Projects The LeGrange Produce Tribute Truck build

Pretty much the experience as I have had. I do plan to have a crossmember under the pan tying the two legs together for strength. May be overkill. Nice job.

 

Thanks for the detailed write up on the 200 install. I will be changing my 350 turbo out for a 2004R this winter and your posts will help with that process. Your seats and door panel look great!

 

Shouldn't be a big deal Dave. The ****** crossmember sits about 6" aft of the original one, but other than that it should just drop in.

 

Thanks for the input Chris. All I know about overdrives is that the Merc has a 700R4 behind a SBC, but I don't know the strengths/weaknesses of the 700 vs the 200 and why I would want one over the other. So, I guess the 200 is a good choice for behind the 235 6 cylinder? From where I stand, if it gets me to comfortable rpms at highway speed and pretty close fits in the T350 spot, it must be a half decent choice.

 

Dave I'd consult the interwebs and see which trans has the lower first gear. That will help the most with the 235. But at the same time, I'd go with the most bolt in option regardless of gear ratio.

 

The 200 takes up less space in the tunnel. The 700 is fine, but the main reason I went with the 200R4 is the fact that it is almost the exact same footprint as the 350. The 700 would have required removing most of the X member and starting over. The 200 has a lower first gear, as Dan has stated.

 

Here's a good article Dave I stumbled across just now.. http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/46140-chevrolet-transmission-swap-guide/

 

Dave, I forgot to tell you that mine has a lockup converter. It is engaged by line pressure instead of an electric switch. I wanted it for towing my race car etc. Very little slippage at speed and that helps raise the gas mileage as well.

 

You mean numerically lower, right?

I thought the 700 was in the 3.0 range, and the 200 in the low to mid 2's?

 

What I read is that the 700 has the lower first gear, but the 200 has a better 1-2 ratio. In other words there is a bigger drop in rpm's in the 1-2 shift on a 700 than a 200.

 

That's how I know it as well, I have the 700 in my IROC, there is a big split between the 1-2 shift, never drove a 200 equipped car though.

Edit:

I should say "my daughters" IROC now, she does let me drive once in a while though...

 

Ok, maybe so. I know it is preferred in some of the lighter cars. This is probably why.

 

Dang....how did I miss this? Great build with some pretty neat tricks thrown in. Keep at it!!

 

Thanks for the input guys...big help! Sorry to hijack your thread Chris....back to our regularly scheduled program.

 

Chris, did you not encounter any clearance issues with the BOP tabs at the top of the trans? Someone has posted before that they had to trim those off for clearance in a 40 I think.

 

I didn't , but the pickup firewall may be more forgiving than the p*** cars.

 

Just went through the thread, this is coming along very nicely.
Love the colors, very clean

 

Cool build, and even cooler story on how the build came about. Lonestar Roundup 2016?

 

Thanks guys. I took about 5 months off to get some other stuff done. Today I worked on it for a few hours after church. I am hoping to have it up and running by March....maybe . I am Down to wiring and fitting front fenders etc.

 

Go Chris, go Chris!!

 

So, I have been pounding on a set of good old American steel fenders but they still need a lot of love. I'm not a big fan of gl***, but Speedway Motors had a set of 35-37 fenders for $249 each. I decided to give them a try. All in all they ended up fitting pretty good. They weigh about 15# each. I know this, because I inquired to see if they were a race weight or heavier. These are a medium weight. The quality was very good. They have a nice gelcoat finish. The only problem I had was the headlight stand area. They are dimpled for the bolt on the stand and I wasn't able to line up the holes on either side.

After mocking all this up, I decided to build a set of sideboards. I went to the local speciality lumber yard and picked up some red oak. This pic shows the boards mocked up. I will post more pics after I get them stained and finished up.

 

Very nice.

 

After some Dark Walnut stain and one coat of Teak oil. Look like 1935? I didn't want it to look like furniture, so I left it sort of rustic.

 

Looks great Chris.

 

Thanks. I am having fits making the front sheet metal fit right. I spent about 8 hours yesterday working on it. I think a lot of my problems stem from the Walker radiator I bought. It's a nice piece, but I am wondering how accurate it is compared to Henry's stuff. The other issue is adding gl*** fenders at the same time. It's going together, i just want a better fit/finish than this. I may have to actually move the cab forward a 1/4" or so to gain some adjustment.

 

Looks like you are making progress on the alignment.

 

Chris...Much work has gone into this beauty. To move the cab forward: a serious consideration, in my experience. Mainly with '35-'36 pickups.
I recall you mentioning a non-issue with the firewall/transmission housing: "I believe the pickups have more generous firewall room than p***enger cars."
My nephew bought a '35 pickup. He also bought a nice 283 w/Powerglide.
Brought it to me, sans front sheet metal...to 'slip 283/PG right in there.'
I recall distributor/firewall interference, (even with the nice factory recess)
The radiator had to be 'jostled' forward an inch, (thick Walker!) and it was like a #12 foot in a #10 shoe!
Please enlighten me regarding firewall closeness/radiator fot w/short water pump?...etc.
I'm in LOVE with this type pickup, please tell me the parameters you are making work for you...(Nephew Otto's identical truck was Engine compartment short!)
...and you are able to move the cab/firewall forward, to RX 'Gaposis'!
Please go into detail, Chris. The engine 'planting' seemed so simple you omitted it.
We're dealing with fractions of inches clearance, so I wish I was closer.
No cynicism, just ("What??? Where'd you get an extra 1/2 inch???" )

 

Your truck is looking great! Good luck on bringing the hood clearance to where you want it. Can the inner fenders move back a little to square it up?

 

I will take some pics over the next few days. The motor and ****** location is pretty standard in all 35-40 frames. It's basically a bolt in motor mount using measurements from existing holes and rivets etc. I don't use the large cap HEI type units because of clearance issues. I am using a Pertronix electronic distributor. Never used one before, but it is pretty small. I use a short water pump on my trucks. Another issue, is that I am adding a cooling components electric puller type fan, since this will be a daily and a tow vehicle. This cuts down the room that the radiator and grille can move aft.

As far as moving anything other than the cab, it really won't help me much. From the factory, the cabs rub the bed front. I can possibly oversize the mount holes and gain a 1/4" or so. I think that the angle of the wood that the cab sits on determines your hood fit. I have a set that a fellow hamber built me 20 years ago. I have heard from guys that used this pattern that it may be a little thick in the front. I may have to trim it down to get the correct angle. Either that or shell out $200 for a new set of wood (which is doubtful). I shimmed the rear of the cab up about .400" using rubber strips. I think I need to remove the rubber, trim the wood and start from ground zero.

 

I like what you're doing on this