Moving the rad to within 3/4" of the fan might work. If it doesn't, I would try making a shroud for the fan. I have been amazed at the difference it makes. Not hard to make a fiberglass fan shroud as I described on the 'making a fiberglass fan shroud' thread.
I hear you, I had zero experience before I built my vette. You could use the same idea and build it with steel like I did on my 40 truck.
That is a good way to keep your engine cool. Thanks. So today I install new 15 lbs fuel gauge,door hinge was fixed yesterday, seat belts almost done,I thought I fixed that leaky flex hose piece of shit but i didnt. I need to chuck it in the garbage and buy a proper hose.. I thought id see how it ran today... It fired up,ran for a few secs then died. Wouldnt start... I had a low battery so that didnt help... Kept trying for an hour but nothing.. I have power to coil gas comp but nothing...could it be flooded? Will try again sunday.
So...still wont start. I had to crank it over like 10 times press the acc pedal to squirt gas and it finally fired but only for seconds.. I either flood it or its starved for fuel.. Also leaking gas from the secondary butterfly rod.. Its a bit frustrating. Maybe sell the thing and have someone smarter with more patience and more money can get it running...
If its leaking from the butterfly, you could have a sunk float even...Carburetors are cheap.... rebuild kits are cheaper... You came a long ways man... don't stop now.... IT fired at least.... This is the part of builds that suck.... chasing down the small gremlins.... You may want to pull the front float off, pull the metering block and clean out the passages with carb cleaner, pull the needle and make sure you didn't suck trash up into it making it hold open... I know that in this ethanol crap fuel, the carb if it sits for more than a few weeks without being run it can start growing stuff inside.... My buddy here in Houston sold his COE about 2 years ago.... dually bagged with a bed like you did... They look cool as hell with a bed... YOU have done a good job and keep up the good work man.
Checked fuel pressure... New Mr gasket 15 psi gauge wont read anymore...do not buy that piece of shit guys. New holley regulator does not work either... Full pressure anyway you turn the screw.. These are new items...
I think walker makes a shroud blank that you cut your own opening https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Walk...hroud-Style-F-19-1-4-x-20-1-8-Inch,22622.html
Thank you. I remember putting 5qts of oil a month ago,today I drained the "oil" and received 10 qts of dark thin liquid that smells a lot like gas. Soooo Gonna get new oil,new plugs,maybe new wires,rebuild carb,new fuel pressure regulator,new gauge and try again... Whats a good gauge? I paid 30$ for a mr gasket pos gauge..
Nothing worse than running an engine that has the oil diluted with gasoline. I bought a Harbor freight tune up kit that has a pressure gauge that’s been working great for ten years. Yep time to get serious on your fuel delivery. And no you’re not quitting.
Don't give up now!!! Imagine how GREAT you will feel when you kick this problems ass!!!! This is how it goes with old cars. Keep at it!
Yeah,mom didnt like quitters. Its an electric pupm,will it still leak? Thanks..ill take a look at the hf stuff. I like the fabrication and painting part but not the mechanical/chasing problems in this hobby
throw some gas down the throat of the carb... see if it lights... might be as simple as a bad fuel pump after you change that gas soaked oil.. that's gonna be another problem to look into.. These are just small things keep chugging along
Just throwing this out there as a quick check for gas in the oil. When contaminated with gasoline, it will ignite on the dipstick with a lighter. One more item, if you still have the mechanical pump on the engine, and are running fuel through it so you can keep the original lines, they will allow fuel in the oil also, when the diaphragm goes south.
I have a later sbc with no mechanical pump port.. So i use an electric one... Definately gas in the oil
No mechanical diaphragm pump, so that is not the source of the fuel in the oil. My suspicion is a fuel leak from the carb. Over pressure, junk in needle valve, sunk float, blown power valve (early Holley carb only), cracked casting, etc... I recommend a cheap in-line fuel pressure gauge. I use these under hood, real quick to verify that the fuel pressure is correct. In my Off-Topic Cummins 4bt conversion, I have an electric gauge (very Off-Topic digital) under dash. Diesels have their own unique set of problems. I never want to experience a plugged fuel filter in Rattle Snake Crossing, TX https://www.autozone.com/gauges-and...re-performance-fuel-pressure-gauge/228352_0_0 $16 at AutoZone. A little more expensive at Summit and Pep Boys. I've not found then in stock at my local stores recently, Lost Wages might have a better selection. Other brand$ offer $imilar product$.
Ok guys.. This is how i tested my fuel regulator. I pulled the line that feeds the carb and i put it in a 1 gallon container. Then I turned the pump on and timed how fast it would fill it. With the screw all the way in or out, It took the same amount of time.. This is because the gauge is not working.. So I contacted the regulator seller and he replied that the engine needs to be running to set the pressure..is this true?
It’s best to attach a gauge to your pump or regulator for a proper reading. And no the engine doesn’t have to run. But the fuel gauge has to be connected for a proper reading regardless how the fuel pump works.
Open hose only tests the flow rate (ie Gallons/minute at Zero back pressure). In other words, no restriction, no fuel pressure developed. The fuel pressure regulator is set, using the back pressure of a closed carburetor float valve. This is a dynamic adjustment (i.e., setting the pressure of a flowing liquid), so, the final adjustment is done with the engine running.
The Jalopy Journal
