I think it's a valid thread....I've asked on other FED threads questions on the gas rails of the early 60's (what was running during fuel ban) as well as what were the main differences in chassis', bodies, length's, etc between TF and Jr. Fuelers. Never got answers. A shorter WB rail (under 140") running gas or alcohol almost seems "doable" for a regular guy, but seems to be little info....everyone is so wrapped up in Top Fuelers.....
I'd say yes to needing this thread, but there is also lots of info on building an afordable FED over on this thread. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=430809
I think that to get a certification to run quicker than 10.00 you must build the cage area (from the motorplate back) to the SFI spec and the slowest spec for FEDs is the 7.50. They allow many small differences but basically two types (transisition or double hoop) with either 5 or 6 point roll bars. They call out material size and thickness. All 4130 and all TIG welded. You can do pretty much anything you like from the motorplate forward. Min. WB around 100", max is 225" Front of car is up to the track tech. inspectors. Hope this is accurate. Mike
k-88's have what I'm after. These were all stolen from the Chassis Research social group. Soon as I get the SFI specs I'll contact the local inspector with the question.
We're at 133" wheelbase and will have an injected SBC. Basically what would have been a C/Dragster in the early 60's. I haven't updated it in a couple weeks (look for that to change!) but I have a blog about the build here: http://rocinanteridesagain.wordpress.com/ We're mere mortals in terms of talent and experience, so the blog might appeal to someone going down this path for the first time as well...
Do you have any rear cage shots of the Chassis Research cars? I think the whole issue is going to be how you join the rear crossmember to the framerails. The way I read the rules it's that the lower framerail needs to be contiguous not that it has to be actually one piece of material. Obviously any joints need to be properly done. So the problem as I see it is what is the proper way to join 1.75" to 3" tube? As far as an X brace, that short wb w/3" framerails I can't see that it needs one structurally. If it has to be done as a rules satisfier have the back of the X line up with the radius rod mounts and use it to hold the fuel tank.
Interesting threads. Thanks for starting the group. Been acquiring parts etc. for a FED for some time now.
A lot depends on your NHRA Tech inspector. I've become friends with a guy who is also building a Dragmaster. He has the same saddle rear end mount as mine and his teched to 7.50. :-/ I think I'm going to contact NHRA tech in CA and see what they have to say about the continuous lower tube.
pics of the back of a C.R., and then pics of modern "transition" and "hoop" anybody got a good shot of the back of a Dragmaster? Kerry?
OK, you asked for it. Here are some shot's of the original Dragmaster chassis's Here are some shots of a car that Dode Martin built and is currently legal. Jimmy Osborne drives it. Here is a car that Jeff Degrandis is currently building that he got teched to 7.50 And here is what I put together.
Thanks Kerry! those Dragmasters require a little studying to see where everything is going. gives me some ideas though.
could some of you guys post "cockpit" shots, I'm getting to that point and I would like some ideas for layout, you know gauges switches pedals and the like. Pictures like this.
NHRA changed the rules in 1963........"all dragsters must have a sprung front end" that's when Scotty started adding springs to his TE 440.......plus it was at that time when he toured the U.S. or I should say the midwest and saw how bad the tracks were and changed his mind on unsprung front ends........so that is why there are not many unsprung cars left..........in order to run after '63 you had to spring your front end. Or just park it in the barn...............
So Kerry, was the dropout for the rear axle the only issue with your car? What did they use for an anti-rotation device? It's odd to me that the DeGrandis chassis seems to be lacking proper kidney bars, sympathetic inspector?
Rigid mounted front axles were permitted on gas dragsters, econo dragsters, altereds and nostalgia dragsters in 2008 with a wheelbase of 120" or more. That's the newest rulebook I have.
He didn't even look further than that. :-/ That's why I think I'm going to call up the NHRA guys in CA. The originals didn't have an anti rotation device that I know of. I made a plate that bolts to the pinion support on the top and a tube below it. Jeff went to the tech guys saying he wanted to build as close to the original Dragmaster as possible. The tech guys told him to add this and change that. He didmake it clear to them he didn't plan on running under 10's.
I'm still pluggin my new Slingshot racing series. Five races in Tulsa, Oklahoma this summer. HERE'S THE LATEST SCHEDULE: May 1st. -- FED/Alt #1 June 5 -- FED/Alt #2 July 10 -- FED/Alt #3 August 14 -- FED/Alt #4 Sept. 25 -- FED/Alt #5 (Nitro Nationals)
Thanks McTim! I tinkered on her some today. I got the neutral safety switch in the shifter and got it mounted up. I really haven't been happy with the way the cockpit fit. I moved the steering wheel up about 1 1/2 inches. I'm taking the guages out of the cockpit, not going to run a tach, and have the oil pressure guage on the engine. Really opens it up and makes steering a lot easier. I also got the shifter cable and linkage hooked up. Made a quick steel line to loop back at the trans since I'm not running a cooler. Mounted and hooked up the main battery connector to the starter. This is a quick disconnect for starting only. Oh yeah, I also made a gauge pod for the oil pressure guage to be mounted on the engine. I was thinking of pushing to get her started today on a 4 bbl to break in the cam but other things keep popping into my head like the cockpit. I should get her running this week.
Hey Kerry, Not to second guess any of your work, but might I suggest that you consider mounting the nuetral safety switch to the trans. I did as much with the thinking being that if anythign ever goes whacky with the shifter, linkage, cable, etc - none of that would interfere with the nuetral safety switch operating properly. Yeah - it's been said I overthink things....... anyways just thought I'd mention it.
For the cockpit view request - here's mine - not a very good pic but you get the idea. I've changed it a little since this pic - I added a shift light - no tach. 1. The KILL switch in the left disconnects the battry & kills the MAG --green LED indicates it's on 2. The red FIRE knobs - 1 per bottle. 3. The black START switch cranks the motor - since this pic I machined a little shroud for it so you can't ever hit it by accident. 4. MAG KILL only kills the mag -useful for when you want to crank themotor over and NOT fire it up. Since this pic I added one of those red aircraft switch covers - makes it REAL easy to flip off. 5. Shifter I made on the right (copied from a pic I saw) 6. FUEL shutoff on the right. 7. Parachute releases on the left - pull the FRONT one deploys BOTH chutes - pull the REAR one and deploy only 1 chute.
Hey Kerry, I was on the fence about the trans cooler - I'm sure I don't need one, but I figured it couldn't hurt. Here's a pic.
I will try to get some pics up, controll placement was a big question for me too. Every car I looked at was different so I just pieces together what felt right at the time. Mag kill switch on the butterfly, shift light on the manifold on the right side of the stacks, neutral safety on the trans. Shifter on the right side of the cage, fuel shut off on the pumpkin mounted to the fill cap, and parachute on the left side. Later when I added a battery the starter switch got mounted to the shifter and a master kill switch mounted on the fuel pump boss with a morse cable to the back of the car. You have to wire in a relay to kill the mag with a ground when you use that set up, painless makes a good one.
A lot of this does not apply to our car so I don't have much to post. We have no battery, no shutoff at the rear of the car, no trans cooler ect... I would not run a trans cooler for the simple reason if a leak developed you'd have a mess, it would be all over you and your face going down track and possibly under the tires. If your not sitting and stalling the converter I don't think the trans will get that hot. I would run a blanket on the trans also. Just because. These are just my thoughts and for entertainment purposes only.
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