No matter how cool the chop looks, if that were my arm sticking out of that back window I'm afraid my claustrophobia would have me either unconscious or dead of a heart attack.
Just read the entire thread. Love it!!! I had a lotta fun building my 5 window too. BTW, are you gonna run a rear panhard bar? I think I'll build one for my coupe this winter
I like the coupe but here I could never p*** inspection now needs a 7 inch windshield! Still working on mine after 10 years.
They never said the windshield has to be 7” perpendicular from the ground! Lean it back, chop it hard, and leave the windshield frame Off when it gets measured lol
@redzula yeah we’ve got the ch***is just about finished up. A friend from KC offered to sandblast and primer so tryin to get that lined up for the upcoming weekend
Well its been more than a couple weeks, and I finally decided I was sick of it sitting around, so I got to work. We got the frame dis***embled and blown apart so I could flip it around and weld it up. I think I welded like 100+ holes in the framerails. We made a bunch of patches, and fixed a bunch of dents and pitted spots. I made a trans mount before we took it apart, and I figured it really needed more bracing, so I made some tubes to connect it to the rear radius rod crossmember. but then I was trying to figure out how to fix the hacked center of the X member (cut to fit the T5) and decided it would be easier, and stronger, to make it fully tubular. with that sorted, I stuck it back together to sort out the panhard bars. It was a trick to get the rear panhard wedged between the rear spring, and the rearend cover. Once I took it back apart I made the rearend side double shear. While it was apart I also finished and welded the other side brace of the x member. I also snuck a front panhard bar into the mix, and boy, this one was a trick. It had to fit in an impossibly small space, but once I made the bracket curved to go on the other side of the bar, It worked perfectly. (you can also see here the C-notches I added in the front) And YES. the bar should be flat. It is, once weight is on it. I used a wide ratchet strap to compress the front end, and get it close to ride height, so I could check clearance with the steering drag link, and the axle. It fits, just barely. So then, I just had to brace it. and make it look pretty And of course I took a shot of the whole ch***is together for the last time. The frame is now over at Austin's place, and the next time you see it, it will probably have paint on it. till next time!
Lot of creative problem solving goes into one of these. Looks great guys. Joey I’m curious how much room you’ve got on bolt head to the back side of the axle on the pan hard mount. Looks like it would tap the axle once weight is on the spring but I know it doesn’t. Was thinking a ****on head Allen might get You an extra bit of room if you needed it. Cant wait to see it painted and it go back together again
Yupp. It's got plenty of room. The axle is also super constrained in its movement, so it can only move in a narrow arc. And the axle will actually be almost even with the bolt at ride height.
I see what Tim sees in that one picture it does look like they want to occupy the same space. If you checked it and your happy with it then carry on and get this thing cruising already. Lol.
Ch***is shots are the worst for making things look like they are somewhere they aren’t if the photo isn’t specifically taken to show that. Looking at the shape of the pan hard bracket it reminded me of a shoe horn, kinda suiting given the job it’s doing!
The Jalopy Journal
