definitely has no Copper.
As to durability I use inserts because wether you make 1 run or 100 you want everything to hold together and I can't repore babbit but I can replace an insert. H&H also makes a rod with wide inserts for the "A"
I wish I could find a good wide insert but I guess I will have to narrow what is available but they are getting very scarce as most of the "donor" engines are obsolete.

 

i have knocked out 2 center mains by running to much rpm . the crank starts to whip & eats the center main . now if you spend the time & money to counterweight & balance the ENTIRE assembly , babbitt may live longer , but not at constant high rpm's . 1800 rpm is the ideal rpm for long runs . for a "race only" motor that you will be taking apart alot , you can catch it before the babbitt totally dies .
i now have a great lil 4 banger that runs hard , cruises good & rpm is not a real concern . inserts +++++++++ ! awesome lil motor now ! .. steve

 

The crank doesn't eat the main it is the movement of the cap if you are using the stock center main cap. If so that is probably your problem. It's not the strength of the cap material but that it can move. The early racers would make bolts with a slightly larger diameter and would "force fit" them through the cap and a slight portion of the block so no movement was possible but most now prefer larger, heavier center and front main caps with hollow dowels for location.

 

really ! ive always been told the crank will whip at rpm (only 3 mains). so its the main cap causing the problem ! thank you bill ..................... steve

 

Shiny/TBone thanks for the responce, I was told that it was from the Mustang, am Banger powdered so am not worried about it getting broke.

Thanks Mike

 

bluto,
good to see you post again. get well and if it's not tooooo much of a strain....we would like to see pics of the miller!

 

If you had a set of nice billet main caps do you think you could get away with more rpm? Or some how reinforced the stock caps (i.e. welded a strongback to them)

 

If the radii on your crank have been ground away you'll loose the crank no matter what else you do.

 

nice bottom end . ................... steve

chevy rear main machined to fit ....

 

I should have clarified when I said originally put together. This is a shortened 1931 roadster body on a 1937 Willys frame and running gear that was put together in 1946. It had the Hickey head but originally had a Graham SC. It ran at Muroc in 1947 and set the record for its class. When my friend, Mel, acquired it he took off the Graham and put on the Latham SC with a Woodworth carb on the Latham and a throttle body on the intake. An interesting setup.

 

Here's a different Model A Frame Plan

 

hey guys, was wondering what compression the cylinders should read on a stock A...i didnt take the time to search for this so if any of you know it off hand that's great, if not, dont worry about it i'll have to search for it but i'm just finishing up an adapter to fit my compression gauge and i'm gonna try and check all 4 tonight..

 

50-55#s . also with in 5# of each other . ................... steve

 

6.5 comp. head on a old stock engine
I had.... 130 30 125 120
^^^
OPPS Broke stock piston

 

I'm stuck with my Banger. I keep getting a back fire through the exhaust. Idles great but can't get it to smooth out with any acceleration to my dual 97s. I've swapped out ignitions and coils but no go.

Arrgh!

 

is this a stuble just off idle ? i lowered my floats a lil bit & all is well . they were at the correct 1/2" , but needed just a lil more ............ steve

 

well it took a while but now you can click on my avitar pic and look at the 2008 Bonneville trip. Be sure to read the comments under each pic. There's 4 banger stuff toward the end of the album.....TV's car and Mort's car...etc!

 

POPPING through the Exhaust you are RICH
might just be float level
go down 2 jet sizes at a time

POPPING through the carb you are LEAN
you can play with the choke to see if it will smooth out then add more jet

have fun
Bill

 

looks good! what tire sizes are you running?

 

HOLY CRAP..... My ass hurts just looking at you pics Glad you had a great time some day I will get out there
Thanks for posting Bill

 

thank ya! checked them about 2 hours ago..... the results were... 60 60 55 0.... so that's why it was running so rough . took a gander inside the spark plug hole and that pesky exhaust valve didnt wanna close for anything! so i gave her a tap and she went down. took the valve cover off and i'll get her freed up and ready to go tomorrow night!

that, my friend, is no fun at all

if the carb tinkering doesnt work, take a gander inside the spark plug holes to make sure the valves are closing, mine was doing a back fire noise through the exhaust and wasnt running smoothly, come to find out i had a exhaust valve sticking open, there wasnt a very big loss of power, that was the wierd thing.

 

Thats EXACTLY what I needed

Have a great day

 

Getting the 31 coupe ready for Autorama next month...I will make it (won't I???) Anyone else bringing a Banger to Detroit?

 

so my problem is that i'd like to have a winfield head and downdraft carb/carbs on by February for a indoor show (Motorama 1962) in indy, a very traditional show. the only problem is i cant find anybody that has any new winfield heads, they say they cant get any till march. so my question is does anybody know anyone that might have any left, i have a super winfield i could put on, but it's 8:1 and my engine is babbit and stock other than the carb, would it be ok to put the super winfield on for a couple months until i can get my hands on a lower compression (6.4:1) winfield head? i dont drive like a mad man either so i wont be pushing the engine hard, i would love to put it on but i dont want to screw up my motor just for a show.

 

Install the head with two head gaskets, that will lower the compression.

 

I would buy one of the new Thomas finned aluminum heads. I think they are better than the Winfields IMO. I think Snyders sells them as well as some of the other vendors like Sacramento Vintage Ford, etc.

 

Alright guys my first real post. Just picked up a 31 fordor. Me and my buddy got it to turn over but never tried to start it. I have a few questions. First do you think i should try to run it? Second is there any place I should be looking for cracks? Looked it over pretty good a did not see any. Lastly is there any good books on building an a banger and or a more traditional rod? Been reading all the great info. here and love seeing all the rods with out small blocks in them! Any thoughts or opinions appreciated.

 

most old barn finds do run ! clean & check fluids , double filter the gas , fire it up ! try to keep the rpm low & check for noises . mine was in a barn for 45 yrs , ran fine after the above . be sure to check the points for setting . les andrews & many others have good books out there . i have the red book by les (vol #1) , rebuilt my car from it !
............... steve