OD, ID and thickness are required plus the ID of the 26 spline center of the centers application I fun a Ford center and GMC outside in my truck ........ The Ford trans is the only one strong enough to live behind my 302 Them will construct and size and combination needed
earthquake death toll will be in the hundreds helped recover bodies not only the central city but the suburbs have been hit rescue is getting into swing help from worldwide thanks fellas
earthquake update 113 dead over 220 missing I hope this includes the dead one third of the central city will need demolishing good news is power to 80% water to 50% best news around 700 international rescue teams no politics Chinese American Australian and British working side by side why cant it always be like this many many thanks to these people we cant do it by ourselves there are still strong after shocks and stress but we are getting through it.
hi Jeff there is plenty of water some areas are almost untouched it is just they are not letting the message out seem the cathedral and arts center are more important than the people of Christchurch Brighton people are setting up their own help center to hell with mr lacy underpants
Hi, I wanted to get my banger question in before the month changes. I saw a model a engine with chrome acorn nuts holding the head down. Thought it would look sharp on my red engine. Anyone know where I could get them? Thanks.
Just Google "Chrome head nut caps" or try Restoration Supply. I used them on my 2 port to cover grade 8 bolt heads. Then I thought "Gee all them other bolt heads look like s--t now" So away I went to my McMaster Carr catalog and I cut pieces of threaded stock and when I was through all of the exposed bolt heads were now studs with polished SS Acorn nuts. This was back when I was only 70 and had a lot more get up and go, now I don't care if a bolt looks like s--t! I'm putting this engine in an old rusty 29 RPU so my wife can drive it to the mail box daily.
Bill just 70 im 60 feeling like 90 word of warning on chrome nuts some decorative nuts are just that soft brass with no strength and will pull if used in high tension positions safety first
First, did you suffer any damage in the recent quake? Second, I have corrected my earlier post as I had given the wrong web page. The firm I thought I was referring to is Restoration Supply Company or RSC. They have a full line of Acorn nuts for automotive use. Also a great resource for most other vintage restoration supplies. I would hope that most of the people that post on this forum would consider the strength of materials when purchasing fasteners. For those that don't, live and learn! I ran a Winfield head that had been milled approx. .200 so I made .200 spacers out of 3/4" 304 stainless steel because I had a 12' bar of it. I thought they looked pretty shiny so I bought some 304 SS nuts and polished them and put them on. They seemed to hold that 9 to 1 compression okay. I use grade 5 and or grade 8 if I have them if I don't I use something out of the drawer full of old bolts and nuts. I shoot real old guns too!
i have the crome caps best 12 bucks you can spend on your engine compartment took the coupe for a pretty good burn last sunny day we had what a relief to finaly drive more than just around the nabor hood
Looking at this as a machinist you guys want to make sure the thread doesn't bottom out inside the acorn nut. Might have to cut a thread or two off the stud or add washers to take up space.
Just Plain Bill minor damage myself no water but can get some easy my partner Miss Jilly has lost her house so is living here with her sons have been helping out today at the local old peoples home moral was down but they are ok
Rusty, sorry to hear of your problems, Hope it turns out okay for all. Realize it can't be for those that lost someone. If you shop around you can find "High Hat" acorn nuts. When my 2 port came back from Taylors they had supplied grade 8 bolts and sent me some o those plastic caps. I would not be afraid to run or use the proper acorn nuts. I wouldn't expect to find them at the local hardware store. I would check the depth out if I was going to the extra expense involved.If you take the time to download the catalog from Restoration Supply or use RSC you will see the a collection of all kinds of "Old Timy stuff" Odd fasteners, Electrical connectors, Dimmer switches, and quite an assortment of them chrome plastic caps. Plus a listing of the correct size of Acorn head nuts for classic cars with all of the dimensions.McMaster Carr is a good source for regular SS acorn nuts. So what if they cost a little more, "It's only a hobby" Most of the holes, other than the head studs and maybe the water inlet, in the A B blocks are through holes so a little extra is not going to hurt. On things like the timing and valve chamber cover I cut the studs at the proper length and installed the nut and washer and screwed them up to the required torque. Think about all that extra work! I got started and everywhere I looked was another bolt that needed to be made into a stud. I am assuming that those that read and post here are very or at least fairly accomplished mechanics. So I post to that level. We are not working on Swiss watches or Offenhauser engines here. Well most of us aren't. We are working, for the most part on rather crudely designed old engines made back when cast iron and labor was cheap.
Ok kinda searched the thread a bit about leakless waterpumps. i didnt build the motor in my car. It has a leakless water pump and when i first got it i greased the rear fitting while greasin the car. the rear brass main "slotted" nut leaks. Im just gettin around to fixing it. I pulled the whole pump and fan off in one. pulled the fan lock nut off. i tapped on the main shaft at the fan end a few times while holdin the pully/fan assembly in my hand. it got about 1/4 inch of slop now from the water pump housing but before i tap the hell out of it i want to make sure theres no lock c clip on the front of the shaft? in order to replace the leakless water pump rear seal (brass non packing style ) u take the fan and pully off in order to slide the shaft out of the back of the hole housing correct? just didnt want to booger anything up cause i dont know how the thing was put together any help would be appreciated
few pics of the car now that i fit the grill on the new radiator and put the hood back on. but now its all torn back apart again haha
Thanks for the support guys things are now starting to get done some are still worried about building churchs but the homeless are now getting help. Acorn nuts harley D supplies or boat chandlers[supplies] both have most common supplies. Water pumps it is often cheaper in the long run to buy either a new or rebuilt one from the likes of Sac vintage Ford the work is done and paid for and they cant afford to supply rubbish. Chins up keep on trucking Rusty
the pump is new haha i just happened to grease the rear fittin when i shouldnt have just need to replace the seal if htat clears things up
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