Projects Thoughts on NEW tri-five Chevy convertible bodies?

I've been in the market for a project 1955 1956 1957 Chevy convertible and so far I've run into a bunch of middle men, overpriced rust buckets, and high dollar restored beauties.
Lately I have been giving some thought on those new Chevy bodies that are being made, they look great, they are priced reasonably, but I wonder what are the cons?
Has anyone had any experience with these?
I believe there is a couple companies making them?
What about the VIN? Do you buy and original to use on a new body?
I would appreciate anyone's thoughts.
Thank you!!!


PS: This is NOT my picture, I grabbed this picture off the internet.

 

I guess you'll have to come up with a vin from a dead car or maybe get one assigned and title it as a 2021. The new metal will save a lot of time and most likely money, but there will be a million little things to round up. Chassis is a piece of cake, so the big parts will come together fast, but the details would wear me out, I'm afraid.

 

Yep, need a donor car..

 

Convertible frame is not easy to find. Pinch weld molding around the back is expensive. Then window regulators belt line trim. It gonna get expensive.

 

Some states accept a Certificate of Origin as the title and will assign a VIN to a reproduction body. Don't know if the company that sells the 57 body offers one. As stated above, donor car may be a better option.

 

I have seen the dynacorn mustang repops and they look great.

if this is anything like those I would go for it.
But a donor car would be required for all the “bits”

up here you could get “ historic papers “ and title it as an og tri five, or get a new vin assigned but then it’s a 2021 custom build.

I would go with the donor car.

 

I think you could likely start with a 4 door donor, reuse the front clip, complete chassis (with convertible-specific reinforcement parts added), dash parts, bumpers, etc. and just use that title with it. At that point, it's an original car with a replacement body tub and new doors.

But, all of the pieces that are required to finish this thing out are going to cost a ton. Think of the windshield moldings, convertible top frame, seats (convertible rear is specific, good '57 split bench cores sell for $1000), all side moldings, plus all of the interior, and you'll have to repaint everything from the beginning, like a frame-off resto.

If you start with a 2 door hardtop donor, the amount of parts you'll have to buy would be less but the buy-in cost of the donor would be greatly increased.

I doubt you'd be able to put it together, even doing almost everything yourself, for less than $50K. It could produce a nice car, but I don't think it will produce a low-budget car.

If you can buy a new convertible top frame, the windshield hoop, and the convertible-specific stampings in the rear of the body tub, you could likely convert a hardtop into a factory-spec convertible. Still not exactly cheap, but a possibility.

 

Rusty donor car that requires all new patch panels except the left front door jamb.

 

I don't know if this is the legal way but it's the way I would do it.

 

They have information on how to register them right on their website. https://realdealsteel.com/ft-2216-registration-questions.html As they mention, the requirements vary by state; you can get more information about your state from the SEMASAN website. https://www.semasan.com/resources/e...gister-and-title-your-hobby-car-all-50-states

Registration Questions

1. What kind of records and paperwork do I need to register the car?
2. What is an MSO (MCO)?
3. What if I have an existing title and VIN?
4. More helpful tips for you:
5. How do I title and register a car built using a Real Deal Steel body?

Q: What kind of records and paperwork do I need to register the car?
A bill of sale (invoice issued by selling dealer) is acceptable if the manufacturer didn’t issue an MSO. Completed Application For Certificate Of Title (from your state DMV). Notarized affidavit, stating that the vehicle is able to be operated on public roads. The statement must also list the repairs made to the vehicle. Bills of sale or receipts for all parts and equipment that weren’t part of the body. All documents must include name and address of seller. Components may include front end, rear end, doors, engine, transmission, frame, cowl assembly, or any parts of those elements. Applicable sales tax (or fill out the statement on sales tax on the application form). License plate number for the vehicle (If using an existing plate), or an affidavit of non-use. Applicable title fees.

Q: What is an MSO (MCO)?
An MSO or MCO is short for a manufacturer’s statement (or certificate) of origin. At Real Deal Steel, we are not a vehicle manufacturer. We are a body assembly company, thus we do not issue an MSO or MCO. We do, however, issue a body number and invoice (by selling dealer) that will take the place of the MSO when registering your vehicle in your state.

Q: What if I have an existing title and VIN?
We DO NOT suggest using the VIN plate from an original car transferred onto a Real Deal Steel body. Particularly if you are a shop building the car for a customer. This practice can get you into a heap of trouble. However, if you hold clear title to an original frame to be used under your Real Deal Steel body, have the state inspect the frame and verify the VIN before assembly. For 1955-57 Chevrolet passenger car frames, the VIN is stamped in two places on top of the driver’s side frame rail. In most cases, your state will issue you a readable VIN plate/tag that matches your frame and title that may be displayed on the body.

Q: More helpful tips for you:
Just like any dealing with the government, proper record-keeping is the secret to making this process easy! In addition, we recommend:

