Thanks, Joey! Found a couple of issues I need to fix before a road test, but damn I’m excited to get it out there!
Finally grew the cajones to drive it around the block today. The wife and I are both still alive, so I’m putting this one in the “W” column. I’ll post a video in the next couple of days to show progress. to say that I’m excited is an understatement!!!!!!!!
I couldn’t find the trunk hinge (stock version) so I made one to mount the deck lid until I find something cooler
Don't know what kind of hinges you have in mind but an old memory popped in my head of my Dad's 1958 Morris Minor trunk hinges that might give you one idea
None of them last very long - especially if you have water hit the headers. A much better approach is to buy some high-temp V-Series Cerakote. You have to media blast the headers and pay close attention to the prep and bake phase, but it is very doable at home (especially flathead headers - which are small). I just bake them in a BBQ at 500 degrees. Cerakote Coatings & Cerakote Swatch Samples | Shop All Products
Most of the paints ****. This is VHT, and I slowly heated them by running the engine longer and longer. I don't really care if they look perfect. I've had friends who used Cerakote, and hated it.
I personally hate headers primarily due to the pain with poor access to the bolts which leads to gasket failure not to mention unsightly rust & high temperatures in & around everything under the hood, my 32 Sport Coupe has full length headers that blistered the hood side louver area, & yes, probably time for a heat shield or a change altogether.
Took the roadster out for another drive last week (bad video that I won't post) and it was awesome, but I noticed something odd on the tire. Pulled the rear wheel and drum and realized that I've been hit by the leaky cylinder plague. Not just on that corner, but on all three corners with new wheel cylinders (the original Lockheed cylinder is perfect)... Called Jeff at Moose Motors and he's going to build me three new cylinders next week. Frustrating to just get it on the street and then back up on the rack...Ugh. I was tempted to use the Speedway SS lined cylinders, but apparently they can leak as well. Speedway is prompt to offer a replacement (if it's not backordered), and I was just not willing to go that route. Oh, and I painted the fender wells. I didn't want to bolt in the funky aftermarket things.
I could use some ideas: I’m using an Autometer fuel gauge in the stock location, but the hole in the tank is too small. I opened up the hole in the panel, but not sure how to open this one up. I tried the thin belt sander but that was SLOOOOOOWWW. Not sure how I could use a hole saw. I don’t have a die grinder (yet ). Any ideas would be greatly appreciated!
I did make a sort of jig for a hole saw, but not sure how well this might work. I’m hoping for some good ideas before I try this scary idea.
Ideally, you would want a thicker jig, on the backside, with a through/pilot hole for the drill bit. That way it keeps the blade (and drill) from wandering and changing angle.
Get a 1/4" air grinder and some carbide burrs. The grinders are cheap - ***uming you have an air compressor.
I was thinking about using 1/4" flat stock for the jig, but I don't think my hole saw could get through it. Probably what I'll do. I have a big enough air compressor. I have been wanting a die grinder for quite a while. Now may be the time.
Use wood for your jig. You can shape it to meet the shape of the sheet metal and set your angle. Could be 1 inch or more thick.
The Jalopy Journal
