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Projects The Geelong 1934 BB Ford

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by chev34ute, Aug 17, 2024.

  1. Outback
    Joined: Mar 4, 2005
    Posts: 3,156

    Outback
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from NE Vic

    Thanks, some of my wife's family were working for Ford in Geelong, it has been a while since talking about it - obviously - I think 1 still does??
     
  2. 29Sleeper
    Joined: Oct 25, 2023
    Posts: 398

    29Sleeper
    Member
    from SoCal

    I had thought that the Ford plant was at Point Henry that has been leveled - turns out that was Alcoa. Ford did keep a little corner where they have a R&D unit. My uncle was a VP at Ford and ran the Cleveland casting plant. It's all been leveled now.
     
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  3. Fortunateson
    Joined: Apr 30, 2012
    Posts: 5,683

    Fortunateson
    Member

    I wish we had better enforcement! If you don’t understand the meaning of “limit” or “maximum” then your licence should be suspended and you’d be compelled to a week in a library reading a dictionary!
     
  4. 29Sleeper
    Joined: Oct 25, 2023
    Posts: 398

    29Sleeper
    Member
    from SoCal

    California has 2 speed laws. Basic and Maximum. The Maximum one says unless otherwise posted it's illegal to drive faster than 65 mph. The Basic one says it's illegal to operate a vehicle at an unsafe speed. The speed limit signs are for average conditions. Most of the time the cops won't bother you at up to 14 mph over the posted speed. You always seem to be safe at 10 over. However it works 2 ways they could cite you for 25 in a 35 if the cop thinks it's unsafe due to heavy traffic, rain, pedestrians, etc.
    Nevada had no max speed law until the Carter gas crisis when he put a 55 mph max limit in. Nevada didn't want to comply but in the end they had to. If you got a ticket for 55-80 mph they called it an environmental violation and charged you $5 with no points on your drivers license.
     
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  5. chev34ute
    Joined: Nov 13, 2011
    Posts: 1,452

    chev34ute
    Member

    Hey Guys.

    After repairing the bottom of the cab, I was going to move onto doing the rest of the sub rails where it curves around the base of the cab.

    This is what I had in mind.
    9B202D5F-9511-436E-A3EB-A077B6A09D83.jpeg
     
  6. chev34ute
    Joined: Nov 13, 2011
    Posts: 1,452

    chev34ute
    Member

    But before I could do that there was a major problem I needed to address, so I dragged the two cabs out to make a comparison.

    6975663B-1BA7-47E5-872E-D49F9FFE17A7.jpeg
     
  7. chev34ute
    Joined: Nov 13, 2011
    Posts: 1,452

    chev34ute
    Member

    Like their GM counterparts, Ford Australia still used mostly timber framing in their bodies in 1934. And that included in the b pillars, but the main difference between the local Fords and GM’s was The Fords did not have steel cover strips. I want to replace all the timber with rectangular hollow section, but I wanted to cover it over so I had an idea.
    CA09196D-49AD-4A34-9B84-7969A13A268D.jpeg
     
    Last edited: Aug 31, 2024
  8. chev34ute
    Joined: Nov 13, 2011
    Posts: 1,452

    chev34ute
    Member

    I have a corner shed with 34 Chev and Oldsmobile parts, these were collected when I still had the Chev Ute. I always had the intention of selling it all on, but over the years I found myself using some of the panels for other project. Then I remembered the remains of the Oldsmobile body still had an intact B Pillar. Being a four door sedan, I knew I could split it to make a pair of covers strips.

