Technical the difference between something functional verses something functional and aesthetically pleasing..

Thank you, that alt is a 50amp Denso unit, I don’t have any demand (I hope) need for a larger unit

 

Rod you're right, there are vintage racers that had rigid mounted rear ends...

The fact it could be driven hard*** makes for a clause in the information referencing it as drivable with caveots...

 

More of my “engineering”. Throttle return spring bracket, throttle cable bracket and fuel lines. My vision is to use a jic fittings though the build and not have any hose clamps (except radiator hoses). All penetrations though the firewall will utilize jic bulkhead fittings. Thanks for looking and all the kind words.

 

How do you adjust belt tension without removing the link ? How do you lock the threaded link in the spherical rod ends with no jam nuts ?

 

I have to remove a bolt. So far I just pry it over and expand the rod ends. Low low tech. I was hoping for a left right configuration but that didn’t work out…..somewhere those ends are in a leftover bin lol. As far as needing jam nuts, if the rod ends can’t rotate I shouldn’t need jam nuts, in theory. Btw, I haven’t run this yet.

 

I think this photo was taken in mockup stage but.............
This is just a public service announcement for the youngsters in the audience that don't recognize that Nylock self-locking nut on the carb linkage, make sure to have one to two bolt threads showing through the plastic lock ring.

 

If you are referring to my linkage, true, mock up stage, upon final ***embly I’ll probably change to these types of lock nuts thorough out the build. I kind of like the look

 

I can't tell but if that is a full size Nylock you can use the narrower jam nut size version.
I'd be careful with those steel crimped locknuts, some are known to pull threads when being removed.

 

Ouch! I didn’t think about that, especially on teeny tiny screws. Thanks triple d

 

Not saying they all are suspect.
In the late seventies I was a machinist at a company that bought another one and in our slow times we were tasked with putting their fasteners into our inventory.
I was paired with one of our top ***emblers that knew his stuff and he pulled a box of crimped steel locknuts out of the crate and started to throw them away, I said I'd take them and he said, "you do not want these", he grabbed a couple bolts and screwed the lock nuts on them about half an inch then told me to get a couple wrenches and remove them.
Yep, pulled the threads on both of them, I will always remember that experience.

 

ARP stainless bolts have both form and function. I've been using them for screwing together my FED.


The thread forms are neat, no burrs. The heads have enough curve in them to feel right, but still give a sharp hold when using a 12-point socket. The washers are ground (not stamped) and have that same "just the right amount of radius" feel to them.

Cheers,
Harv

 

This innovative dual Condenser setup looks like the Space Age Propulsion System for that Wheel-stander body we were all searching for a background on recently here...

I am so many times comforted to be a****st such genius around here...spending time in the Garages all around this Globe coming up with stuff the is many times superior to whats available OEM of aftermarket improving on the shortcomings many times...nice on @tubman, Condensers seem to to be one of the weaker links in points systems from reading Threads on such things in recent years...

 

Talk about tune-ability Robert...couple laps all out and ***ess and adjust there, there, there, and there...I can see why they went multi adjustment on things like shocks/coil over type stuff but you're building to older tech so I get it or is it still very much the same in that sport?

 

Now Koz, whether you thought it up or stole it, you have it mounted, very, very slick. Now let’s run old school rubber brake hose’s to the wheel cylinders and a formed hard line from the wheel cylinder bleeder to the caliper inlet.

 

Okay, I'll play. First attempt at a tilt steering column and I thought it looked as bad as it was. Second attempt, somewhat better but still not proud of it (although the function is much better and it locks in place soundly). I don't think my lifespan will be long enough to try another dumb*** idea, so if this one works, it might just settle for it.

 

Excellent Idea! Unfortunately, I needed to bandsaw the wheel cylinder in half to get it to clear the rotor on the inside of the backing plate. I'm going to see if I can come up with a way to do it and I'll post up here if I'm successful. I need to do it in a manner that won't compromise safety or reliability. This can't be too tough.....

 

I appreciate the minds and craftsmen who value the combination of form and function. The thing that takes it to the next level, for me, is the restraint required to give it a pleasing balance.

