The Banger is dead - long live the Banger. 2010's first banger thread

I would be careful using those cheap Taiwan regulators, they fall to bits and send your fuel pressure soaring........rich mixture at best ,but can run bearings and start fires etc .

 

I was told a 12v Carter P60430 (30gph) pump will run fine at 6v putting out (15gph).

This is a gear driven pump that would be running half speed.

It has a fuel filter attached and will tuck inside the frame rail.

 

On the big list... It worked fine for 2 years. It was the only one the parts store had at the time

 

Mine is a late 31 as well, but I can't see clearly how you are routing the fuel in that picture. I'm still using the valve on the tank that is in the engine compartment. How did you keep the fuel inside the firewall? Tap the take somewhere else and then route it back in to the outlet? Help me understand the picture.

 

I can finally join the Banger Club. Picked this little modified up a few weeks ago in a trade with my friend Rob. Took it for a drive in sunny Florida yesterday..... well 30* sunny Florida... It's a blast to putt past imports and all around the college here in town. I wouldn't want it any other way.[/url][/IMG]

 

Look for a Honda Accord pump, early 80's. Rated at 2.5psi IIRC. Bought mine at Autozone for $60-ish

There are a couple of different in/out configurations. This one is working for me. If you want more details search my name. I've posted PN's before, but don't have the info handy.

 

I have a fake fuel rail on the out side run all the pluming on the in side and back out the fuel rail I will try to find a pic.

 

Yup, I've been left by the side of the road by two of those little buggers...

 

What is the longest con rod anyone has used/made to a Ford B block?

 

Elrod...

 

I'd like to know this too!... and how's your back, Bluto?

 

Somebody on here was asking me about modifing a Pinto/VW distributer to fit a Plymouth PA/PB motor. I found these pictures of the distributer with the new bottom unit to fit the Plymouth. It's the one with the tang drive. The one with the gear is to fit a Dodge Bros four. The other picture is a stock VW dist. and machined to go into the Dodge lower.

 

Rich,

I understand that some of the VW distibutors have a delay for one part of the firing order... does the pinto suffer the same problem?
The VW was recommended to me for my '28, but to be aware of that delay...

 

I am not aware of any delay in the Pinto distibutor. When I had a Pinto in my roadster it would happly turn over 8000 rpm. So with the Plymouth in it that rarely saw 5000 I thought it would be allright. And I got the SCTA record certs to show it worked fine. I can't eyeball any offset on the VW dist. cam. Can't think of any other way to build in a delay and never heard of such a thing myself. Points and cap and all are the same between them. I guess if it turned out to be true I would have to scare up another Pinto part.

 

Here is my Banger... at the end of the video you can see a picture of the engine...



and a little video (cheesy production)... unfortunately I am not driving...
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STOVEBOLT...some of those bangers shown have more then $10,000.00 invested in those engines! man you folk's must realy love the banger thing! i'am just saying...POP.

 

Rich,

I'll have to look at my notes, but certain years of the VW distributor have the daley- will let you know tonight!

 

There were years I believe in the mid to late sixties that VW's had problems with one cylinder over heating. The fix was to retard one cylinder. This was done in the distributer at the point cam. Sorry, I don't know what years.

.

 

Thanks for the info. Never having been a VW owner I never heard of such a thing. I will have to see whats going on when I get the Dodge running. I guess if you have a VW and put the distributer in at a different location than factory, you would really screw things up.

 

That looks like a sweetie to me...i love the fordors too!

 

Thanks for the comments. I don't want to sell the lion head and it's the early one anyway. Most seem to like the later ones better. Not sure why. I want to test as many heads as I can when we start doing some of the flow bench work so I don't want to get rid of it. I don't know if I'll use it again or not. Supposedly it is the second one ever sold by Charlie Yapp.

The problem is that it has sharp edges in the chamber. Sharp edges are hot spots and hot spots are like having glow plugs in your combustion chamber that's lit up all the time. I think that if a person smoothed out the sharp edges it would make a big difference in the pinging ploblem. Some of my problem was in the distributor gear having too much slop in it too.

With that said...the head did run good though. It's a heavy sucker too. Bet it weighs 50 pounds!

 

Thanks Crazyd,

If I remember corrrectly, it's the post-38HP engine (which means that the only good distributors are the early ones)... but there's just too much info crammed into my feeble brain at the moment!

 

Isn't that what they call a fat prostitute?



.

 

LLLLLLOOOOOOOOLLLLLLLLL! well suck on this!

 

Thank you very much, I love the four door as well. I am finding it hard to make time to work on it these days.

 

I did find that the VW rotor has a built in resister. Looks like Pinto parts are a better choice. Harder to find.

 

... of course...

 

Ah. Got it. I was also considering the possibility of modifying the outlet on the late 31 tank. If the bottom of the outlet pipe was tapped in two spots, and a threaded plug was inserted into the outlet pipe about half way in, seperating the two tapped spots, you could do a similar thing, hiding the pump on the firewall like you did, but eliminating the fuel log.

 

This is for BCCHOPIT and any one else that might be interested in a snubber for the differential. I had always been told that the "A" rear end could handle anything up to 60 horse power. When I asked Joe Mac he said " Hell the "A" rearend was used in sprint cars" A few years later I had a conversation with Vic King and he told me of the problems they had with his dragster " Midnite Oil" destroying rear ends and breaking axles. His advise regarding axles was to relieve the center a slight amount and taper out to both ends then the axle acts like a torque bar and will flex or twist and return to normal after the load is reduced. As to the rear ends he said they used a snubber and told me basically how it worked. The later Halibrand quickchanges had a snubber as an option. The snubber keeps the ring gear from pushing away from the pinion when under a heavy load. If allowed to push away it allows the pinion to try to climb the ring gear and break the rear end housing. On the street in a car with a modified engine this is probably not too much of a problem but if you are running hard and have a little extra clearance you can screw up a rear end. When I was using an "A" as a daily driver rear ends were only $10 $15 at the junk yard so who cared Any way the "A" quick change i have has had a lot of welding in that area so I took the time to make a snubber. The snubber itself is bronze and the adapter housing is cold rolled hex. I drilled the axle housing with a hole saw in my drill press from the inside out and welded it on the inside as I didn't want to mess up the powder coating. It locates just after the ring gear passes the center of the pinion gear

 

Have you ever pulled the bronze plug to see if your pinion is wearing on the snubber, or in affect, the snubber is helping? I'd be curious to know if your pinion tried to walk.