Projects The Chris Casny Coupe, Model A build pics

looks great man!!

 

Looks great so far, can't wait to see it rollin' down the road!

 

A little bit of progress.
Floors:
I chose to use aluminum and my bead roller, to make it happen.
I'm not sure, if I should keep going on this thread or start a new one, ala Kirk, everytime I do something.


Laid out

 

Very nice Chris.

 

I vote that you post to this thread so those that have not seen it from the start get all the progress. It is cool man I dig it alot

 

Ditto.


Very nice work and can't wait too see it on the road. Its a real kick ass feeling when you get your dream car. I still can't believe it sometimes when I walk into my garage and see my car there as well.

 

Great work, Floor pans look ace with the bead.
Keep on this thread so I dont miss anything.

 

i need a floor built, wanna help? looks great

 

+1

With your ally floor you should probably use stainless fasteners. Zing plated would cause a Galvanic reaction and they wont last long at all.

 

I agree, this is a good one, I want to watch the progress.

 

Chris!!! Damn! That looks great!! I friggin' LOVE that dash!!

OH, btw... your idea of black on black with no flash just nickel "accents" is rad!! You seriously have great taste!

Keep 'em comin'! Can't wait to see how it turns out! You got mad skill brotha'!

 

NICE build Dreadman!

*One note regarding the above statement though... stainless fasteners would be one of the WORST things you could plop through AL! Depending on the alloy of AL you're working with, stainless is generally SO cathodic that it will literally BURN the aluminum away within 5-7 years. A CADMIUM-plated fastener is ideal here, with some form of barrier tape between the floor/subframe as well...

...okay, off my soapbox now.

 

I was going to use these 3/16" vintage aluminum aircraft rivets.

 

Wow! You´re coming along really well! Very fine craftsmanship!
Rock on!
Florian

 

Below is one version of a galvanic chart that indicates a metal's potential to react with another dissimilar metal based on how distant they are from one another. Zinc is commonly used on fasteners and in galvanized coatings because of it's tendency to "sacrifice" itself to the environment, leaving your bolt, fence, boat trailer, etc. intact. Cadmium falls nicely between many common steel and aluminum alloys, making it a very handy "insulator," where the degradation to all involved parties is vastly slowed.

Realistically... if you don't drive on the salt flats very often, or on icy Canadian roads, your aluminum floor and rivets should last as long as you do!

-GALVANIC CHART-
CORRODED END (ANODIC OR LEAST NOBLE)
• MAGNESIUM
• MAGNESIUM ALLOYS
• ZINC
• ALUMINUM 5052, 3004, 3003, 1100, 6053
• CADMIUM
• ALUMINUM 2117, 2017, 2024
• MILD STEEL (1018), WROUGHT IRON
• CAST IRON, LOW ALLOY HIGH STRENGTH STEEL
• CHROME IRON (ACTIVE)
• STAINLESS STEEL, 430 SERIES (ACTIVE)
• 302, 303, 304, 321, 347, 410,416, STAINLESS STEEL (ACTIVE)
• NI - RESIST
• 316, 317, STAINLESS STEEL (ACTIVE)
• CARPENTER 20 CB-3 STAINLESS (ACTIVE)
• ALUMINUM BRONZE (CA 687)
• HASTELLOY C (ACTIVE) INCONEL 625 (ACTIVE) TITANIUM (ACTIVE)
• LEAD - TIN SOLDERS
• LEAD
• TIN
• INCONEL 600 (ACTIVE)
• NICKEL (ACTIVE)
• 60 NI-15 CR (ACTIVE)
• 80 NI-20 CR (ACTIVE)
• HASTELLOY B (ACTIVE)
• BRASSES
• COPPER (CA102)
• MANGANESE BRONZE (CA 675), TIN BRONZE (CA903, 905)
• SILICON BRONZE
• NICKEL SILVER
• COPPER - NICKEL ALLOY 90-10
• COPPER - NICKEL ALLOY 80-20
• 430 STAINLESS STEEL
• NICKEL, ALUMINUM, BRONZE (CA 630, 632)
• MONEL 400, K500
• SILVER SOLDER
• NICKEL (PASSIVE)
• 60 NI- 15 CR (PASSIVE)
• INCONEL 600 (PASSIVE)
• 80 NI- 20 CR (PASSIVE)
• CHROME IRON (PASSIVE)
• 302, 303, 304, 321, 347, STAINLESS STEEL (PASSIVE)
• 316, 317, STAINLESS STEEL (PASSIVE)
• CARPENTER 20 CB-3 STAINLESS (PASSIVE), INCOLOY 825
• NICKEL - MOLYBDEUM - CHROMIUM - IRON ALLOY (PASSIVE)
• SILVER
• TITANIUM (PASS.) HASTELLOY C & C276 (PASSIVE), INCONEL 625(PASS.)
• GRAPHITE
• ZIRCONIUM
• GOLD
• PLATINUM
PROTECTED END (CATHODIC OR MOST NOBLE)

...sorry if this is more than you ever wanted to know! I just happen to be doing a lot of work on these things right now and thought I could pass on some knowledge on how to preserve that beautiful coupe!

 

Hey Dreadman, That Beading ROCKS, I can even see that from Decatur....

 

Alright, I just worked on this today.
Sice the Nailhead is really long, there was no choice for me, to either reverse the firewall, or cut it to accept this beast of an engine. I opted for cutting into the firewall.

Since the distributor needed an extra 4" and the driverside head needed 2 more inches of clearance, I had to be creative and make something that was somewhat cool looking. I could have just built a square box and welded it on, but that seemed a little too easy.
Here are some pictures, hope it all makes sense.
Hole in the firewall.

Rounding the ends, on a 1 1/5" pipe, using a hammer.

With both sides rounded, I held the piece up, but it looked a little to "boring" for me.

After some "over the knee" bending and using the english wheel I started to get a nice shape.


Then it was back to the trusty, 1 1/2" pipe for two more bends.


Cut an "arc" to clear the transmission, and voila, we have a nearly completed, firewall recess.
I still have to fill in the top and figure out how to connect the "wood" part of the floor to the firewall.


Sorry the pictures I took of the front of the cowl, didnt come out right, so there arent any, at this moment

 

And I also redid the floor sheetmetal, this time out of 18 gauge steel.

 

Looking great so far!

 

awesome... it's really coming together...

 

Looking great, Dreadman!!!!

 

damn bitchin! now you made me sad i sold my coupe..............i had a 32 frame for it to...........................:-(

 

i loved the nash but this is going to be killer

 

Man that thing rocks! Looks damn good from here! Keep us posted on your progress!

 

great pictures, that thing is badass.

 

very cool indeed

 

too cool for school man

 

great work man!!

 

Just the right look; sweet old school coupe!

 

Chris, nice work man... you've come a long way since we spoke on the phone. I check this thread daily.

take care,
Mike K.
Vendetta Auto Fab