The Banger is dead - long live the Banger. 2010's first banger thread

I made a photo mock-up from my 1932 Model B with orginal engine and 1950's Hanomag blower (from a 2 stroke diesel tractor) and custom made carb.adapter plate with 2 Ford 8HA carbs. (6 cylinder late 40's/early 50's)
I don't really care about a lot more HP i just want it to look right and sound right.
What do you think will it run on a stock engine ?

 

I like Blowers
You might wont to turn your carbs so the floats work better
keep us posted
later Bill

 

what drives this blower ? if you change your plans , id make a deal with you for it ... steve

 

babbitt , ive been told that good babbitt has the correct amount & type of tin in it .... steve

 

On the front there a driveshaft with connection with two small bolts, that can easily be changed to a pulley. It's in the photos but hard to see.
At the moment i have no plans for selling it, but you never know.

 

thank you & ill be here ..................... steve

 

Drooling over the blower and the Model B but first I'd have to win lotto. Twice. Very neat stuff. Since blowers work best at high speed and stock Fords are generally averse to high speeds it might be the perfect solution to looks bad ass but isn't really doing much. I once knew a guy that had a little blower on a 1955 36hp Volkswagen. He did finally break it going too fast up hills.

 

I didn't win the lotto, the blower cost me 60 euros and the carbs 20 and 10 euro so altogether is still below 100 euro or just a little over 100 dollar.
They say i'm a lucky bastard
All were found here in Holland and the nice thing here is that not everybody knows what they are selling, the bad thing is there is not too much choice. (bought a complete 1932 hood recently for 60 euro, guy thought it was from a Model T)
BTW the 32 tudor didn't cost too much either and was also found in Holland (came from Denmark)

 

Ha ha. Everybody in USA knows to take the Model A price, double it and add a zero at the end. But luck is still luck no matter where you find it.

 

thanks, ill have to get back to you on that lol, i dont remember

 

FYI - Anyone in the Dallas / Ft Worth area who is interested in increasing horsepower in the Model A Ford, there will be a work shop put on by the Dallas Model A Ford Club (yeah. The stocker guys) on doing just that!

 

Hi, Banger Guys
I am have bad luck at plastigage the mains and rods on my 4-banger.
I pull the engine out to paint frame and clean and also paint engine, pulled
timing cover to find teeth missing form the timing gear so I open the whole
thing and found the distributor shaft hole was rusted bad the shaft was really
rusted.
So pull cleaned thing up and going to replace shaft and new timing gear.
As the engine was open I plastigage the main and rod to .001. After pastigaging the mains and torque them to 80 ft. lbs. I can not turn the crank, it as if it lockedup.
What did do wrong HELP HELP, Mike

 

is the whole motor new or did you just shim the rods/mains ? how far past 80# to line up cotter keys ?
ok , loosen one rod or main at a time & see if it gets better . be sure to retourque the ones you have checked as you go . or try .0015 on the bearings . lets see if that helps you ....... steve

 

Did you remove shims to reach the .001? Or is that what the clearance measured when you took it apart? If it is the first replace shims until you can turn the crank.

 

Did you spin the main caps 180?

 

Reddy,
Keep in mind that there is nothing to align the bearing caps to the crank journal on a stock A engine. When re assembling the bearing caps, you need to make sure the bearing caps on both the mains and the rods remain square to the other half of the bearing in the block. In other words the center line of the bearing cap radius must be inline with the center line of the half of the bearing that is in the block. It is easy to get the caps to twist. If they twist the bearing cap will bind on the crank shaft. when all is torqued down and there is no head on the block to create compression, it should not take much more then 35 foot pounds to turn the engine over.

.

 

the rod caps go on in the direction of sipn for the dippers . i marke the mains .. steve

 

IT was about .002 so I remove them till I got to .001

Mike

 

Should I have spin it 180 before plastiagageing the bearings?

