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Projects The Wade Model A Coupe: Build Thread & Photo Journal

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Bass, Feb 20, 2009.

  1. Bullington
    Joined: Feb 27, 2007
    Posts: 329

    Bullington
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    1. Northwest HAMBers

    Bass tech question.

    Do you still need a panhard bar with the way the rear spring is mounted?

    Just curious because I was talking about this same type of set up in a guys shop on Thursday night

    [​IMG]
     
  2. ricardo_rocha
    Joined: Nov 29, 2008
    Posts: 765

    ricardo_rocha
    Member
    from Brazil

  3. crazed_lunatik
    Joined: Sep 13, 2008
    Posts: 14

    crazed_lunatik
    Member
    from Arizona

    man that is pretty. i just got done with a good day of work on my project, and think i need to go back and redo it after seeing yours. i guess thats why you get paid and i am just screwing around. great work!!
     
  4. crazed_lunatik
    Joined: Sep 13, 2008
    Posts: 14

    crazed_lunatik
    Member
    from Arizona

    bullington

    and just when i was going to quit for the evening...

    you never want to use the leaf springs in the place of a stiff member like a panhard bar or radius rods. the reason for this is the spring is going to deflect. that is its job. when it does this it will change dimentions, and the angles and calculations you spent time on will be out the window, and so might your handling of the car. i know people do it, but its a bad idea.
     
  5. LongnLow
    Joined: Apr 16, 2006
    Posts: 148

    LongnLow
    Member

    i have to go clean myself now.
     
  6. Bass
    Joined: Jul 9, 2001
    Posts: 3,364

    Bass
    Member
    from Dallas, TX

    This has been hashed and re-hashed on here a lot of times, and there are a lot of opinions about panhard bars on hot rods. The general consensus is that yes, with a transverse leaf and ladder bars you should run some sort of link to stop lateral movement. Be it a panhard bar, Watts link, etc.

    There are also lots of cars with a transverse leaf and no panhard, and I'm sure most of them do just fine. The idea behind adding the panhard is to keep the shackles from swaying side to side during movement.

    My advice would be that if you are planning on building a car without a panhard bar, you should set the spring up to where it is in "tension" at ride height, meaning your shackles will be at about a 20-30 degree angle or so at ride height. Having the spring in tension is exactly as Ford did it until they started adding a rear panhard.

    if you do decide that you want to run a panhard bar then you can have a little more angle to the shackles, which will normally impart a little softer ride. This is apparently the reason that Ford added panhard bars and changed shackle angle in the 40's.

    That's the short answer to your question. Again, there are lots of posts on panhard bars and rear suspension theory, so I would suggest doing a search for 'panhard bar' to read more on the subject. Some of the guys on here could go on for days about panhard bars.... :)
     
  7. 29paul
    Joined: Dec 30, 2007
    Posts: 267

    29paul
    Member

    What can I say that has not been said.Very good work
     
  8. BELLM
    Joined: Nov 16, 2002
    Posts: 2,590

    BELLM
    Member

    I'm at a loss for words but amazing and awesome run thru my mind at each photo. Unbeleiveable design and craftmanship.
     
  9. pvcerod
    Joined: Dec 31, 2005
    Posts: 76

    pvcerod
    Member
    from Australia

    Boy that is just awesome work........you got 5 mins to spare, I'll pop round tonight so you can teach me to Tig Weld like that :cool: any chance of getting someone to Video you while your Welding to post up here........can't wait to see the rest of your Build.:cool::)
     
  10. Dirtynails
    Joined: Jan 31, 2009
    Posts: 843

    Dirtynails
    Member
    from garage

    Not a bad idea aristically for the engine and radiator mount but you could have gone down a size in material thickness and still achieved the strength you have built in. What worries me though is the size of the mount bush. Thats very small and unless the owner has his engine balanced and in very good tune constantly the vibrations are going to sent through the car. my last Hemi powered car had the engine bolted solid to the chassis but was vibration free except at idle where all sorts of odd sounds from the engine were sent through the car. It can be real tiring ...:).
    What is always forgotten is that chassis move and twist a lot when a car is driving and the engine is a solid lump that doesn't bend in the same period with the chassis. If there is insufficient insulation you will get sonic periods of vibration ,some of which are not detectable by human ear etc ,which will cause tiring vibrations. That same twisting and bending ,while not like galloping gertie the bridge, can and will cause twisting and bending of things like trans housings and drive shaft joints. Just a thought.:)


    Also,if you are using lots of sanding materials, build a stationary disc sander and belt sander. theres plenty of info on lots of websites right across the www on how to build one at home using old motors etc. I think you could build an effective machine yourself without too much effort. ;):)
     
  11. Coupe-De-CAB
    Joined: Sep 30, 2004
    Posts: 2,098

    Coupe-De-CAB
    Member
    from Nor Cal

    Genius!

