This is engine number 6. I’ve been buying flatheads like they’re going out of style, which they are. Everyone had issues but only one was completely junk. This is my latest. 59a block with 3-5/16 bore Merc crank 4” stroke Weber cam? Never heard of it. I figure the crank was worth the price. This is the last flathead I’m buying. If I can’t get a usable flathead, I’m detuning my blown nitro 392 Hemi and using that.
Me too. I want to run a flathead in my 32 3w but this #6 block is cracked. Do I keep looking for the holy grail or repair the cracks?
Way easier to find a good 49 and later block than 48 and earlier. Ive had real good luck buying them and ending up with a good block 1st shot. Personally I wouldn’t start with either of the blocks posted. Too pitted and that second one looks like the valve grinder got away from someone. Not being critical just honest. I’m in rusty New England and we still manage to find good blocks without too too much fuss. Good luck they’re cool once your done
That deck surface looks rough. The cracks you could repair but how do you clean up the rest of the surface? I am not trying to tell you to stop looking just would like to know how to get it cleaned up.
New, but not inexpensive: https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/new-french-flathead-block.1318629/
I can only speak to my own experiences with flathead motors. They are cool, nothing looks or sounds like them. But finding a good one is not too easy as you are finding out. They are worth the hassle. You have tons of flathead stuff now, all you need is a block. I have a good 1941 59AB motor complete but tired if you are interested. Good luck
1941 59AB? The first digit is the units digit of the year a part was introduced and the second digit is the units digit of the displacement. Neither fits a 1941 Ford.
Just a bit of trivia. Breaking down the 59A designation is 5 is for 1945 when it was first introduced. The 9 stands for 100hp the 99A designation comes from Mercury in 1939 with a 100hp 239 instead of the 85/90 hp 221. Ford used the 1 to designate the 24 stud 221 introduced in 1938, ie 81A 38, 91A 39, 01A 40, 11A 41, and 21A for 1942. For whatever it is with to anyone.
1945-48 59 series Ford was early out of the gate officially getting back in production in July of 1945, but it was more of a stunt than real volume production. Along with the rest of the USA auto manufacturers Ford slowly worked through the supply and manufacturing problems of converting back from war production and increased civilian vehicle volumes to meet the post war demand for automobiles. The new Fords and Mercuries looked an awful lot like the 1942 models, but at least they were new cars. The engines were updated a bit too, with the change exciting for Ford and disappointing for Mercury. Both the Fords and Mercuries now used the same 239 cubic inch 100 horsepower engines. This gave the Ford V8s a solid horsepower lead over the Ford 6s, but also resulted in the Mercury having no performance advantage and basically being a longer wheelbase Ford with an upgraded interior and different trim. Before WW2 the Mercuries had enjoyed a power advantage over the Fords, but that was gone until 1949. The 59 engine changes from the pre-war units include a return to the flat intake deck, round water holes in both the center and lower center of the cylinder deck, a sloped front of the engine between the intake surface and the timing cover area so the blocks will no longer pass the “pencil test”, and unless someone has ground it off a large 59 cast on top of the bell housing. The valve angle was also changed for post-war blocks, with the valves moved approximately 0.090” further from the bore to allow more cooling water around the valve seats. The 59 series engines got that identification since they started in 1945 and displaced 239 cubic inches. Features of the 59 engines • 24 studs retaining the cylinder heads • Water pumps in the block • The water drains are angled • Fails the pencil test • No core plugs in the oil pan rails • Smoother block sides without raised looking exhaust ports • Crankcase ventilation • Insert main bearings 2.499” diameter retained by studs • Round center water hole in the deck • Round water hole in the lower center of the deck • 59 cast on the bell housing Above from page #49 of the Techno-Source for the 1932 thru 1953 Flathead Ford
Having been involved with the “famous” Ford flathead for 60 years and buying,selling,owning over 50 engines, what you are describing is nothing NEW.Recently, I sold ALL of my flathead pieces,because at age 76 am probably going to relocate to Lewes,Delaware from my native central Texas because of excessive heat too much of the time and much better taxes in Delaware(better weather also). Blocks from a wrecking yard are much harder to find;had better luck buying blocks from individuals. The only flathead piece I kept was the long stoutly made valve guide remover and installer in case the need arises for my engine building services in De. Or Texas. Went from 60 years of flatheads to 4 cam Lincoln(pre COBRA) in less than 7 days.,so still no pushrods or rocker arms involving over 60 years of hot rodding Ford motor co products!! Flatheads Forever!!—-kinda almost true for me.
Thanks for all the flathead information. I’m rethinking about using block #4. It is a remanufactured block. Very nice everywhere except a crack in cylinder #1. I can get it sleeved for $300. Thanks for the offers on the new blocks. I prefer a seasoned block over new. The nice part about buying all these flatheads is the stroker cranks and regrind cams. I have some 3-3/4 cranks, one 4” crank , and one 4-1/8” crank. I’m building two engines, one 296 and one 276.
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