Mike

 

I have posted my fathers truck a few times,its just a stocker but people love the way that 4 banger sounds,and always want a ride.....

 

Crazydaddyo

Who do check for this twisting of the bearing caps?
Mike

 

Wow gearhead614 thats a pretty good looking car, I've been around street rods my entire life and I've never had more fun with a car than one that has a banger motor in it, I hope you find your niche in them also.

 

no you dont have to turn it 180* unless you just want to . make sure your reading the p/g correctly . if its all new , it will be tight as a whores heart ............... steve

 

I have never been to the Auto Rama. What days does it run? Is there a site where you can get info on it? Your car looks really good and i would like to go over there and see more. normally I am going to motorcycle shows but this year i am going to save my money and be a little more conservative as to what bike shows and swap meets we go to and participate in.

 

I do the mains first. Make sure the crank is resting back against the thrust surface of the block half of the rear main. Use something to make sure the crank stays flush with that surface.

I start by snugging the rear main down so that the thrust surface of the bearing cap is flush up against the crank thrust surface. don't torque it to full torque yet. Maybe to about 35 foot lbs.

Now do the same with the center and front main caps. But with these I will use shim stock or feeler gauges on both sides of the bearing caps to center them between the throws of the crank. This will square the cap to the crank. The amount of shim should be about equal on both sides. With the cap loose but with the bolts in place and the nuts finger tight, slide the cap to one side (front or back) and use a feeler to check the total side clearance. Split that amount in half and put half on one end and the other half on the other side so that the shims hold the cap square to the crank. Once that is done you snug the bolts down to @ 35 foot lbs.

When all of the main bearing caps are snug like above, then you can torque the bolts to the 80 foot lbs. But before you start lining up the cotter pin holes, remove the shims that were used to keep the caps square and spin the crank to make sure it is not tight. If it is too tight, then you have a tight bearing and you will have to fix that before moving to the rods.

The rods are the same as the mains, but you only have to put shim on one side. But make sure the shim wedges both the rod and the rod cap against the throw of the crank. This will keep the rod and the cap square to the crank. As you assemble each rod, spin the crank to make sure each rod bearing is not too tight.

This has always worked for me.

Another way I was shown was with a soft face hammer. The process was as you snug the bearing caps, you tap the caps back and fourth until your sure the bearing is as loose as it can get. It is a sight and feel thing that is hard to describe. But you start by snuging the cap down, tap it with a soft face hammer while spinning the crank. You will feel the crank get tighter or looser as you tap. when it gets to the loosest point, you snug the bolts down a little more until you reach 80 foot lbs. on the mains and 40 foot lbs on the rods. Once the caps are torqued to these specs they shouldn't move or twist when you go to line up the cotter pins.

Does any of that make sense?

.

 

hey 29- that truck is great! I love it.

 

The engine in my RPU was taken right out of a 33 commercial truck running but mileage unknown. It had a good amount of blow by and smoke out of the exhaust.

I took the pan and head off to check the lower end. The mains were between .001" and .0015" for clearance. the rods were all .0015". I didn't adjust anything and proceded to clean and paint the block. The bores were worn to a nice shine, but no gouges. It was very apparent that the oil and blow by was coming from the rings and pistons. I didn't plan on this engine being in very long, so I left them alone.

I bolted a 7.65:1 Weiand head on it (I cc'd the head) and made a header and dual 81 intake for it. I put it in my car, about a year ago and it now has almost 4000 miles on the babbit lower end with out any adjustments and no bearing knock.

The insert engine that this engine replaced has less then 1800 miles on it and it has gone through two sets of inserts.

Babbit has been real good to me.

.

 

Thanks for the info CrazyDaddyo I hope to use it soon
Bill

 

I picked up a model A type halibrand case I need any info any one has on setting one up.
I need to find a lower shaft or make one. I was told I have to machine the ring gear. Is that true ? any one have a print? I looked for a old Thread but only found stuff on the V8
thanks Guy
Bill