    Absolutely beautiful craftsmanship, thanks for sharing this build, very inspiring indeed:)

    Grace and peace†
     
  12. Goodsonbg
    Joined: Sep 18, 2008
    Posts: 56

    Goodsonbg
    Member

    Quality to the highest degree
     
  13. Dr.Kerry
    Joined: Aug 22, 2005
    Posts: 448

    Dr.Kerry
    Member

    Way kool stuff, great welding. Are you tig welding all of this? It looks like it....
     
  14. bustingear
    Joined: Oct 29, 2002
    Posts: 2,341

    bustingear
    Member

    Your work is stellar. You must be busy all of the time.
     
  15. bonesy
    Joined: Aug 14, 2005
    Posts: 2,999

    bonesy
    Member

    Quit slacking. Get back on that roadster.
     
  16. MBog
    Joined: May 2, 2006
    Posts: 556

    MBog
    Member

    This is the singlemost valuable and informative, well illustrated, most descriptive, inspirational, humbling motherfucking post I have ever read on here.
    Damn.
    DITTO
    I wish i was partially that talented
     
  17. scottybaccus
    Joined: Mar 13, 2006
    Posts: 4,109

    scottybaccus
    Member

    Brian, You are absolutely the most talented and creative SOB I have ever met. Fantastic work, not as usual though. You keep raising the bar.

    Everytime you share a new build I have to go cut my wrist. Fuck that hurts! You're gonna be the end of me one of these days! :)
     
  18. Lighten up Fuckwad...........Francis is too good a nick for you. :rolleyes:
     
  19. skullcracker
    Joined: Feb 2, 2005
    Posts: 208

    skullcracker
    Member
    from Austin

  20. Kail
    Joined: Jul 7, 2007
    Posts: 828

    Kail
    Member
    from Austin, TX

    An outstanding contributor to the industry. Can't wait to see more.
     
  21. MrkCat37
    Joined: Jan 15, 2009
    Posts: 62

    MrkCat37
    Member

    Beautiful! Thanks for posting.
     
  22. you hit the nail on the head! Any body can be a critic.
     
  23. Leaky Pipes
    Joined: Jan 11, 2005
    Posts: 596

    Leaky Pipes
    Member

    Wow, Incredible work! I've been inspired.....
     
  24. I guess I wasn't as clear as I could have been on my question Brian. I would like to see a good picture of the tierod when the chassis is up in the air on jackstands with the wheels turned all the way to the left or right. My concern on mine is whether there will not enough clearance between the spring and tierod during movement. Just wanted a good shot of it from underneath so I could visualize mine. Thanks again for getting back to me. I can't stop thinking about this build. You really messed me up.
     
  25. 26T
    Joined: Jul 8, 2006
    Posts: 112

    26T
    Member
    from Denver

    Yeah Bass you should go online to see how to build a belt sander!!!!
     
  26. borntoolate
    Joined: Feb 18, 2006
    Posts: 320

    borntoolate
    Member

    Groovy. I feel privileged to have seen these pics. Keep it up.
     
  27. Bass ... that chassis is simply Beautimous (and Mr. Wade has good taste in motors! :D) ... thanks for sharing.
     
  28. Bass
    Joined: Jul 9, 2001
    Posts: 3,364

    Bass
    Member
    from Dallas, TX


    I'll see if I can get a photo of it for you sometime in the next couple of days, Dale.

    I can tell you though, that the centerline of the shackle is 1.5", so that is the farthest down vertically that the spring could ever drop. So if you consider that the OD of the spring eye is 1.215", the farthest the bottom edge of the spring eye could ever get from the centerline of the perch under any circumstance is 2.1075" (half of spring eye + shackle centerlines).

    I bent the steering arms on the spindles so that I have 3.250" from the centerline of the spring perch to the top of the tie rod at full lock either direction. So I will still have 1.1425" clearance at full lock if the shackle ever goes full vertical down....but I doubt that it ever would.

    Regardless of all the technical mumbo jumbo, the answer is that there is plenty of clearance. Hope that helps...sorry I messed you up! :)
     
  29. AnimalAin
    Joined: Jul 20, 2002
    Posts: 3,416

    AnimalAin
    Member

    WOW!!! Thanks for sharing in such detail. Inspirational.
     
  30. Thanks man, Glad to hear. I appreciate you taking the time to make this thread. Very inspiring to say the least. I think I am going to try something similiar. I got these PSI batwings(cast)and hairpins that are steel with cast ends. Ever see them? They are cool but I am unsure if the cast batwing will be strong enough to hold the spring pivot . I might have to make a tab off the back of my v-8 60 to do it for the pivots. What is your thought on the strength of the cast batwing and welding the pivot on it. Here's a couple of pics.
     

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