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Projects The Flathead Flathead

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Jeff34, Aug 30, 2021.

  1. Jeff34
    Joined: Jun 2, 2015
    Posts: 1,474

    Jeff34
    Member

    Here’s the before shots IMG_5857.jpeg IMG_5858.jpeg IMG_5859.jpeg IMG_5860.jpeg IMG_5861.jpeg
     
  2. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
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    Tim
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    from KCMO

  3. Jeff34
    Joined: Jun 2, 2015
    Posts: 1,474

    Jeff34
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    IMG_6195.jpeg IMG_6196.jpeg Added one more piece to the floor to cover a small open space. I was just going to cover it with insulation and carpet, but decided to add this small bit
     
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  4. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
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    Tim
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    Looks nice and clean!
     
  5. Jeff34
    Joined: Jun 2, 2015
    Posts: 1,474

    Jeff34
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  6. Jeff34
    Joined: Jun 2, 2015
    Posts: 1,474

    Jeff34
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    Good for now. Still needs more paint IMG_6197.jpeg IMG_6198.jpeg
     
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  7. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 21,573

    Tim
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    Just noticed your e brake set up! Did you cover that in an earlier post I missed?
     
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  8. Jeff34
    Joined: Jun 2, 2015
    Posts: 1,474

    Jeff34
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    not sure. I originally had it on the left side up against the kick panel, but when DiFalco drove it, he said it was really hard to use the clutch since the space was so tight. He suggested that I rotate it up under the dash and it turns out that it works great and is now almost invisible
     
  9. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 21,573

    Tim
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    @flatout51 had a similar handle in his roadster, can’t recall where it was located but horizontal how you have it is clever!

    next time your messing with the floor would you mind taking a photo of how it’s mounted?
     
    Jeff34 likes this.
  10. Jeff34
    Joined: Jun 2, 2015
    Posts: 1,474

    Jeff34
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    Back into build mode. Modifying the radiator to drop it down by 1-1.5” so I can add hood sides. Bonus, it will allow the belt to clear the lower hoses better. Also installing a PowerGen generator. Should be here Friday. May be able to use my stock fan pulley, or may need to order one from Speedway. Hopefully this solves a few issues. IMG_6208.jpeg
     
  11. Jeff34
    Joined: Jun 2, 2015
    Posts: 1,474

    Jeff34
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    haven’t forgotten about you @Tim. Just got too damn hot to keep going in the garage today
     
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  12. Jeff34
    Joined: Jun 2, 2015
    Posts: 1,474

    Jeff34
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    @Tim The floor is a compilation of wood and steel. I made the floor and the two pieces on either side of the transmission. The primered piece is welded to the firewall. The lower piece with the bell housing bump is screwed to the upper piece with captive nuts, and to the wood floor with screws and finish washers into T nuts. The small piece next to the clutch I just used existing screws. It needs a bit of filing since the clutch robs at the bottom. IMG_6210.jpeg IMG_6211.jpeg IMG_6212.jpeg IMG_6213.jpeg IMG_6214.jpeg IMG_6215.jpeg IMG_6217.jpeg IMG_6216.jpeg
     
  13. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
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    Tim
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    That’s gonna age with the car so well. Look like it’s been that way forever
     
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  14. Jeff34
    Joined: Jun 2, 2015
    Posts: 1,474

    Jeff34
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    IMG_6222.jpeg IMG_6221.jpeg IMG_6218.jpeg IMG_6219.jpeg My plan for the radiator is to first cut off the crank hole on the spring clamp to make more room to move the radiator down. Should be good for 1.5”. Maybe a little more. Then I’m going to cut and bend the mounting tabs on the radiator so it sits lower. I may need to extend the mounting tabs a bit to make it work. Then I’ll re-weld the bottom mounting tabs to the vertical frame piece once I’m happy with how it’s fitting. I’ll check as I go to make sure the hood top and sides fit and align, and that it’s square to the frame and cowl.
    Hope this works.
     
