Technical The finer points of MiG welding machines.

Hobart 140 great for thin sheet metal

 

I've had a Hobart Handler 140 for over twenty years and it keeps plugging along just fine. That said it doesn't get used a lot....although patching that Studebaker together should have worn it out. We have .023 wire in it all the time and the other bigger welder a Lincoln 256 is what my wife uses for her"stuff". The Hobart is just for thin stuff.

 

The first 25 years of my working life I spent behind a hood with a torch in my hand as a (shop) iron worker Fitter/welder. Mostly just tacking with mig, but at times having to be certified stick or intershield, depending on the job(s). Second half of work life spent in comfy spaces as manager, engineer, draftsmen,aerospace software instructor. Retired, bought a new Lincoln mig and commenced to rebuild (my Way) MY 34. That marvelous
little red machine never failed me in the years it took me to get-her-done, and ran every bit as good as those big Hobarts in the huge shops I worked my ass off in my early life. My grandson last summer went to the local community college welding school, (Green River for those in my area and know who I am), now has his certification(s), so he now has that red monster of a little red wire feeder Lincoln machine.

 

Miller 210 for me also. Sure there are other good welders, but can’t go wrong with Miller.

 

Which one, how long ago, inverter or older tech, variable voltage or detent taps ?

 

Are you guys talking about the MP 210
Multi process

 

Ours is a Miller 210 MIG only
At least 15 years old

 

Mine is like Anthony’s. About 15 years old also.

 

In the late eighties I bought a new Solar welder, I forget what company actually made it but they made Snap On welders, plasma cutters and battery chargers also. Any how I dropped what I thought was big money on this welder that was suitable for the 26 gauge galvanized sheet metal in the newer cars we had in the shop. I’ve never been disappointed with the quality of the machine, I’m not a fan of a thousand spot welds to put a panel on but I stitch one inch at a time. It’s faster definitely more solid and the small amount warpage is controllable. Being able to strike an arc on a galvanize panel is something that is just required at times.
The only downside to the machine is its size, it’s full size and heavy. I have never had to repair the welder other than replacing gun linners and finally the gun. I sold the shop but kept the welder, it’s more than I need now but it’s not worth anything so It will be around.

 

We had Solar welders in the early 90s
Worked great

 

Century manufactured the welders for solar and for a while snap on.

 

My Snap On welder isn't Century built. Having trouble remembering the company name.
Maybe Systematics

 

Lincoln Handy Mig here. 120 volt. So far I’ve only ran flux core through it, but it’s done everything I asked it to do. Still need to get a tank to run mig wire.

 

Do they still sell machines that are not inverter technology?

 

Mine is a Lincoln 180C, it's dual voltage although I've only run it on 240. It's about 8 years old and has been flawless.
The 140C and the 180C have decent quality wire drives, rheostats for power and wire speed and an on/off switch, that's it.

 

I don’t know, the counter guys don’t know
The guys at the repair shop don’t think so.

I’m not against the inverter because it’s an inverter. Im against the delays and ramp ups. The same counter guys don’t know and can’t tell me anything “about the finer points of welding machines”. So I ask do you have a try it before you buy it set up? No. The only place is Eastwood.

So far everyone including me loved theirs that the bought long ago.

 

Had an old Snap-On 212 unit, that got fussy. Bought a new Miller 210. Don't like the delayed start, at all! Fixed a broken fan on the Snap On and use that most of the time!

 

I have a Miller 141 I bought about 5 years ago. 115 volt w/gas bottle. I think it is an inverter machine, but it works the same as my old Miller mig. I use it almost every day, in a commercial setting, mostly for rust repair/customizing, tack, tack, tack. No delay to start. It has an "autoset" feature, but I don't use it on thin stuff. It does everything I need it to.
These welders have been replaced by a newer model, but are still available.

 

I'm a Miller guy, but I got a really good deal on an ESAB EM 215ic a few years ago. I decided that the welding gun and cord on my Miller 350P was large and harder to finesse on thin stuff.........and basically I was just too lazy to change the rollers and liner back and forth for thin work. So I bought the Esab. Its a nice machine for what I want. The gun is smaller and the lead is lighter..........which is perfect for thin work. It'll do heavier stuff, but I like the feel of it. So I was gonna reccomend it. But it appears they don't make that anymore. I did have an initial problem because I bought one someone had returned after using only one time. It quit. Called tech and they checked me thru the troubleshooting. Still didn't work. So they shipped me a replacement immediately. Very happy with their support.

