He does not, but I documented most of the build he did on my FED on my web site , towards the end I missed some stuff, but will someday go back and add it. Here is the link http://www.leverfamilysite.com/2010_Front_Engine_Dragster_Root.htm Fire up videos http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VyxcAcBJTGc BETTER ONE http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PLTuVDhOotw
Like the FED thread going here.I'm a FNG to HAMB but read a ton over the last year or so.I just puchased my first dragster it's a 192" cm roller.I bought it with the steering completely removed from the car.Managed to locate a PS box from a racer friend.My car is rh steering which doesn't seem to be the norm.(I was so excited the day I bought it I didn't ask why)Not sure on the best way to mount the box I know it has to be mounted on a solid cross member but should I weld it in or bolt it to tabs? This is my first dragster previously raced door cars so any info is a help. Here's a few pics of my car.
Not sure why your car would have right side steering unless the box was a modified passenger car unit. You may have to swap the steering arm to the left spindle to get the P & S box to work. Here are a couple of pix of how most box install look. Having the cross member bolted in can be a benefit if you want to pull the transmission out through the top of the frame rather than raising the car enough to get it out the bottom. The mounting bracket in the photos is a McKinney piece that will fit the P & S box as the SPE, Strange and Flaming River boxes all have the same mounting bolt pattern. Murf has the bracket available in a couple of configurations (above and below the tube) and Neil and Parks also have a nice one available. Brendan Murry's NT/F car Glenn Lever's car (carshopowner here on the HAMB- see his earlier post) Roo ps Love the big radius cowl
That is our car, and we're here in Sacramento. We originally looked at redoing an old car, but the problem if you want to run it is 45 year old tubing makes it a crapshoot. So we decided to just start from scratch so we knew it would cert and be usable for years to come without worrying about having to replace a bunch of tubing through the years. Plus we could have it built the way we wanted. Brian is a great guy to work with, and we wanted to be sure we had the same cage layback that the old cars did with single bend tubing, even though it's a 5 point cage - rather than the double-bend sit up and beg cages that get put on so many updated cars. Since we're just planning on running it for fun more than to be competetive, getting the looks spot on was important to us. This is as much a hot rod project as it is a race car. As it stands, we're going to run a basically stock hilborn-injected small block on alky- I'm guessing it will run mid to high 9's, and all said and done I would imagine we'll have $20K into it. Dean
Thanks for the photos Roo and Carshopower.It probly was an old manual box cause when I bought it all the guy said was that it just wasn't right in the car and he didn't like it.I should be able to just mount the PS upside down and flip the pitman arm down shouldn't I?It would save all of the cutting and welding of the steering linkage brackets is all. I've wanted one of these cars for as long as I can remember so I'm in no rush to get it out their.I enjoy working on it probly more than I will bracket bashing it around here.
What's your thoughts on that guys it would save me a ton of work not to mention I'd have to fill the hole in the body paint etc. A manuel would work the same inverted wouldn't it?
It might work, seems a little slip shod. I would worry about it leaking fluid, for the money and piece of mind a new box seems to me to be the way to go.
Great thread So here are my question, I have a double lever for engaging chute & fuel-shutoff. Does anybody recognize this one? Homemade or a known speed part? Thanks. ............................... Taildragger&fenderless
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hey everyone, im just about to put my new engine together but i would like some opinions on my cam , the engine is a small block chevy, 350 block, bored and stroked to a 396 with 3.875 stroke 6 inch rods and 14-1 pistons, i have brodix -8 heads ported to 210cc runner with 2.10 in valves and 1.60 ex, they have 67cc chambers,full solid roller 1.5 rockers with girdles ect. and gear drive, im running a 2 3/16 hilborn mech stack injector, on m5 methanol, the cam im looking at is a herbert roller small base circle, specs are: RPM Range: 5000-9000 Advertised Duration: 325/340 Duration @ .050: 290/300 Lift: .690/.655 Lobe Center: 110c Lash: .025-.025 im looking to see if i should add the 4x7 swap, whats your takes? thanks, john.
Hey John glad to see the new engine is getting ready to go together cam sounds like a good ghoice I am running an Engle in my 377. Here are its specs. Intake .683 Ex .678 duration 314 and 308 degrees. Lobe centers 110 and 106.5. I have talked to a couple of engine builders and they could take or leave the 4/7 swap. I shift at 7800 and have run a best of 5.23 in the 1/8 and 8.45 in the 1/4. I think that Don Johansen is still grinding cams for Herbert. He is the MAN when it comes to cams I would go with what he recommends.
