This might be a slow burner, it might flare up, time will tell. The idea is to build a Gerberesque SWB sprint/hillclimb/trials car (i live in Scotland in the UK) low centre of gravity, minimal weight, good power to weight ratio and built using parts from pre 1931 so I can access the events i want to. the basic plan is to use a T ch***is, flipped front crossmember and the rails splayed on both sides as gerber did on the LH side only so both driver and p***enger can sit down into the ch***is either side of the shortened torque tube and just in front of the rear axle. power will be provided by a 1928 Chevy 4 ohv motor and fed via a T flywheel through a T planetary transmission to a T rear axle with the larger '26 drum brakes.
Thanks, its an old Ford drawing that i tippexed and photocopied to draw up my other project in waiting, a twin engined model T straight eight Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I have a friend that put a Model A engine on a T pan and transmission. No water pump. Runs great. Then he did a '27 or '28 Chev on T pan and trans. He said that was even easier! He did run a water pump on that one. He calls the all Ford one a T&A and the other a Cheford. Dave
I have looked at a couple of options to mount the Chev 4 to the T transmission. The first one as your friend (and John Gerber) did is to slightly modify a T oil pan, fit the T flywheel by re-drilling the Chev output flange and re-drill the mounting holes on the pan to suit the Chev Block. The second one I've been looking at is to retain the Chev oil pan and use an already cut down lower half of the hogshead (rear part of the oil pan) that I have as a leftover from the TwinT project (above drawing) and do some creative tinwork to make the hogshead oil tight. As I have to put in a new front engine mount/crossmember any way, It makes sense to make it suit the Chev Block. The hogshead can have a crossmember to support the 4th main keeping everything in line. I plan to use a floating input shaft in the trans to help with the balance whatever route I go.
Primitive Go Fast...Early, Awesome and Wildly Inspiring @Blackbob. The T8...please also do share as it evolves too. 2020 needs all the Goodness we can throw at it...thanks for sharing...
Thanks .. I probably should start a separate thread for it, as I have been working away on it on and off for some time. I'll need to dig all of the pics and notes out. The arrival of the Chevy motors kinda pushed it back in the queue
Stogy's excited... From the time of the Boardtrack racing...even road...I'm thinking...Great Stuff @Blackbob...
If you have any pics of his oil pan set up i would love to see them.I offered the T oil pan up to my short block this afternoon and there are a few areas that would need cat and modified to clear the likes of the oil pump, front pulley and the front and rear mains. The front end of the oil pan would need to have the oil damn removed and replaced as well as being cut and lengthened as well as widened to house the pulley.
I don't have pics but I do know it took a lot of heating and hammer work. I don't think he ran the oil pump, as running the T flywheel slings the oil around just like a T engine. I recall he redrilled the pan bolt holes even tho they are the same pattern, it worked better to move it. Forward maybe? Hmmm, is that the chevy engine? I was referring to the Model A. Not sure what all on the Chev. I don't see him often but I'll see what I can do. Dave
I just gave Dave (yep, another one) a call. He is out of town. He said the front dam had to be removed and a new one built on the Cheford. Both the Model A and Chev engines had to be moved forward on the pans due to the crank length being longer than a T. The Chev pulley is down in the pan. I'm welcome to take pics any time, but I will wait til he is home. He said the Chev was a '28. Dave
On my T race car , I'm using a full length " C " crank in the T engine. Rather than move the engine ahead, I lengthened the pan. I used two pans . I cut off the front of the best one , then I cut the front off another pan 5/8th " longer. I welded the two together, ( only one weld ) & only had to redrill a few holes toward the back of the pan rail , & rework the bottom opening. Hope this helps with ideas .
