I have a problem with my 64 Fairlane in that when building the motor I gave power a free p***. I built my 289 with the best parts I could put my hands on. I scored a forged 289 crank NOS for $25 and started from there. The problem is that the top end is all aluminum and the intake is a air gap two plane. The MSD distributor has a black cap and wires so it should not stand out. I can paint everything black witch is the stock engine color with gold or chrome valve covers, I also have a set off Cobra valve covers. The intake can be changed for a Ford version of the Shelby intake but I truly hate to give up the power. The 289 was built to run mid 11s in drive for my daughter, and has 455hp and 445 ftlb torque. It's a great package. How far do you think I need to go for the look of 1964?
I think you're all set. I would imagine that all the non factory stuff will come up in conversation every time you have the hood open anyway.
Just be selective as to what events you open the hood at. If it a traditional car even like Billetproof leave the hood closed and call it good. If it is an open event where there are more new Mustangs and Camaros than anything else open the hood and stand back with a sly smile. If you have one of those "Mid 11" time slips lay it con****uously on the dash or neatly displayed in the build album and don't worry what the hell anyone says.
Valve covers and air cleaner were red for that year (Blue up here in Canada). I am curious about the forged 289 crankshaft. Who made that?
Stock engine colors, painted valve covers,and air cleaner, with the proper stickers, painted correct, bottom and rear of stock air cleaner cut out where it cant be seen for more airflow, mist black primer over shiny stuff to age it, even with the air gap will fool more people than you think, even if you don't go to the extreme on it.
Show pic`s of the car. Then we can decide if you have a chance of attending Vintage Torque Fest if that's what you are after. Or other events, for the look of 1964.
Ive got a 260 that I will sell. Swap that in and you will be period correct. Actually why do you care enough about what others think that you even to make it look original?
Exactly this With painted valve covers and a stock air filter, everything painted factory colours, you will fool most. And the ones that know will appreciate ( I think) the fact your trying to keep it period looking. I get what your doing and I get **** about stuff like this as well. Post some pics sounds like a great set up, your daughter is a lucky girl! You looking to adopt a 40 year old slightly hairy Italian?
RHS, 200 cc heads For the Fairlane the 289 2v the valve covers and air cleaner were orange (289 special) the K code had gold valve covers but chrome were available. As far as the crankshaft it is a Ford part, before you get all wound up and say that Ford didn't have forged 289 cranks that's what I thought also. Ford offered over the counter forged cranks at one time for the 289. I didn't know what I had until ten years later and went to use it. I'm not trying to make this appear stock just 1964 ish, the cam has 248@50 duration so it's not going to fool anyone into thinking its stock. I call the valve covers and air cleaner orange but poppy red matches the color.
64 engines where 5 bolt bell. Ive got a 64 289 that has factory chrome valve covers. The oil fill has a press on cap on a tube. not the turn tab cap.
I ran the original 289 for ten years after doing a refresh and used Cobra valve covers that take the same oil fill/vent as the stockers.
I guess you need to decide it you want a traditional car, or a fast car? They're not always the same thing.... don't worry too much about it.
I thought there might be tips on getting rid of all the aluminum and hiding the fact it's a contemporary build. It doesn't fit the rest of the car.
Paint the heads and call it done but I would just say the engine is an original rebuilt and leave it at that..
Oil the manifold/heads after you paint them black , and throw some dirt on them to stick so it looks "patina-ed", esp under the valve cover area
Just go to the kind of shows where your car is appreciated. It's *****en! And, drive the **** out of it. If you seek the approval of the folks at the "Traditional" show, build a rusty 4 door with airbags. You sure don't want to be called a Gold Chainer, right?
I've got a 347 with AFR heads. I painted the heads and block black and am using the gold valve covers. I like the look and get a lot of positive comments.
What did you use for paint? I've thought about using a black epoxy primer then paint. I've painted many engines with automotive paints but never aluminum heads.
Aluminum requires some good prep. Needs to be very clean then wax and grease remover. Scuff all surfaces some to provide some "tooth". Use etching primer then paint. Some claim to have good results with epoxy.
40 yrs ago Dupont & others, offered a primer for Al. Can't quite recall the name. Anyone? (Believe it etched the base metal)
I've got etch primers and I've also got the convertion coating for aluminum, when it gets closer to the time to do this I'll call a local jobber.
My son is way into Mustangs/Fairlanes/V8 Pintos...Surprised me with some 302 small block Ford torque. '65 Mustang had 302, B303 cam, 2X4 650s, MSD ignition, 5 speed. This was in 1990, car was very quick. Now his '55 F100 is getting a 351 with way more. These engines deserve a closer look. I'm still building my 406 F.E.; No regrets, but I do like to 'keep up'...there's a 302 I'm interested in.
Who made steel cranks for Ford that were sold over the counter ? Unless it's some rare Trans-am piece from back then. Boss 302 was the only one I'm familiar with.
That's a fair amount of hp out of a 289. How much compression and cam lift? Has it run 11's in drive yet?
It is expensive, you have to wear a respirator, but you will never rattle can a nicer or more durable high heat paint.
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