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  15. Jeff34
    Joined: Jun 2, 2015
    Posts: 1,474

    Jeff34
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    First cut at this. 1.25” drop on the radiator. Front seems right and the hood sides are really close. I’ll do more and see where I get in the next couple of days. IMG_6223.jpeg IMG_6224.jpeg IMG_6225.jpeg
     
  16. Tim
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    Looks sharp with the hood on!
     
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  17. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
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    Not radiator related but did the car ever get a pan hard bar?
     
  18. Jeff34
    Joined: Jun 2, 2015
    Posts: 1,474

    Jeff34
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    These are my thoughts, but I'm open to any opinions or thoughts from this more experienced group...
    I have not added a panhard bar. It tracks straight, turns well, and I haven't experienced any wobble (even on rough straights at speed). I still don't have front shocks, and I'm hoping that adding those will settle down the front end even more. I think my first line of defense if I see any instability of the front end would be to add a stabilizer.
     
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  19. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
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    Cool just curious.
    I’m sure the legs of your center cross member set up are helping a lot. No pan hard or boxing with stock cross members I could watch the drivers frame rail twist when turning the steering wheel even just sitting in the garage. I think the guys who get away with no pan hard have generally stiffened the ch***is up quite a lot.
     
  20. Jeff34
    Joined: Jun 2, 2015
    Posts: 1,474

    Jeff34
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    I get it. I welded a plate in the frame to mount the steering box, but I still get some flex when sitting in the garage. I do plan to box the frame behind the steering box back to the cowl to see if that helps. My guess is that it will help but not much. Cross bracing would be stronger but I don’t see a way to do that yet
     
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  21. Jeff34
    Joined: Jun 2, 2015
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    Jeff34
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    Modified the radiator to lower it and tack welded it. Put the hood and sides on and they line up nice. I’ll finish the welds tomorrow or Sunday and put it back together. Still waiting for larger wires for the powermaster and need a shorter belt
    IMG_6236.jpeg IMG_6237.jpeg IMG_6238.jpeg
     
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  22. Tim
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    Nice! That intersection of hood top/hood side/cowl top/cowl side is one of my favorites.
     
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  23. CSPIDY
    Joined: Nov 15, 2020
    Posts: 1,287

    CSPIDY
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    One of the toughest fits is the hood on a model A,
    You nailed it
     
  24. Jeff34
    Joined: Jun 2, 2015
    Posts: 1,474

    Jeff34
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    With the radiator lower, I had to trim down the fan blades a bit. Made a template and cut the same amount off each blade. Then I balanced the fan by placing the center rivet nose down on a steel block and looked for tilt (like a static wheel balancer). It’s not perfect but probably close enough. Balanced by shaving a bit off the heavy side until it was balanced.
    Second job was to add hood latches to the sides of the frame to hold the hood. Fronts bolted directly to the frame, rear latches needed an extension. I’ll contour them and paint them once I’m happy with them. IMG_6258.jpeg IMG_6259.jpeg IMG_6260.jpeg IMG_6261.jpeg IMG_6262.jpeg IMG_6264.jpeg IMG_6265.jpeg
     
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  25. Jeff34
    Joined: Jun 2, 2015
    Posts: 1,474

    Jeff34
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    Oh, and I had to beat on the p***enger side hood to clear the coil. I may do something more interesting later, but it’s good for now
     
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  26. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
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    looks good from here! Did you get rid of all the brackets you removed from the frame when you ditched the fenders? The stock latch bracket is pretty small, though probably visual about the same as what you’ve made.

    looks like the latches reach with out the hood shelves on as well! Nice :)
     
  27. Jeff34
    Joined: Jun 2, 2015
    Posts: 1,474

    Jeff34
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    I still have the hood shelves, but they are installed on top of the fenders, and don’t look right without them. I thought about modifying them to work, but this just seemed easier. The latches were originally mounted with wood blocks, but I didn’t want to use those either. I’m not completely sold on the latches yet and may go back to leather straps.
     
  28. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
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    Yeah I’ve got them on my A. I was surprised your latches reach with out the blocks which is why noticed/mentioned it. I think it looks great!
     
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  29. Jeff34
    Joined: Jun 2, 2015
    Posts: 1,474

    Jeff34
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    I may add a spacer under the latches. They are FULLY extended and still tight to latch
     
  30. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
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    Tim
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    Some stained wood blocks with nicely radiused edges/ corners would be great under them!
     
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