Thats a great help, and a great looking car. I hadnt considered cut n shutting two pans .. lovin the racer Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app[/QUOTE]
Over the last few days Ive been looking at my pile of Chevy bits and my pile of T bits and trying to get my head around the T transmission and Chevy Block situation. The "normal" route would be to use the T oil pan and cut/shut and grind everything to fit together, but I always like to suss out all of the alternatives before I dive in and do what I shoulda just done in the first place So option 2, is an idea that has been swimming around my in my head is to keep the Chevy oil pan and use a separate transmission case mounted via an adapter plate to the back of the Chevy block. If I use a thick alloy plate I could weld a plugged up alloy hogshead cover to the plate to be used as a lower trans case and simply bolt a second alloy hogshead cover to the top and everything would be where Henry intended and, so long as everything was square to the crank flange would be stiffer than the original ford tin pan. This would only work with a pre 1926 trans as they hd a narrower clutch band. I have a '26/'27 trans so would have to find an earlier band and use the earlier clutch, which I have. I mocked it up using a cast steel 26 HH covered an alloy one and it looks like it should work out. I could use the cast iron '26 one for the top, which has the mounting for a starter motor but as this is going to be a racer/hillclimber I want to keep it all as light and simple as possible and the cast steel HH is really heavy!!
a bit of saturday morning mockuppery using a 26/27 hogshead flipped as the trans sump and an early alloy one on top
(slang, transitive) To come to understand (a person). We've sussed him out — he only drinks on Fridays and only in that bar in town. (slang, transitive) To manage to work (something) out, to determine (something).
It's been over 18 months since I did any work on the TwinT, a combination of getting a contract job building wildcat breeding pens and then having a whole lot of work to do at the farm when that came to an end has kept the the project parts under a tarp on the barn floor. Today I got everything set up on the bench so I can get on with it.. tomorrow, I'll put together a list of bits I need to get and a job list.
Glad to see you're back on it, looking forward to plenty more tricky problems and cunning solutions..
Ha, I should have posted that in the right thread .. I also pulled the Chevy lumps out and set them up on another bench, trying to work out where @AndrewMcCann got to from his thread so I can take it forward..
That’s what I enjoy is a good tech thread with ingenuity ( meat and potatoes) without the fluff . Go Bob Go !!!!
I know a man down Cheltenham way that's had an A ch***is modified to build a low slung Gerberesque style car. He may be convinced to part with it now he has a narrow single seater to play with instead...
Here’s what i’m starting out with and hoping to achieve. Tail end of 2019 I bought two ’28 Chevy National 4 cylinder motors from Andy McCann here in the UK. the stock grey one is pretty much bone stock and apart from a 1.5” crack in the water jacket should be able to get into running order as is without too much h***le. The second (John Deere green) block came bored out to suit oversize A Ford pistons with a bore of 3.870” which is a fair amount over the 3.690” stock bore giving a capacity of 183cu". Standard Chevy crank will use Ford A rods, I need to work out a thrust set up to take up the journal width which is wider than the big end of the model A rods. Using the A rods which are longer than stock Chevy ones which helps to bump up the compression a fair bit.. calculations later.. Sitting up top is a 1921 Oldsmobile 3 port head, the rare as rocking horse **** (over here in Scotland anyway ) the , bolt straight on, go faster mod for 20’s Chevys and known as the “poor man’s Rajo” for Ford T motors which need an adapter plate or two and a bit more bolting to make work. My Olds head needs two holes patched on the top where someone has broken in to the water jacket for some unknown reason, but I plan to get the top milled to fit 1.5:1 rockers anyway so I may make up a full cover for the top to bolt down and seal the holes (still to be decided). Olds valves are similar in size to model T ones, you can re cut the seats to take SBC valves which helps the breathing a lot, increasing the rocker ratio gives more lift on the stock cam, a change of cam to model B Ford specs helps a lot more. The spec I’m headed for should make for a well balanced rev motor that will push the hp up a fair bit from the bone stock 35hp. With a Ford T transmission and a Ruckstell back axle in a rolling ch***is that should end up weighing in at around 1/2 a ton or less I reckon it will be a potent wee beastie! Stock Ford T is all outta breath at 1200 rpm and pulling 45mph on the flat, a stock Chevy 4 revs to 2200 rpm, with the above mods and a lighter T flywheel with no magnets it should spin to 3000 -3400 rpm without too much h***le, feed that through a T Trans and that is how John Gerber won races
Don't care what thread you post in, just keep posting! My '28 Chevy racers motor needs a rebuild and there are very few who have been there in UK, so I'm watching very closely. IIRC the Mc Cann motor after boring had almost no block metal left between the bores, is this a problem to you?
The Jalopy Journal
