if you go with a crab you also need to switch out the crank and cam gears to an early set not an 8BA set.
also ya might want to ditch the mechanical fan and use an electric to save ya some space then ya don't need to change the engine pumps
Looks like if I mount my fan like @Aaron D. did in his coupe, I can fit the radiator in the stock location and run a hood top and/or sides. I got the radiator today and it leaves a small space between the fan and the radiator. Not much, but it should be enough. This means I'll need to run the generator on the drivers side head, so I'll look at making or buying a mounting bracket for that and fashion some form of fan mount bracket next... The fan touches the bottom of the top tank by a smidge now, so I'll need to drop it a bit, which shouldn't be a problem with a custom bracket. I'll just make what I need. I will only run one belt with this setup driving everything. Anybody see that as a problem? Thx...
Like J Ripper said, trim the blades. I have an 8BA in my 34 and it's close to the radiator and the top tank. My fan lost about a quarter inch off the blades and it works well.
I've never done this and probably never will, but can I assume that when you get everything rough trimmed you can use one of those lawnmower blade balancers to rebalance the fan; trimming or grinding a tad from the heavier blade(s)?
Pulled the engine and front end to make it easier to weld in the engine mounts. Comments on my welds, please. I practiced for a week with my new TIG machine before doing these. Weld pool looked good. Made one pass on the seam and put more heat into the mount which is thicker steel. Did two plug welds and filled an extra hole on top just because. Beat one of them with a hammer and it sounded solid and didn’t crack or budge.
Hi Jeff, I've got 3,000 miles on my single belt fan pully system with no problems at all. Your welds look fine to me! Aaron
Finished welding the fish plates on the step. Not great but the welds are solid. Really liking TIG over MIG even though I’m still learning.
Trying to get the chassis finished up. Needed to reverse eye the rear main spring. It’s taking me forever to do that. I’ve got it flat after 4 sessions in the fixture that I built. Takes it out on me. Probably take 5 more sessions to get it reversed. Aleve is my friend
Just found this. I'll be addressing the same fan issues on my coupe the near future. Keep plugging away.
let me know if you have any questions. I’ve scratched my head over this for weeks on end. Hoping I have it right.
Was having trouble getting the main leaf reversed (going slow so I don't break it), and at one point I heard a "tink". When I looked closer, I saw a crack in the leaf. Crap. Oh well, I gave it my best. New main leaf ordered. I also got the crack in the front cross member welded up yesterday (dang was it HOT in the garage) and the front end back under the frame. once the new rear main leaf gets here, I'll get the rear in so I can get this moving forward.
I need help...I need to fab a cross member for my transmission (R10 OD) and I'm trying to understand if I need rubber mounts for the transmission, or if I should just bolt it directly to the cross member (no mounts, just bolts). This is important now because I'll be building this cross member next week and need to know what to do. Thanks!
I would use rubber. Either a 1/4" thick sheet of sufficient density and oil resistance if you need something skinny for space reasons or pick up a factory mount.
Last week, I got my new rear main leaf from Millworks. Today, I planned to get the rear end re-assembled and back in the car. I forgot that the new spring had no bushings, so I had to use the ones from the old spring. I found a punch in my toolbox that I’ve had for over 20 years and didn’t know what it was for. Turned out it was the perfect size to drift the bushings out of the old spring and into the new spring. Who’d a thunk it. With that I put the leaves back in but found that the second leaf is now too long with the reverse eyed main, so I have to trim it. Temp in the garage got too hot so I gave up for the day.
Got the spring trimmed, chamfered, and tapered on the bottom edge. Re-installed the rear end today. At least now I can roll it around in the garage.
TIG is mainly used on lightweight metal, the best weld for plates or mounts like you have is either MIG or good old stick (my preference)
I don’t believe this. I think TIG welding is perfect for the 10 gauge steel on a Ford frame. And, it is a softer weld that will probably make for less cracking as the chassis flexes during use. Must be a good reason all professional hot rod and race car chassis builders use a TIG.
That's utter nonsense and not based in any sort of fact. Stick is going to leave the ugliest/messiest weld of all three. It'd be my last choice. No professional hot rod/race shop is going to be using stick.
Question: Does anyone know what slip yoke I need for my BW R10 trans? It came without a yoke. I called a couple of places, but they don't have it. It's 16 spline. 1.5" O.D. (based on the ID of the seal) The splined section of the output shaft is 5" long. I looked around, and it appears that it's the same one used on corvette's T10 trans, but not sure. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Hey Jeff, give Driveline Service in Santa Rosa a call...I'll bet Greg can fix you up. They're THE place for any driveshaft needs.
I'm sure I've got a couple of those slip yolks around here at the shop. Shoot me a PM to remind me and I'll look for it
Thanks, @Craig Owens I plan to take the car to Greg to build the driveshaft. Didn’t think about asking him if he had the yoke. Got something coming to me soon. Update when I know more.
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