I went to a local antique store to find some small chairs for my daughter's play room. And instead found a set of what I think are NOS 1932 Missouri license plates tucked away in a booth. Stupid cheap. They are not in perfect shape, but I don't believe they were ever on a car because they were wrapped in a sort of strange, very thin white paper and the paint in the middle (where it isn't rusted) is flawless. At some point they attracted moisture and rusted around the very outside edge. Really crusty rust. Not something I want to try to sand or mess with too much mechanically because it's so close to the good paint on the Missouri lettering. I'm hoping I've remembered this correctly and can give them a bath, rinse, and touch up the black background with some one-shot. Anyone have a picture of something coming out of the soup?
I'll try to get some pictures. Not for sale though. You know those stories where someone finds a part and builds an entire car around it?
My dad found a whole box of those NOS '32 Missouri plates in the mailing envelopes years ago, apparently they way overproduced for the year. They were all stuck together too. Don't try just prying them apart- the back plate will lose a lot of paint. My dad tried that, so I know. Molasses sounds like a safe thing to try, and I don't see why it would eat any of the paint.
my understanding is it will clean it to bare metal. not that I'm sure but let's keep it up top until someone can let you know for sure.
Dont know about molasses on lic plates, but go here first. http://www.alpca.org/faq.cleaning.html My 29's had most of the original paint but had probably more rust stain and crust than what you described for yours. I sent them to an alpca member to have them cleaned while preserving the original paint. Both of mine needed to be straightened too. I was more than pleased. There is a guy on Fordbarn who will either e-mail or hard copy a restoration pamphlet for various cleaning and restoration methods for hobbyists and restorers. 10 or 11 bucks. I am going to send for mine soon as soon as I dig up his address again.
can some one tell me more about this molassis cleaning, i need a metal tank fr my bike derusted.. might b worth a shot??
Pyro...try to run a search here on the board, it has been discussed some time ago, you may find the link to a website where a guy did a coupe that way. Also, just do google.
Kevin, I've used the molassas trick on several things with paint. It will take off the rust, but probably ruin the paint. Some things come out OK others it loosens the paint and changes the color. Mybe some Gibbs around the edges?
if its really crusty the mole-asses will eat holes in it....its really just removing rust i guess but i put a rear deck for a roadster in that i thought wasnt too bad and it came out swiss cheese. you might be better off just getting it clean with a wire brush and put a little filler on then paint it? good luck zach
The molasses only eats the iron oxide and leaves good metal untouched. Filler over wire brushed rust will just come off as soon as moisture gets under it. One thing that works well is to put Zero Rust red oxide over the wire brushed panel and then skim mud over it. ZR is chemically compatible with the fillers. www.zerorust.com for info
It is a very old farmers method, at least into the 1800's. The molasses must be the sulfated variety, commonly used for horse feed and sold in feed and grain stores for example. There are also small bottles available in some grocery stores but most sold there is unsulfated. The mix ratio is 4-5 parts water to 1 part molasses. Mix completely in warm water. The part must be steel or iron, no aluminum, copper, potmetal, etc as it will eat it. The process takes 1-2 weeks depending on temperature. The fumes are not toxic but they can get ripe so put it somplace besides the kitchen. Cover it and remove the top scum every few days and stir the remainder. It WILL NOT remove grease, oil and dirt. It will get under loose paint and lift it. Ive had flathead blocks come out clean also, dont know what paint was used, others still had the paint on them. Ive been using for ages to clean blocks and just about anything else where Im not against the clock.
I used the Molasses on the Windshield Crank Mechanism for my 35. Took the rusty areas to clean new looking steel......well, everywhere that there was NO grease or oily metal. I Didnt clean them very well the 1st time and they came out looking like Holstein Cow, with clean spots and rusty spots after three weeks of soaking. Took the parts apart (they came apart easily after the 1st soaking). Cleaned them with scrubby pad and dish soap. Then tossed it the dish washer *still rusty areas aroung the pivot joints and the gear mechanism. Two more weeks of soaking and they came out beautifully. The Acid in the Molasses didnt seem to attack the clean metal either, just the rusted areas. I was happy with the results. ---- -- -- -- - --- -- -- -- --- - - -- --- - -- -- -- -- -- - -- --- --- The following "below the dotted line" is only my guess and not based on experience: It would not attack the painted areas unless you left it in there for like a really long time (6 months), then I think it would slowly delaminate the paint....... but that is only a guess as my experience didnt even penetrate oily areas.
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