I haven't had my daily banger fix... and I can't believe I'm the first one to the party! I gathered all my stuff for nickle plating and I'm bringing it to the platers tomorrow. Hopefully I'll have the engine all cleaned up and painted, ready for the shiny parts this weekend. We'll see though, there's a serious pile of A front and rear axles blocking the project. Anyhow... Here is the banger link list . For the HAMB banger newbies, here are some links to a lot of banger info: Flat Ernie maintains the monthly link list. Every month is listed: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=161498 Banger basics. another info link list: http://www.fordgarage.com/ http://www.plucks329s.org/index.htm http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=251717 http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=42480 Post #105 of link below shows flywheel lightening dimensions http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...=470853&page=6 Elrod's stuck head tech: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=218487 Model A generator to alternator conversion: http://ejwhitneyco.com/automotive.html Gear ratio / speed and RPM calculator: http://www.accuautoparts.com/calculatorfin.jsp Model A master cylinder mounting bracket ideas: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...73#post4953173 Go here to read the 1931 edition of Harry Ricardo's book "The High Speed Internal Combustion Engine" http://www.scribd.com/full/40610101?...icdancrnxypd05 Chevy Banger Stuff http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=463465 http://www.scribd.com/doc/22469332/T...e-Ricardo-1931 Post 198 starts a great discussion of the shape of a flat head combustion chamber http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...470853&page=10
My T speedster sits in the barn, snow is a little over half way up the wheels on my old '46 Chevy pickup. Wind is 30-40 mph. -12 predicted tonight. Can't wait for March, it starts to warm up then!
It's really cold here too, about 66 degrees F. I could hardly stand the cold wind over my roadster windshield. I'm kidding, I know you guys are getting beat up back there. Stay safe. Look forward to reading through the banger thread this month.
On the way home from breakfast Saturday, mine decided that #1 and # 2 cylinders didn't need to work any more. Everything is working fine on the ignition side, now I need to check compression to see if I lost the head gasket. More info when I have it. .
Well guys, all my bangers have left the building. I have the remains of my old roadster that is currently getting a V8...I know, I know....either way, I do have one B left. The block is junk but if anyone needs any parts lemme know. I hope to have another Model A down the road
Nothing much to report here,.......cars not been out since New Years day http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=545659 Had some brake parts arrive this week (FlatheadTeds floater kit) but as im still on crutches there going to have to wait..... . .
I was gonna ask if it was swapping gasses Has anyone got the data to pantagraph the block for wire? Maybe TV Dan Use copper with ..... stainless is for sprint car Chevys Did you chamfer the head stud holes often this makes a big difference.
Chris : I missed something ! What happen to your coupe? I liked reading about things you had done to it Some day I will get my Pickup back on the road Skip
I sold it, it is somewere crossing the ocean heading to Australia. I jerked the B out of my 33 pickup in favor of a V8, and same with my A roadster! I am letting you guys down!!!!!
Chris, the roadster looks bitchin' with the early grille! I snagged a repop Winfield banger head out of the classifieds a little bit ago and I am anxiously it's arrival at the end of the week. It will go in my T roadster if I ever get my truck done.
Yep, as Bluto said I have the makins to wire a banger head. Have done 3 or 4.--TV PS. We use a soft SS .035, go around all cylinders and around the outside edge also. Works Great
Tom I really like copper in these grooves ..... a customer not take my advice and the stainless wire cracked the block! Honest we had to take the motor out and apart and surface it ..... do the whole job over. Asked him WHY? ''Oh I didn't want it to rust'' Copper don't rust the head gasket was made of copper! Best day for me was when he sold the car Soft stainless? maybe but I like copper easy to cut an file flush, easy to shape ...... just the way it do it See you soon We can discuss this over a cold one..... It's coffee time in the froze east
The wire is proud about .015-.020 I think in your case it might be better to "wire" the block .... that way you can change heads without having to wire each one. Same data will work on block as head. Dan do you torque the studs into the block? And use sealer? Have you 'pinned' the head gasket to insure it's location is repeatable?
Bluto, The reason he cracked the block was he had to much stick up??? You are pushing on the gasket and you only need about .005 to .007 crush. I'm sure copper wire works just as well, but you must use more stick up with it. I guess its all in what you get usta using and setting up properly.--TV I will take you up on the COLD ONE. See you soon.
Jeeeeeeez Tom that was 20 years ago..... I'd have to look in my notes but I do remember doing what Isky recommends. We run thick tri-layer gaskets and the bores were very close together. Same guy also managed to pull a helicoil out of a plug hole too Nice guy but he brought a brand spanking new enclosed race car trailer and the car was too low to go in it...... Just a total 'train wreck'
Me and Steve Serr: http://www.millerhi-speedheads.com/transadapter.htm http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=256226 http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5468 But I'm bias. .
Thanks for the info. I don't want to pull this block so the head will be the way to go. If I use .035" wire is the grove .035"? I use a new "sandwich" gasket every time, so I don't see a need to pin it. I don't bottom out the studs and I use sealer. I haven't had the head off since you mentioned the chanpher trick last year. I will do it this time. .
I just lay the wire on the block between 1 and 2 another between 3 and 4. I use a 2" piece of .012-.014 Copper wire and a little dab of grease to hold it in place. I have an old Winfield head that has been prick punched. I ran it with a plain $8.00 black composite gasket. It blew after a few runs at a " proud" helicoil. I had wires between the cylinders. 4" bore. Actually, it blew at a hill climb when the clutch was dropped at 3000 RPM's. This was at 9 to 1.
If you use .035 wire, the groove needs to be a little wider so the wire has some room to move out instead of holding up the head. Same issue with a rubber O ring. --TV
Craz It's never about what one wants to do but more about what the motor needs. Saves you time and money in the long run and breaking down can ruin your day Please check and see if the block needs surfaciing. Are all the studs taking torque well? Pinning the gasket has nothing to do with reusing but more is about properly locating the gasket...... it a gasket 'hangs over' and edge you will not only have sealing problems but pre-ignition too On that subject .... if you have threads in the plug holes or the plugs threads showing you may have problems ... more compression more problems. These glow and light off the fuel at the wrong time. With the head off have a look.... you can control the pluch height with washers. Champion used to sell them in various widths
Did somebody say cold beer? Hey, when Bluto shows up, we should have a SoCal HAMB Bangers Suds Fest! I'm in! Jess so it isn't on one of my race weekends. Bluto! You set the pace. If it's cold and rainy, we can get in motorhomes. I had our whole race group (7 drivers, some with wives/girl friends) in mine in steamy Coronado last September. JOHN
The advantages of boxing a banger chassis and adding a x or k member I have always wondered about the wisdom of adding a floater motor kit to a stock chassised banger Henry designed both Ts and As with the motor being part of the chassis what are your thoughts and recomendations?
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