Projects The Flathead Flathead

how funny-i've always remembered it as 'a for autolite!-'-still,think i was right about how to polarize each-but??

 

https://youtube.com/shorts/_xwaixD-O10?si=QAZ5DT-w9ULK11xn

https://youtube.com/shorts/gcBqDPtIi_8?si=esgwDvc1PEGBWH9z

Here’s a couple of quick videos to show what I’m dealing with on the generator charging

any ideas would be greatly appreciated

 

Where do you have each lead of the meter connected? Are the leads across the battery? It looks like in the second video that you are getting some output from the generator as the voltage moves upward. Could you have the digital meter connected backwards? That is strange operation the digital meter. I would definitely try another meter before moving ahead.

 

The engine rpm needs to be higher than low idle, I would check it at about 1000 rpm.
Also make sure the engine has a good ground to the structure

 

a good battery is about 12.6V with engine off, engine on and receiving a charge from generator is about 14V. A couple things,
- if your wiring has been verified correct, inspect inside of generator and look for worn brushes, weak brush springs, dirty contact, any other loose or broken connections
- check your multimeter by performing the same test on your daily driver, connect to battery with engine off (12.6V) turn on engine (14V)
- generator may need to be polarized
more here:
https://speedyjim.net/htm/gen.htm

 

Looks like it’s all been covered but I use a drawer full of hand files for making holes like that bigger but I’m sick in the head.

the wheel cylinders we touch on in joeys roadster thread and how to fix them, but looks like you’ve got that sorted.

the generator I would make sure that it’s been correctly polarized. It’s probably something stupid. Could even be a bad voltage regulator, I’ve had new ones bad right out of the box the last few years.


Always something, but it’s almost always something simple.

 

I tested the MM on my daily and everything checked out. So I took the generator out of the roadster and tested it. Resistance across the field is 8 Ohms, indicating a 12V generator. I applied 12V to the generator and it spins, and in the right direction. When I spin the generator with a drill and measure the voltage I only get about .3V. I called Jeff at Moose Motors and he’s going to take a look at it Monday. Hope it’s something simple.

 

I’m trying to figure out why my engine is running so rich. It’s exactly the same as what Vern had on the stand, with the exception that I am running an electric fuel pump rather than the mechanical one he broke it in with. Coil checks out. Condenser is good. Wires are the same. I don’t have a pressure regulator since it’s a low pressure pump, but that’s the only other thing I can think of. I’m ordering one today to see if it fixes the problem. Napa doesn’t carry the low pressure one any more so I guess I’ll get it from Speedway unless somebody has a better idea.

Another question: I’m running a Mallory flat top, and the middle rubber part isn’t grabbing the wires any more. Has anyone tried something to fix this?

 

Since you're running Stromberg carbs, you really should put in a fuel pressure regulator designed for low-pressure. You need a good fuel-pressure gauge on the outbound side of it - and the MAX fuel pressure should be 2 lbs.

Holley 12-804 Chrome Carbureted Fuel Pressure Regulator

 

Yeah 1.5-2 lbs and I bet it fixes the issue

 

@Bored&Stroked @Tim

thanks for the insights. I think it will as well. I just have to wait until I can get the regulator.

 

Figured out how to fix the wire retention. I got some O-rings that fit snug over the wires and put them between the rubber part and the cap bottom part. Now when I tighten the screws, the o-rings smash a bit and grab the wires. It’s a bit of a hack, but not too hack.
My pressure regulator arrives Wednesday, so I should have the fuel system back together.
Then it’s just waiting for the generator from Jeff.

 

Looks like a good fix.

 

Looks factory to me

 

Trying to diagnose my rich running. I have a friend with AF sensors that he’ll loan me. I took the tops off the carbs to see the float level. The front carb float isn’t parallel with the top. The rear carb float is parallel but it’s only .200 below the top surface of the bowl. Thoughts?

 

It appears the front float is bent just at the point where it attaches to the hinge.

 

Yeah I’d wager that float is the problem. Not related but neat clamps!

 

yeah. I think so, too.

thanks! Not Wittek clamps, but still not bad

I reached out to Stromberg to see if they would be able to help me with this

 

So the front wet level was very low. I made a gauge with the correct level and bent the float tab until the fuel level was correct. The rear was fine. I hope this helps along with the pressure regulator. I need new gaskets now, but I can wait since I have other stuff to do. I’ll also swap to my SP air horns when I put them back together.

 

What size jets are you running?
Low float level would tend to cause a lean condition

 

I should know that but I forgot, and didn’t write it down, so I’ll have to ask Vern what he used

 

When you do, write it down here in your build thread so when you forget again you have a spot to quick reference. I do it all the time

 

So I decided that the car was too loud with open exhaust for normal driving and when I need to leave early for events. I ordered Porter mufflers and exhaust pipe to byp*** the open headers for normal consumption. They will arrive this week and I want them installed by the next event which will be the debut for the car on 5/30. Hope I can get it all done by then.

 

Go man go!

 

Getting close!

 

If it’s running rich, when you jet it properly it will tone it down.

 

I give credit to David. I saw him at the show last Saturday and he recommended the Porters. He also said that even though it sounds great open, if you’re going to drive it much, it’s better to be a bit quieter. I’m sure my neighbors will appreciate it as well

 

One thing on the carbs, make sure the floats do not have any pin-holes in them. I always check to make sure they are not leaking fuel to the insides of them (which will cause them to not correctly close the fuel-inlet valve). Yours are probably fine . . .

Also, as CSPIDY noted, low fuel-bowl levels (which is what I saw) will make it run leaner, not richer.

Also, when you say it is running rich - how are you determining this? You can't determine that by running the engine, driving the car, coming back home and pulling plugs. Accurately reading plugs requires on-the-road load tests and today's fuels do not color the porcelain like in the good ole' days. That is why reading plugs is quite difficult.

Putting an O2 sensor (both sides) and running an AFR gauge (one side at a time) can really help in tuning. Strombergs don't have a lot of tuning options - so you'll find that once it is jetted correctly, it will be a bit rich at WOT (when the fuel enrichment valve is opened by the accel pump) - probably around a high 11 or low 12 AFR. That is fine . . . it is better to be a bit rich, than lean.

 

I’ve got bungs welded in the exhaust just behind the headers, and plan to borrow a buddies AF sensors, but he’s in Europe at the moment. If I can find some others I’ll check the AF ratio

Thanks for all the info and ideas guys. I appreciate it!