The elusive 224/3.7 MerCruiser banger

CNC-Dude,
If you are thinking of making these, I would be interested in two.

 

Same here, I would be interested in a few.

 

How thick....?

 

Whatever is available. 1/4" and 1/2", maybe?

 

Ok

 

I would want 1/2" thick.

 

My Dad and I were talking about the deck plates a while back. My thought was could someone use the .dfx program as a template to clean up the block? Obviously, you won't be able to use it everywhere, but depending on the bit size it might be a big time saver. And, you could set it to any depth you wish, depending on how thick of a filler piece you are using. I know nothing about those programs and machines, so I don't know if they will even jive.

 

Put me down for one.

 

Not really following what your trying to say. As for CAD file, it's just a 2D drawing, you have to import it into CAM software to create the program....

 

When we do Darton's for OT engines, the blocks are machined for the deck plate/top of sleeves. We have had slip fit plates come through the shop too. Doesn't seem as effective.

http://www.accuratepower.com/Machine/sleeves.html

 

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That is right, the engines are all that way. Most builders just ignore it and leave the bolt out. I make a clamp that bolts onto that hole in the block and clamps the bellhousing to the block there.
I bought a bellhousing like yours in case I ran out of room to fit a standard starter in from the front, a reverse rotation starter would work from the rear. Never needed it.[/QUOTE]

 

Vibration has never been a problem for my engines but I do run soft engine mounts.

Detonation and running hot is much more of a problem, especially with small radiators.
I've been using a DJ5 frame for one Mercruiser-engined car. Had to lengthen the frame and sprint car body 24" to make room for a transmission.. The rear axle is positraction and the Dana 44 gears were too low 3.7 something for my liking so I put in 3.07 and was happier after that change.

Propane would help on the detonation on 87 octane gas issue, but the root of the problem is that the compression ratio is too high to allow enough ignition advance for improved low speed torque and good fuel economy.

 

Thanks for the heads up..I could not do anything on it this time as my computer died and I've been offline for3 weeks cobbling together old parts to make another computer which works..

 

I had to cut the aluminum that supported the alternator stator windings. It interfered with my small block balancer.

 

Can someone repost the actual .dxf file of the cylinder girdle. I found the discussion around page 84 where somebody posted a zip file, but others posted it wasn't a valid file and couldn't open it.
Thanks

 

Just to let every one know the .dxf file that is posted is not a press fit type of cylinder girdle. This is designed to fit into the top of the block then be welded in and surfaced. It took me around 20 min. with a die grinder to get it to fit right. Unfortunately life has been busy and still not welded in, plan on tacking it in then v-grooving and welding in short sections to control warping the block. I had the plate cut from 1/4" at Send Cut Send think it was around $90 with shipping but that was a while back.

 

For some reason HAMB wont let me upload a .dxf file only a zip version. I can e-mail it direct to you if you want.

 

Thanks, pm sent to Three Widow's Garage!

 

Got new rod bearings in the mail. Installed in the rods they measured up 2.502x bore. Mercruiser book said 40 foot pounds on the rod nuts. Haynes said 45-50 for a 460 through MY1990 and 41-45 for all subsequent. Set the wrench to 45 and sent it. Turns beautifully.

 

ARP says 50 ft lbs but their alloy is different, they specify their own assembly lubricant and use flange nuts.. I wonder why Haynes specified a lower torque late in the run. My old rod bolts varied in length so, out of caution, I ordered a new set. The bolts in the new set varied in their length so perhaps that is just how they are. Carefully measure and record their length so you can check for bolt stretch next time the engine is apart.

 

Rod bolt lengths are 2.4165, 2.4155, 2.404 and 2.424 down the driver's side of the engine and 2.4155, 2.416, 2.416 and 2.425 down the passenger side.

Should I be concerned about that?

I measured the bolts on two spare rods I had lying around and they were 2.418 and 2.419

 

If they are stock rod bolts, there probably really isn't a consistent standard for length since they aren't machined on both ends. ARP and many aftermarket bolts however, have dimples for inserting pointed tipped mics to measure them. But again, they aren't machined either, but creates a repeatable point of reference for long rod stretch tools to measure from when they are new. Seeing a fluctuation in length isn't a need to worry, since you don't know how long your bolts were when they were new....

 

Got my head bolts in the mail. They're a little on the long side but that was the best compromise between fully engaging the threads in the block, price, etc. Anyone see any issue with using aluminum for the spacers? I'm still gonna run a hardened washer regardless.

Deere part numbers, R62419 and R62418 (or equivalent)

 

You can use aluminum as a spacer but you'll still need a steel washer under the bolt head.

 

Asking for comments : Would it possibly be better to machine steel spacers of the appropriate thickness as a one piece "washer" rather than use multiple washers (especially mixing hardened steel & aluminum washers?) on the same torqued bolt? How would that affect the torque values, if at all?

 

The washers need to be of like hardness as the bolt. Mixing an aluminum spacer with steel washers wont have any affect as making the spacers out of steel, but they would also have to be as hard as the bolts.

 

There may be a new player coming to the big 4 cylinder world. It should make good power. It was displayed at the PRI show this weekend.

 

Piston oilers, deep head bolts and 3" Ford size mains so turbo capable. They say on facebook 340 hp/500 tq with turbo so I assume they will probably offer manifolds. Doesn't say if hyper eutectic or forged pistons. Also doesn't say if roller cam or flat tappet.

 

Some land speed friends of mine have done a lot of work with BluePrint the last few years. One of them told me this weekend that when they were at the factory earlier this year, he saw an Iron Duke style short block with a Windsor head. So, there may be more of this coming from them.

If they offered an aluminum block that takes a Cleveland/Windsor head, game on...

 

I would be all in on that LS style one