1968FED i see your chassis is a jim davis, as is mine,1967, i went with it as ground, no 4x7 swap, my rear ratio is 4.56 with hoosier 12x33 and i run a powerglide, projected e.t. is 8.08 at 168mph at 8000rpm thru the lights,im at sea level. the injector is all i have, but its been flowed and prerun on another motor, will take slight pill adjustment from here, it has the flow to do it, it has been ported and gasket matched to a felpro 1207 as the heads. thanks for your replys, i didnt think the 4x7 would be helpful on alky but wanted to be sure, so with yours and the tech guy from herbert cams i just got it as ground, thanks again... john.
Thanks Lippy If you remember where it came from, holler out Almost everyone who sees it, whants to know where it came from I modified it abit, as it shut of the fuel at the same time i released rhe chute. Br Kjell .............................. Taildragger&fenderless
Give some history. What car is this on, who built it, and around when? I never knew of anything like this being manufactured. My guess is it's a fabricated one of a kind. Tom S.
I have a choice of two rearends for my old style fed, both are the right width, got a stock early olds (open) and an 8" with a spool, which should I use?
#231; " I have a choice of two rearends for my old style fed, both are the right width, got a stock early olds (open) and an 8" with a spool, which should I use? " What about the rest of the car, motor wise ? Clutch ? High gear or transmission too ? Tires ? Axel splines a little tougher in the Ford and it will have a better option for ratios and spare parts, like differential-spider gears if you need to go that route. But, Olds was the industry standard back in the day. Tom S. in Tn.
correction; After looking back after posting above, I see this is an 8" and not a 9" like I first thought. Ratio availability will not be as good as for a 9"either, so that's not a factor. Sorry for the confusion. addendum; Are you certain that's a spool in the Ford ? Mini spool inside stock carrier ? Those axels look like big Ford spline. Tom S. in Tn.
When you say "early Olds" are you talking about a '49 small housing (used in dragsters) or the later big housing (used in heavier gassers & altereds). The later big Olds rear ends have parts available like a coupler,spool, gears,bearings etc. whereas the smaller type does not and from past expeiriance's no one makes a coupler (strange,mark williams,lenco)and had to deal with that issue last year. I dont know what the situation is in England ,but you are better off with a 8 3/4 Chrys rear end. Same physical size as an early Olds rear end , pinion hight is the same. Gears,spool,couplers,bearings all available and will hold up to 6.90 ets
Hi Tom. It has been on my 150" dragster since it came together in the late 80's. It was bought in boxes in Minnesota. The dragster was put together by Don Groff. We don't have any other history on it, sorry. If it is one-off, then it must be someone really skilled Thanks. Br Kjell .............................. Taildragger&fenderless
Hey guys Ive always loved the FEDs but dont know a lot of info on them. Did any of you guys who drove them in the 50's-60's and today think "wow my balls are resting against the rear end"?
#236; " Hi Tom. It has been on my 150" dragster since it came together in the late 80's. It was bought in boxes in Minnesota. The dragster was put together by Don Groff. We don't have any other history on it, sorry. If it is one-off, then it must be someone really skilled Thanks. Br Kjell " I'd bet this is a one-off. Very good craftsmanship however. I'm not familiar with Don Groff. Was this a comp or pro-comp car? If it was built in the late 80's, it was probably one of the very last conventional cars of the time. I quit in 1980, and we had a rear engine car since 74. I've seen the plow handle addition on the brake lever for fuel shutoff before, primarily inf funny cars or altereds, but never adjacent to the chute release. How do you like using this setup? Tom S. in Tn.
Thank's Tom The dragster is an old one ca 1966 modell, Don bought it along with alot of parts. He put it together and run a short periode of time, than i redid it nameing it Mitty's Past Gas, painted it yellow with an injected Hemi. He than took the hemi out, and sold it. The new owner painted it purple, put in a flathead, and renamed it Roadkill Express. You can look into my thread on the my project http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=531757 I really like the fuel/chute engagers. It's small and compact, and it look good I did however, modify it so i can release the chute, and still run the engine, cut off the fuel a litle later on, as the track are so long! Kjell ................................ Taildragger&fenderless
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