So what it appears to me is that they have added a "P" to the names of many of their welders.....and I think that means "programable". I'd say whatever brand you choose, look for one that isn't programable.........then you avoid a lot of unneeded stuff like delayed starts. You might want to look at the ESAB 210 EM (Not EMP)

https://www.weldingsuppliesfromioc....m 210&utm_content=ESAB EM 210 MIG Only Welder

I'd also take a look at a Primeweld on Amazon.



I'm happy with this one.........

 

I think most if not all smaller machines are now inverter technology. Maybe if you step up to a larger commercial style machine it may not be.

I have nothing against inverter technology as I don't think it's the inverter, its all the stupid features they tack on it. Kinda like trying to buy a car without power windows or door locks today.

My prime weld tig is inverter and has stood up great for the last few years, so I'd look at a cheaper smaller welder without all the "extras". Welding sheet metal I'd doubt you'd be taxing the welder and hitting its work load limits all the time.

In fact I'm looking at the smaller prime weld mig just to have to run .023 wire and sheet metal only welding....

BTW i went and looked at when i got my Primeweld tig, it was april 2020 so i know where i spent that income tax refund check! So it been close to 4 years!


...

 

Not sure if this will be sacrilege or not, but a few years back I picked up a Vulcan 215 from Harbor Freight. I've got it running on 220v and 75/25 gas and it runs like a Singer sewing machine. Works great for body work and will burn it in hot enough for some heavy work as well.

 

I had really bad luck with a Tweco Fabricator 211i (ESAB) multi-process welder, ended up spending more time being repaired under warranty than being used. I have had and used a Hobart Handler 140, great welder for thinner metals. I now have a HF Titanium Unlimited 200, but only use it for MIG. It's served me well for the last couple of years, probably 5-6 11lb rolls though it, mostly 0.023 and 0.030. Cost was my factor for the HF choice. I have a Weldpro TIG machine and when the HF MIG dies, I'll get a Weldpro MIG. All of this to state (the obvious) that I am not a professional welder, but was taught in high school and have been welding since.

 

What is the skinny on these Weldpro welders? Quality or just like harbor freight Chinese macheenz?

Ive never heard of them.

 

Miller 211

 

I've ran Lincoln my whole life. I've used Hobart and Miller, they were all good welders. My current mig is a Lincoln 175, it's had countless liners put in it, 4 or 5 new guns etc... but when it goes to that big welder graveyard in the sky, I'm gonna do my financial best to get an esab, I played with one at a display booth and was blown away.

 

One thing I'd look for on any Mig welder is that the Amp knob is infinitely adjustable rather than one that has preset steps. Definite sign of cost cutting, and with thin sheetmetal its good to be able to set it a little lower or a little higher rather than the next click.

 

Someone probably already mentioned it; but guy up at the garage just bought a Lincoln Weld-Pak 140 and the wire starts right away.

 

Mine is Amish made

 

Ekimneirbo is absolutely correct. Make damn sure that dials are fully adjustable and not four position. The ability to dial a setting down just a bit, instead of the next position helps alot.

 

I think fully adjustable dials vs steps is inverter vs transformer. I have a Millermatic 210. It has seven power settings and a speed dial for the wire feed. It is a transformer machine, the seven steps are seven taps on the transformer. Inverter machines have infinite (or a whole bunch of steps anyhow) adjustability through software and electronics. There are those that don't hold this part in high regard. I got my welder on closeout +- 20 years ago. The new technology was coming and the old had to go. Now, there seems to be a cult looking for transformer machines. No $400 replacement circuit boards and such. I got mine with heavy cart, dual cylinder rack, and a spool gun. I have a cylinder for aluminum and one for steel. The spool gun is loaded for aluminum. You can go back and forth. I see clean ones, with none of the bells and whistles, selling for about what I paid. Right place, right time. I think Miller may even have reintroduced a transformer model since.
BTW, mine has no pause.