There are both occasions where a talented builder has run out of enthusiasm and effort and the car has a high level of detail that is disconnected from the rest. And, there are others who forgot any notion of restraint and the project becomes something it was never intended. I've been on both sides of that fence, haha.

 

In re[ply to Brents post above, it seems to me, I only start to get to the "sweet spot" on my builds after I've driven them a year or two and a dozen things that didn't quite suit me while I was building it get refined. Sooner or later you get all the weak links removed and you sell it off and start again.

 

All metal Lock Nuts do not tear the threads off of bolts when being removed any more than a standard nut does. They can sometimes tear a thread just like a standard nut if there is something wrong, like corrosion or damaged threads. They are made and sold with AN specifications (even when they aren't actually certified), and years ago there was plague of counterfeit AN parts on the market. I worked in a government procurement office and we had to be careful who we ordered many parts from. These bolts are commonly used and reused in aviation and I have personally removed and installed them many times with no problems. They can eventually wear out if reused too many times. The all metal are often required when used near high temperature components, as the plastic inserts can melt. The plastic inserts work well in lower temp applications. I would rather use a lock nut and chance having to replace the bolt or stud sometime than use something that might work itself loose. When two nuts are used in a "jamb nut" situation, they are actually relying on a slight deformation of the bolts thread.Usually not enough to be a problem. Galling can occur with any bolt/nut combination if one of the components is of poor quality/grade material. The all metal lock nuts work very well in my opinion.

/www.aopa.org/news-and-media/all-news/2021/october/14/aircraft-maintenance-understanding-nuts

 

I’m going overboard on fasteners. I like them all to match throughout the build. Correct rating and continuity of color, style is kind of what I’m after in the nuts and bolt department. McMaster Carr is my go to vender. Their website is quick and easy to navigate, the downside is shipping……it seems after click buy, I think of something else I want, (not necessarily need). Btw, I like the look of the all metal locknuts

 

Great link btw, thanks for that

 

Kudos to you for going after the small details that make the difference in looking (and working) in harmony. Its those small details that add up and make things look "right". When they are "right" they are less likely to be noticed. Its whatever isn't in sync with everything else.........that's what people always notice.

 

Don't they have to be "left" handed below the equator ? Never could figure out how you guys can speed shift with your left hand.
Seriously though, I buy a lot of nuts and bolts off E-Bay in bulk quan***ies because I can find good quality ones with the washer incorporated into the bolt head as well as the opposing nut. They also come with serrations on the bottom surfaces. I like them a lot better than what I can usually find locally, so I try to maintain a stock of them. Longer ones can be shortened as needed.

 

I couldn't resist these O.T.B. Gear air filter housings. They use a K&N style media, compliment the valve covers, fuel block and even the alternator;

 

Here are some of the bolts I keep on hand.

The caption next to the bolt on the right says: "Hurricane Bolt with large head to spread load when needed. Think they come in 1/4 and 5/16 inch Stainless."



Believe these are AN washers but have small hole for kinda large washer which can be handy.


My point simply is that its a whole lot easier to buy in bulk cause its way cheaper, and its a whole lot easier to walk over to a full cabinet on a Sunday than chase my tail all over town trying to find 2 bolts like these. I buy them off Ebay 50-100 (or more) at a time.

 

thats about how blunt my brand new set of step drills looks after an hour of trying to drill a 20mm hole in 8mm steel

 

You are a fastener king

 

I just tired of the futility of trying to find a special bolt or stud when in the middle of a project, and chasing all over town and coming up empty. So I tried to get ahead of the game and buy the nicer bolts before I actually need them. In the long run its cheaper than buying a couple special bolts at a Fastenal. There is one of the small drawer cabinets for sale on the local Facebook. The prices vary but you can often pick one up for $100. They want a $175.....if available a couple weeks from now, I'll offer $100. Thats the best way to start a bolt collection............ A man never has too many nuts......

 

Check out McMaster Carr, even if it’s to price check.

 

So much effort to make something appear like what it isn't ?