Hot Rods The Hitchhikers Guide:The Hot Rod Ford Model A or AV8 Coupe. Post war 40's build.

Hmmm. I was planning on using stock manifolds then upgrading to headers later. Maybe I better do that now.....

 

I used stock manifolds at first. I had to cut a notch into the drivers side one to clear the box. I made sure not to cut it any smaller then the hole exiting the block on the rear cylinder. It seemed to work fine in my opinion, just looked a little funny.....

 

Are you using headers now? If so what brand and did you have to mod them?

 

I'm also using a F1 column in my AV8. I ordered a set of flathead headers from Red's. Just called them up and told them what I was building and they whipped out a set. Got them in about a week and they fit great with plenty of room for the steering box. Well worth the $$

 

Nothing exciting recently..... moved engine mounts 1/2 inch forward for better wishbone clearance and put the body mounts under it. I mocked up the steering box for the first time today too. it sticks out way to far into the passenger compartment with the wheel on it. I'm going to shorten it. Also should i mount the steering box flange so it is flush with the end of the snout or have the snout pass through the frame a bit?

also I need a 30-31 dash rail., doesn't need to be super nice ...I have a NICE 28-29 to trade?

 

Mine's a '32 frame, but if you look at the pic it should give you an idea. You're goig to want the box almost touching the inside of the rail to give enough room for exhaust and cylinder head.

If you don't have any luck with that trade maybe we can work out something for the dash rail I have.

 

Thanks for the picture! thats Kinda what I figured. Now I need to get a hole saw big enough.

 

Very nice...

 

What headers are out there besides Red's and Fentons? Can I buy flanges somewhere?

 

You can get flanges from Speedy Bill, Hot Rod Company, and SoCal Sacto, probably others. HRC is an alliance vendor if you step up.

 

I got a lot done today. The body is almost 1 piece! I've got everything tacked where I like it and solid. I started to finish weld, I don't know what it was today, but I was burning through sheet metal like nobodies business. Luckily I ran out of wire. I think it is because this thing has horrible gaps that don't match each other. All the tight ones weld fine. but the big ones I burned through easy. Hopefully this thing won't look to hacked together when it is done.

 

Man Ya got alot of work done so far......Is it going to be running this spring????

Ol Deuce

 

Sounds like its coming together. Did you ever get the rough chop sorted out?

 

I hope to have it running by the end of the year, but you know how goals go...

Where it is curled on the back or the act of no bracing? I basically measured the door gaps so it matched side to side as best I can. As far as the back where it is curled I've tried straightening it a little, it hasn't worked great. I think I should have done it with the roof off the car. It's to late to do that now. My basic plan at this point is to get everything else welded up, then I'll cut out the curled metal and replace it with the cut out pieces from another chop I have. I think that will end up the cleanest.

Also I think I'm out of welding gas too, I think that is why I had troubles burning through tonight.

 

I think your right about getting everything else welded up, or maybe just tacked in case you need to make adjustments.

I'm facing a number of the same issues, except I think the cuts on mine are maybe a little easier to deal with. My driver's side quarter in missing a huge chunk of the top. I'm planning to hang every complete piece of tin available so I can have a few reference points.

I'm also using oxy/acet on the thinner sheet. Seems to work a little better for the thin stuff.

Thanks for posting your progress, its a great help to have references from other builds.

 

I'll I have to say today.....Is gaps are super important! The gaps are so bad in some places I'm not sure what to do. I'm about ready to buy another body and throw this one in the trash.....or take another inch or two out. not sure what to do at this point.

On a good note I had a fun day at Hamber Uncle Bob's garage. Got a good stock dash to make my 35-36 a bolt in and I have noticed considerable improvement in my welding skills.

 

Why not make the gaps a little wider in the bad spots and weld in a filler strip? I have cut out material and then welded in a 1/4" to 1" strip when there is too wide of gap to start with or too thin of material.

Don't get discouraged. Some times you need to just back away from it and come back on a fresh day.

Neal

 

thanks.....I'm putting away the cutting torch.....

 

And Matt is good help as well as willing to listen to ol' war stories

Thanks again bud.

 

Hey... if it was easy, anybody could do it??? Hang in there and take your time... Sometimes you can use a backup block like a chunk of alum. or copper to help keep from blowing thru...

 

thanks guys, It doesn't look as bad to me now as it did last night....

 

Oh man, I know how you feel. Sometimes you gotta step back, crack open a beer and relax for a bit.

 

teaser.....I'm further along than this.....but it is too ugly to show.

 

C'mon! And, what the heck man, you didn't even focus it on the cuts/spot weld. It's focused on the distant pillar. F- on this update!

 

Haha, went back and looked....wrong picture. I need to proof read Hopefully this is better....



and my ugly welds after the first grinding.... go easy on me, I've never done sheet metal work.

 

Also, this



looks like this now.

 

Wow! What'd they cut that with? A P38?

Nice clean up you did. A little more finesseing and you'll have a clean match up.

 

Looks like its coming along for sure. I think you're going to win the battle

You might consider cutting that lower lip off the top edge and either having a bit more of a chop, or replacing it with a new piece. Because the thickness is not consistent and because its still a little raged, the metal that you've straightened will tend to wander in different directions once heat is applied. Same thing happens when you use too much filler rod, inconsistent cooling results in little buckles in the metal as it shrinks.

 

I think it was a chain saw.

that's what these are for.

 

Does anyone know the thickness of a Model A frame.....I need to get some metal for the frame step and filling the stock steering mount.