Projects The bucket of ugly! A de-uglifying thread...

I saw how hectic it all was and knew you would be busy...........what a great day we had.
Jeremy

 

Cool, its great to hear when people enjoy your efforts.

P5020011 (Large) by k1w1rodder posted May 3, 2015 at 8:58 PM

just a small number of the 100 cars at the rod run

 

Heck, looks like the weather gods were kind to you all down there Graham. I had not noticed the larger doors on your car before Graham until that photo Jeremy posted for Bill, absolutely brilliantly done and must help with getting in and out. I would like to see more of how you did them and some photo's of the doors open please.

 

I think this would look better if the rib outlining the original door were ground off as Glen suggested. If the body is too thin and you're going to have to reinforce it any way with a layer or two of fiberglass, it will no longer be hollow on the back side. It would take only a little extra work to smooth it out and make it disappear.

Maybe it would look good if you made the rib follow the new door lines. But I think smooth would look better and be less work. It's up to you.

I also like the rounded route around the rear tire that Glen suggested. If you bent some square steel tube and glassed it in, it would work better than wood. Again, since you will be adding a layer of fiberglass anyway, not much extra work.

Once you cut the door out of the side, both the body and the door will surely need reinforcing anyway.

 

That's very close...except mine's an earlier T body, and I want to wrap the bottom of the opening under almost to the frame.

 

I think Graham's looks fine. The fact that it's not been noticed, with all the pics that have been posted, is testimonial to the fact that it doesn't look bad.

If I had a tube bender...and the skill to use it competently from a wheelchair...I'd definitely go with steel reinforcement. What I do have is a lot of woodworking equipment, more than a bit of experience using it, and access to a lot of fine quality ash wood.

The trick is not doing the reinforcing after cutting. The wood reinforcing is put in first, with double width pieces strategically positioned centered over the line to be cut. When the cuts are made, everything aligns nicely. Straight lines come out nicer when cut with a small diameter circular saw.

 

Unfortunately I can't claim credit for the doors, they were done by the previous owner who got sick of the project after doing most of the body mods(steel reinforcing throughout). I just tidied up some of the lines. Also I try to photograph it so the new door line doesn't stand out too much

 

This sounds like a great plan. A guy has gotta use what he has, both in materials, and more importantly, skill set. 'Glas the wood into to body and it will be plenty strong.

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Bill,
I understand what your saying, but I'm not sure what the mod is going to accomplish for you? Most (but not all) T-Buckets are channeled over the body 3"-4" (the height of the frame rail), and approximately 4"-6" in, your going to run into that frame rail (I'm going down shortly to work on mine, so I'll measure it when I get there). I was assuming you wanted the wider door to slide directly from a scooter to the floor / seat of the car? The reason I'm bringing all this up is twofold. 1) Channeled or not, your going to run into that frame rail (and unless the unchanneled car is REALLY low, I think that's going to be a problem?). 2) Have you considered "Z"ing the chassis? Something along the lines of this?

Since you have good wood working skills, have you considered mocking your chassis up using 2"x4"s?

 

Something else for cannon fodder, from the Drag Cars in Motion thread. I know it used to be a race car, but there are lots of details to ponder:

 

Very Kool Nitro. V8-60? Nice build.

 

In that case, what do you think about having the rib follow the new lines of the door, as if Henry Ford planned it that way all along?

 

That doesn't sound like a good idea to me, I think if it is done as nice as it was on Graham's, it will be the way I would do it.

 

Dammit, dammit, dammit, dammit...! Just when I thought I was over the hots for a T track roadster...

 

I agree Dick, and to move the molded door line would make it more of a phantom looking body and if you take the new opening all the way down you will have less to notice.
I think a swing out seat base would work well and aid transferring in the future, remember to future build now. you may need to have a fold away column also and the idea of the lowered chassis under the body is very cool.
Jeremy

 

Picked up a '32 grille shell so I gotta ask Steel Rebel how tall is your shell? Is yours a custom radiator or something off the shelf from another car?. Pieces a coming together into a semi cohesive plan that will end up with a 88"-92" wheelbase bobbed bucket with most of the parts from the 40's to 60's.

 

Just measured oh what's your name oh yeah Gary so hard to remember. It seems to measure about 17 1/2 inches from the frame. Your probably not getting into ugly unless you go much above 18". I had a 32 Ford radiator cut down with a thick core installed built by a friend.
Glad to hear your getting your shit together on your bucket. Can't wait to see what you come up with. Post more photos when you can.
Gary

 

But I would suggest you don't cut the grille down until you have the car on it's feet with the body in place so that you can run the straight edge rule down the body line as that will give you a more accurate look then just cutting to a standard type measurement. Heck, I have been on this site too long as I am starting to learn from Gary.

 

I'm not going to cut it down ('32 grille) as far as Bob Johnston/Ed Roth did on the Tweedy Pie car which to me looked like it squashed, but I have a small cowl body (1917) that would be close to Garys' car as far as height and width, but I will wait until the body is mounted. I'm working on the frame dimensions now and we just got a new plasma cutter and TIG welder at work that I can use in the evenings, so things may happen quickly.

 

Make use of those perks when they are available.............don't forget.............pictures are a must, Gary.

 

Whatever you do don't try to close in the bottom of a 32 grill on a bucket. UGLY! Just cut it off and let it hang.

 

Is Chip back from hiking in the Superstition Mountains yet?

 

Bwa-ha-ha-ha-haaaaaaa..................

 

I agree, that's one thing that makes TWEETY PIE UUUGLY.. saw that sucker off and sell it.
somebody needs it..

 

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This^^^
Made it vere over to 'cute', you dont want that. Gary's is the model for proper use of a deuce shell on a T

 

I'm looking at a front frame outside width of 23.25" , and 20.25" inside so a deuce shell should slip between the rails, giving an overall radiator height of 21.5" (only 18" above the frame), no reason for the chin underneath except to maybe offer a little protection to the bottom tank. I'm looking for maximum cooling capacity.

 

To be sure. I'm sure Gary in Nor Cal can tell you how his cools. Surely its a lil cooler in Oregon then Clearwater Ca. Plus the motor out in the air has gotta help a bunch, especially in places that have temperate summertime heat.

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Hi guys. One thing I've wondered on looking at pics of your roadster SR Gary, is how do you get the air out of the cooling system seeing as your radiator cap is well below the max height of your upper hose?
Cheers,
Arnold from Oz.

 

Parks up on a steep hill so the cap is elevated.
Jeremy

 

Hey guys I don't know who made me guru of radiator height. Oh yeah that might be me. I really think mine is maybe an inch too high.
To answer your question as to how I get the air out I pull the top hose at the engine and fill the radiator there. I have lately installed an overflow tank that I think should remove any that is left.