Projects The bucket of ugly! A de-uglifying thread...

howdy ?

 

ok here's a question for y'all, as a rule of thumb when dropping a motor in a bucket chassis would the crank pulley centre be (a) level, (b) above, or (c) below the top of the chassis rails?.

 

Hi Chip!

Short pump yet? I can't locate that low alt. mount. Sorry.


jerry

 

Well, that depends. How deep is your pan? That clearance is gonna be more important than the balancer depth. My gut feeling on this is most will have the balancer somewhat centered, with possibly an inch or so offset above or below.

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My crank center line is an inch above the top of the frame.

 

Good info, guys--Thanks. Hey Gary...I get the `Idle vs Idol` pun. And I hope God does have a sense of humour. I prefer Exodus Ch 20, Vs 3-5 though...Also..Do you have a copy of the `58 or`59 `Rods Illustrated feature on Kookie? I used the pics in that to figure out the front suspension. Everyone scales the side view in the Car Craft feature though. It is an almost perfect 1/32 scale, or at least that`s what Donn remembered when we talked about it this morning....

 

Hi Guys

Been watching (and being highly entertained by) this thread since the beginning, but have so far resisted the urge to jump in.
But, since you're asking, here's what a 90 inch wheelbase looks like. Sorry for the crappy scanned picture, but the car is currently partially dismantled and this is the best pic I got!



Oh, and my crank c/l is in line with the top of the frame.

Bear

 

Howdy, y'all. What part of Texas is NooZeeland in kiwirodder?

Really for the right look I worry more about how level an engine sits than where the crank sits. It all depends on how low the front of your frame sits and if you have enough room between your pan and the ground when all the weight is on it.

 

So what took you so long?! Been a big fan of your car and a couple of other New Zeeland 'buckets for a LONGGGGGG time! Neat, neat, neat.

 

That's a very good point Gary. I've been meaning to check my car the last day or two to see where the crank pulley is, but in the end it really doesn't matter as much as how level the engine is in comparison to the car's rake. Most of the commercially available headers out there are built to be level to the carb base, and look a bit weird alongside the car when they are at a different angle than level to the ground. Again, it's a small detail when putting one of these together, but paying attention to engine angle can pay big dividends in the finished picture of your car.

 

You visiting Texas for the holiday, Gary?

 

Well.....Hawkes Bay is kinda like Texas......Bear-nice to see you on here.....

 

So I just googled Hawkes Bay......You ain't never been to Texas, have you.......;-) All the pics were WAY too green!

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Ha with the wind we been getting lately the place is nearly flat

 

ok another question, well two actually, is this a short or long water pump

PB270214 by k1w1rodder posted Nov 27, 2014 at 8:59 PM

and does this look too high in the frame

PB270216 by k1w1rodder posted Nov 27, 2014 at 8:58 PM

cheers thanks guys, oh and happy Thanksgiving

 

Kiwi, the pics didn't come through for me, but the the difference between the short and long water pumps is one inch. It's either 5 1/4" vs 6 1/4", or 5 3/4" vs 6 3/4" (I think it's this one). Don't forget to pay attention to water pump shaft diameter as well. They came in 5/8" and 3/4" sizes, but if you run a short pump I'm pretty sure their all 5/8". Just make sure the fan and pulley (and spacer if you use one), all have matching sized holes to the pump shaft. If not, the resulting imbalance will (at best case) drive you nuts, and (at worst case) break the pump shaft off and destroy everything in it's path!

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Well, I was curious which length figure was correct, so I Googled it. Three different sites gave three different ranges, the two I already mentioned, and Summit says Republic's catalog lists the short at 5 5/8", and the long at 6 15/16"!?!? The one thing that does seem consistent between the three is if it's under 6", it"s a short pump. Clear as mud, right? I'm thinking the differences in measurements are due to different standards? I would measure from pump to block mounting surface to fan to pump flange surface, because that's the critical dimension, but I don"t know if everyone else did that.

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Not sure if this helps but if I can I'll post a couple of shots of the old blue short water pump and the new one I installed on my 283. Lately I've had to post the text then go to edit to post photos.

 

I couldn't see the pics also, but a quick check if you can sit the pump in place is the short pump will almost touch the timing cover. JW

 

Still kinda hard to see, but most likely the new one is a long pump. Is that right, Gary? My CRS is kicking in and I can't remember if you have a long pump. (Why do I just KNOW someone on here is gonna make me regret that sentence!) I can't see the gap between the pump and the timing cover, but I "believe" only the long pumps had that angled heater hose boss (to clear the Alt. mounted on the front of the pass. side head.

 

ok i changed permissions does that help can you see them now
also there is quite a gap between pump and block

 

Nope, still can't see them. I can see the address for them, which makes me think they are in your gallery on here? But with the new HAMB, I can't seem to find that in your profile either.

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I can and its a long pump and the alternator bracket is also for the long pump only. JW

 

thanks JW, had an idea it was. This is my first 350

 

Beat me to it, JW. Hey guys...look at those radiator hoses in Gary`s pics......(aaaargh.......)

 

This is the car I got all my long pump parts from to put power steering on the 283 in my Ply. I didn't use the steering box though I found a rebuilt 605 on ebay. Great little P.S. box.

 

Hey now...

 

Oh shit more UGLY hoses. Actually after I put that hose on I regretted not putting a smooth one on it. Actually I think I have a smooth one that would fit in my hose box. The smooth one I had on it was too short (maybe a personal problem) after I moved the radiator forward to clear the long pump.

You know after all the talk of ribbed hoses breaking radiator outlets I just might change it. Okay you shamed me into it.

 

I NEVER thought I'd hear myself say this, but I'm kinda digging that mor door Nova! Must be the pea green paint....my first car was that color (for a bit, it got upgraded to line gold metallic Omron shortly thereafter!).

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With all the talk about short wheelbase T's this is what I think of. Probably been posted before. Although not perfect and we can all pick it apart but it does have a look. When I see it I kinda think of Fred's T and maybe yours Kiwarodder. Maybe it's just the white paint.