Is anyone here running a 4" dropped axle with '37-'41 Ford spindles and a split Model A wishbone? This is what I have and with the stock steering arms on the spindles, the tie rod was sitting on top of the wishbones. It looked like it would need to DROP about an inch to be able to run over the top of the bones. Not wanting to cut into the wishbones, and since I didn't have a torch to bend the arms, I ordered some dropped steering arms from Speedway. The biggest drop they offered. Now, with the stock arms cut off and the new arms bolted on, the damn tie rod is resting on the bottom of the wishbones and looks like it needs to come UP about an inch to be able to run under the bones. Mike Bishop will probably say this is what I get for mixing Ford parts with aftermarket*****. WTF? This shouldn't be such a pain in the****! I know it has been done 1000 times before. I'm thinking about trading my cut spindles for some stockers and bending the arm UP so I can run the tie rod over the wishbones. The RPU sits up like a stinkbug anyway. I wouldn't hit the frame or the engine this way. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks, Jim
I have the same combo and the same question. I just swapped my split A bones for an uncut 34 wishbone and if the arms where an inch higher it would work...
dude will the shorter drop bolt on arms work for you? If so I have a set of the shorter ones still in the box, that wont work for what I am doing but I think the bigger ones will. You wanna trade?????
The shorter dropped arms won't help me. I think I either need stock spindles with the arms bent up or a deeper dropped arm to go under. (but a deeper drop is going to get into scrub line issues) JH
i had this same problem...i split a 37 wishbone i have 37 spindles and a dropped 32 axle...i bent the arms on the spindles down right where they come out...(on the bend)...this put a twist in them so i straightened that out and pulled the ends backj till they were level...then i cut the eye off the end flipped it over and tig welded it back on...make sure to bevel the edges and get full penetration ...no filler on the first pass...then once i got it all welded i ground and polished the weld and then beat on it with an old rusty hammer to close the molecules like shot peening and also it gave it the cast look back on the arm...so this put the tie rod ends so they go in from the top and my tie rod is between the wishbones and the frame...im going to have to put a slight bend in the tie rod to clear the back channel of my model-A crossmember hope this helps...sorry i didn;t take pics along the way zach
oh the reason i did the bend downward right out of the spindle was to gain more steering...it would hit the axle and not let the wheels travel far enough...you may not have this problem with your axle though zach
[ QUOTE ] hope this helps...sorry i didn;t take pics along the way zach [/ QUOTE ] At this point, I'd settle for an "after" pic. Got any? Thanks, JH
. I know it's too late now but if you retaper the spindle arm from the top, The tie rod clears the radius rods without the pretzel treatment.
Anybody have a pair of stock, uncut, round back spindles they would trade for a pair of spindles with Speedway dropped steering arms? JH
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