Yeah, I noticed that they don't really fit together but I think it'll be ok. I have a bellhousing for a 200 and I think I can modify it to make it work but I'm pretty sure it's cast aluminum, can't remember. That's why I was wondering what guys were running. I did a google search and found a couple of guys in Oz running 170 ford motors. Anybody know them?
If you run a stock bellhousing you will need a scattershield. Make sure it is of good quality because you have to have feet to walk on and push the gas and clutch pedal.Roy
And where might I find a scattershield for a Ford six cylinder that has been completely ignored by the aftermarket until the last ten years?
1/4" plate over the clutch/flywheel area seems to satisfy most legislature's.....so that's what we did.... Cheers, Drewfus
I was just repeating a joke implying he "blew a tranny". I don't really think it's true. Humor doesn't read well over the internet.
Thank you, that's excellent! It will solve almost all of my bellhousing/transmission issues all at once.
Well I thought I would say a little bit about what I've been trying to accomplish with my transmission. I took it apart and took it to a transmission shop which does standard transmissions and who knows how to modifiy them for racing, I hope. I want this transmission business to be fixed. As I said before my trans was worn out when I took it apart. One thing that Mr. Lane recommended was to cut every other tooth off the slider. That was a job that took two weeks to do. You can't just get in there with a grinder and start making metal fly. I finally found a shop that has a machine that cuts metal with electricity not an arc. This machine has a 1 thousandths tolerance and is amazing to watch. The only thing is you must make a mirror image of what you want cut out of graphite. I now have the trans back together and we will see if it cures my shifting woes.Roy
I was talking to a guy the other day about my Lasalle, and he reccommended the same thing. I don't guess I quite understand, but supposedly it aids in shifting without a clutch? I'd like to hear more about these mods. The Lasalle is reputed to be a slow-shifting trans, anything to speed it up would be cool.
What are you fellas calling the "slider". The first/reverse gear on the mainshaft, or the synchro collar for 2nd/3rd. Or is it something else altogether? Hud
I believe the true name is the sleave on the synchronizer. This is the sleave that slides back and forth between second and high gear. It is the one the shifter fork controls. Roy
I'd like some confirmation on this because I've got lines on different 3-speed toploaders and you probably know how excited you get when you're panning for gold and find a nugget. This one's a RAN AZ (http://www.davidkeetoploaders.com/3speedidchart.htm), so it's from a 170-powered '70 Mavrig. From "A trans from a six cyl anything is right out of the question" I gather that I shouldn't bother with it. Is it smaller, more like a 2.77 Falcon trans than a V8 toploader? BTW, has anyone got a link to a torque rating ID chart for toploaders? And please clarify "I bought a couple ... of the weaker versions before I got an expert identification". Are the weaker versions you're referring to the 6-cyl or the small block V8 trans? So, is the "small 6" toploader no good for an HA/GR, the "big 6 / small block V8" toploader a maybe, and the "big block V8" (352(?)/390) gold? Thanks, Kurt
What about an Econoline (short) transmission? The one I have is from a 170-powered Econoline. Is it a reconfigured 2.77 trans? How rugged is it? What about a 240-powered Econoline trans? Thanks, Kurt
I wouldn't go anything less than the V8 '60's toploader. Someone should buy mine for Christ's sake. I might consider a payment plan.
Don't know about the Chevy trans, but we're keeping with the concept and running a '34 Dodge three speed toploader behind our flathead 6, long lever and all.
It's a small aluminum "metric" box of unknown parentage, very light. The rest of the setup is self fabricated.
Don't know which Chevy you're referring to, but, do like I did- swap meet a used Lakewood for $175. For a 194 it'll bolt up, for a 235 (or any other engine for that matter) it's a simple redrill of the block plate. The bell I bought was drilled for Chevy pattern and Ford toploader both. Bolt the toploader and fill with clutch. RACE!! added benefits-- lack of fab time for a built scattershield, weight savings of the stock bell, and, not to be taken lightly, that the tech guy at your track won't look at you sideways for running the Lakewood.
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