    Once split I placed it beside the Ford B pillar to see how different they were.
    7A03ECDD-DC21-40DB-8FBC-ECAE65EA530C.jpeg
     
  9. chev34ute
    Joined: Nov 13, 2011
    Posts: 1,452

    chev34ute
    Member

    Aside from the locations of the latch housing and striker plates and tighter radius along the bottom and bulging outer edge below the swage, the two were remarkably similar. So I set about changing the Oldsmobile cover strips to match the profile of the Ford B Pillars.
    6A95F95D-F7FC-4AF4-9E6F-3A4B19CE290F.jpeg
     
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  10. chev34ute
    Joined: Nov 13, 2011
    Posts: 1,452

    chev34ute
    Member

    The first task was to remove the bulge along the bottoms of the cover strips by grinding out a line of the metal and hammering them back in line with the upper edges. The second task was to fill the latch housings. I used a combination of clamps and vice to hold them in place while re-welded them.
    6CC82F87-96AC-4335-895B-C8F768D467CF.jpeg B88EE1BD-F562-4C7F-AD04-600E856DB2BB.jpeg
     
  11. chev34ute
    Joined: Nov 13, 2011
    Posts: 1,452

    chev34ute
    Member

  12. chev34ute
    Joined: Nov 13, 2011
    Posts: 1,452

    chev34ute
    Member

    The other issue was what to do with the recessed striker plates, so I came up with an idea.
    4F820582-E5F7-4A2C-A472-E14E2BA47A2E.jpeg
     
  13. chev34ute
    Joined: Nov 13, 2011
    Posts: 1,452

    chev34ute
    Member

  14. chev34ute
    Joined: Nov 13, 2011
    Posts: 1,452

    chev34ute
    Member

    By cutting along the stamping lines I was able to flatten the recess back out. I then filled the remaining hole with a fresh piece of metal. With that done, I moved onto cutting out the new housings, by using the Ford B pillars as a guide.
    B17BC280-3896-45D7-87D0-DEF2E478D2F8.jpeg
     
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  15. chev34ute
    Joined: Nov 13, 2011
    Posts: 1,452

    chev34ute
    Member

    The remaining task was to reshape the lower radius, so it was less severe than Ford ones. To do this I notched it on two places, placed it over the timber b pillar, clamped it an welded it. It was dark by the time I had done that so I moved it inside where I could photograph it easier. The steel one is on the right. The length of 2x2 RHS on the far left was what I was going to use as the actual pillar but 3mm, the wall thickness is too hard to work with, so I most likely purchases some 2mm wall thickness lengths.
    92195A38-F3D2-414F-BC1A-37E6D1C96F34.jpeg
     
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  16. chev34ute
    Joined: Nov 13, 2011
    Posts: 1,452

    chev34ute
    Member

    Hey Guys.
    After many hours, I was finally able to finish welding all the cuts on the cover strip. It’s now sitting inside the B Pillar.
    444A91AD-D98A-4310-A0B9-8A51BDA1D83B.jpeg D43A427C-415D-4D6E-A219-397A6BD77457.jpeg
     
  17. chev34ute
    Joined: Nov 13, 2011
    Posts: 1,452

    chev34ute
    Member

    I’m only getting at most a couple of days a week to work on it, so it’s very slow going and I still have to finish the other side. The other thing I need to do once that is done is move onto the b pillars themselves. As I outlined earlier, the original ones are made of timber, and while still very solid, especially with the cover strips fastened in place, I want to replace them with steel.
    7A664FEB-91CE-4917-9B3E-B8C25F558D94.jpeg
     
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  18. chev34ute
    Joined: Nov 13, 2011
    Posts: 1,452

    chev34ute
    Member

    I was going to use 3mm walled 2x2 Rectangular Hollow Section that’s pictured to the right until I realised it was much heavier than I wanted, and also harder to cut through, so I have settled on 2mm walled RHS instead. The dimensions are almost the same as the timber originals. The difference will be the need to notch the bottoms to match the profiles of the originals and cutting away the inside edge and reversing it to match the stepped profile of the originals. 009EDBDB-67BB-4C45-B6C9-FEE083704B9C.jpeg
     
  19. Okie Pete
    Joined: Oct 29, 2008
    Posts: 5,876

    Okie Pete
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    You’re moving right along repairing and strengthening the cab . Looks good
     
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  20. chev34ute
    Joined: Nov 13, 2011
    Posts: 1,452

    chev34ute
    Member

    Hey Guys.

    I am moving on to the next stage, I decided early on that every last strip of timber would be replaced with steel. And the first area to be addressed would be the B Pillars. I intended to use 2mm walled 2x2 RHS for this, but had a truss from an old shed lying around that while the same outside dimensions had a slightly thinner wall thickness at 1.6 mm.
    9CBC03FA-87A2-4007-9E0A-AA5888AE9930.jpeg
     
  21. chev34ute
    Joined: Nov 13, 2011
    Posts: 1,452

    chev34ute
    Member

    After cutting two identical lengths, I marked out and cut all the holes for the latch and striker plate locations, by using the original one as a pattern. A34F2E36-BAA9-45FF-9E02-EE324E5D2C4D.jpeg
     
  22. chev34ute
    Joined: Nov 13, 2011
    Posts: 1,452

    chev34ute
    Member

    Not only did I use the 2x2 from the span, I also used 20x20 that made up the arch. This was welded to the outside edge to resemble the cutaway section that allows the timber original to be fastened to the side of the cab.
    F0502033-4650-4D4D-98FA-6E965A7037EC.jpeg B3EA21D0-B502-4204-BA68-87083B9EB3D9.jpeg
     
  23. chev34ute
    Joined: Nov 13, 2011
    Posts: 1,452

    chev34ute
    Member

    Test fitting it to the left side of the cab, left me very pleased with the results. Once I have got the opposite side up to the same level of completion I will be moving back to capping off the sub rails and fastening them to the sub rails.
    719C4B28-ABC6-46ED-BD68-DEE0D593FFE1.jpeg F26B23A8-8417-44B0-946B-F7408B2C7D7B.jpeg
     
  24. Outback
    Joined: Mar 4, 2005
    Posts: 3,156

    Outback
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from NE Vic

    Good work :cool:
     
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  25. chev34ute
    Joined: Nov 13, 2011
    Posts: 1,452

    chev34ute
    Member

    Hey Guys.

    I got a bit more done yesterday. After finishing off the other b pillar, I moved onto the cross bracing. I didn’t have any RHS wide enough for the job, so I decided to repurpose this old bench frame.
    8ACA2490-85A9-45EB-BB49-458CDDB0FD3D.jpeg
     
  26. chev34ute
    Joined: Nov 13, 2011
    Posts: 1,452

    chev34ute
    Member

    A laid the cab up onto a sheet of corrugated iron sitting on top of a 44 gallon drum with the inside facing up. I then braced it up and clamped the new b pillars into the old ones, effectively creating a makeshift jig.
     
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  27. chev34ute
    Joined: Nov 13, 2011
    Posts: 1,452

    chev34ute
    Member

    From there I measured the width and set on 55 at the centre belt line with a gap of 48 between the b pillars at the base. With the latter dimensions, I then cut up the bench frame to the same dimensions, welded one side of the frame up and then proceeded to weld the frame to the b pillar.
    5E525265-956B-4D18-9510-5CE50BA53780.jpeg
     
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  28. chev34ute
    Joined: Nov 13, 2011
    Posts: 1,452

    chev34ute
    Member

    I kept some of the cross framing intact on the frame, this will be used for when I create the curved section that will follow the contour of the base of the cab. The idea being this section will have a lower, middle and upper section that join the two sides together.
    3790A7FC-9E25-4FB5-A5CB-0BBB01B5928A.jpeg
     
  29. Woogeroo
    Joined: Dec 29, 2005
    Posts: 1,274

    Woogeroo
    Member
    from USA

    This should be fun...

    -Woog
     
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  30. Happydaze
    Joined: Aug 21, 2009
    Posts: 2,273

    Happydaze
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I've often wondered why when looking at almost every build in Australia there's box section steel with blue paint on it. Does this stuff grow on trees or something? I'm guessing it's salvaged from something but am curious to know what.

    Chris
     
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