1. Before you do anything on your project, know what kind of documentation that the state is going to require for issuing title. Get fact sheets from your state’s Department of Motor Vehicles. Many times, these are available from the state website. Or if you don’t like downloading stuff, you can probably get them or find out how to order at your local DMV office. Once you get the fact sheets, read them carefully, and keep all of that information in mind as you buy your parts and build your car.
2. Always get proper documentation when you purchase a part. Whenever you buy any part, and especially for major parts like engines, frames and probably transmissions, make sure you get adequate proof of purchase documentation. You can never have too much, so keep all bills of sale, invoices (especially mail order parts), and even canceled checks, and credit card receipts or statements. As applicable, make sure each document accurately records the relevant information. For example a bill of sale should have the vendor’s name and address, your name, a description of the part, and the amount and date of purchase. For major components like engines, make sure the bill has the VIN or serial number on it.
3. Keep a build diary. From the very first part you buy keep a build diary. Each entry in the diary should be dated. When recording a purchase of a part, all relevant information should be written into the diary, including vendor’s name and address, date of purchase, description of part (including condition), price paid, and any identifying marks. Each major step in the build process should be recorded in the diary. Things like major component disassembly/assembly, sanding/blasting, painting, etc. should be recorded. If you send a part out to a contractor, record a description of the part, purpose for sending out (e.g., painting), date out and back, and costs (in order to get a title, you probably will have to get an appraisal of the finished car, and this kind of information can prove to be indispensable). All major steps in the build process should be documented with photographs before and after. VIN and serial numbers should be documented by photographs or rubbings, or both. Finally, keep the build diary current and up to date. Keep in mind that the diary is your document made to augment things like bills of sale, invoices and etc. Because it is your document the argument could be that you can make it say anything you want it to say. However, there is a long and strong tradition in American law to treat such records as reliable evidence as long as certain criteria are met.
4. Simple adherence to the above principals should go a long way to avoiding problems in getting the finished car titled. It’s really not that hard as long as you keep good records and follow the rules your state has set forth.

Q: How do I title and register a car built using a Real Deal Steel body?
If you do not have a new or original chassis with a title or MSO, you will need to register the car built with a Real Deal Steel body as a “Newly Assembled” vehicle with your state. While we do not issue an MSO, you will be issued a Bill Of Sale (your purchase invoice) by the dealer you purchased your body from. This invoice will be considered as an MSO by your state DMV (check your local laws and regulations). In most cases, the body number issued by Real Deal Steel for your body will be used as or incorporated into the vehicle identification number (VIN) assigned by your state DMV when you register the car. You can find state specific information by visiting the SEMA Action Network’s page, Click here (opens a new window).

 

I’ve done a ton of research and have a car set aside that I plan to do this to. I’m no expert but a couple of things I’ve learned that will help. Plus I’m a 57 guy so that helps too.
Frame - if you are going to use a stock frame and the aftermarket stock rag top convertible x member with skid plates you need the two piece frame opposed to the one piece. Plus a hard top frame has different body mounts but those can be added.
Body wise a hardtop has the vin plate in the correct location opposed to a sedan.
I planned to use my 4dr hardtop that I got for the donor. Real deal steel will sell the back half minus cowl for about $12k
2dr Hard top doors can be used as well.
Front sheet metal, deck lid, bumpers, trim all standard bel air stuff.
Most stuff is available which is nice.
Plus you can work as you go and start with a nice body opposed to paying $30k plus for rust. A 2dr hard top would be the best donor but if it’s too nice it would be hard for me to cut it up.
I think it very do able and I’m hoping to start next year. I currently have a few projects a head of this one.


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It's so far out of my price range that it isn't even a consideration but if you have a tri 5 with a clear title in your name that looks like one big patch panel to me. Simply put, you legally obtained an own a tri 5 Chevy, then you decided to change the body to the one you want and you have the receipt for that body.
That equals, proof you legally own the vehicle even though it doesn't quite look the way the original one did when it left the factory.
Snooping shows that on tri 6 the vin number shows what series = 150, 210 or Bel Air but doesn't show body style so a donor of the series you want with a correct ragtop trim tag would fly. 1955-57 Chevy VIN Decoder & Trim Tag Decoder (classicindustries.com)

From what I have personally been though and seen, proof that you legally own it and legally obtained (with documentation) all major parts on the vehicle are paramount in all states. That doesn't mean that you won't have to title it as rebuilt rather than with a non branded title. That really ties some guys undies in a knot but after all it is "rebuilt".

 

I personally think this is going to become more popular in the next few years with Tri5 Chevys. With a frame, cowl and a title like mentioned above it’s just “patch” panels from there. [emoji6]


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I am selling stacks of tri5 frames, stacks of hoods, fenders, cowls, paper work, doors, deck lids, hinges, door guts, trim, etc., etc, etc. for an elderly friend of mine. Surprisingly no stock front seats!

 

I don't see anything wrong with that,
I've seen historic race cars restored from an oil slick on the road

 

Remember hardtop/convert windshields are different (shorter in height) than 2 & 4 door sedans so the windshield frame work will also be different..............................

 

There was one company building those repo bodies using an original firewall with tags, so it was essentially a large replacement panel just put together to look like a car. I don't remember the name, but you could get anything from a bare body to a fully complete car. They were supposedly 50 state legal registerable.

As to the Dynacorn stuff, I've read where they were close to original, but in many times needed tweaking here or there for their parts to line of with factory stock parts. Due to tolerance stackups over the years, it's possible some parts look basically the same, but bolt holes would be off, radius might be off a touch on a panel, or a panel might be slightly over or undersized. Still better than a rail car full of rusted metal to have to patch before you could use it.

 

Hot Rod Magazine built a '55 Chevy completely from new parts last year. Pretty impressive that you can get just about everything new, but I was always curious as to how they titled and registered it.

 

When you buy the back half from real deal steel it comes with the windshield frame. You cut your frame and weld the new one in.


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This path is no cheaper than the "high dollar restored beauties" you speak of. But it is a lot more work.

 

I think, like many have said, it could make sense if you had a car that was rotting or rolled, etc. that you could strip and move parts over from.

 

I wanted to do this with a '57-'62 Vette but by the time you add it all up you might as well buy original. Looks like a '57 vert is bringing bigger money than the vette!

 

Carefully research your local laws, and work within them.

Not doing so could make you broke, your lawyer rich, and your car gone.

 

Brigrat, before I bought my 61 corvette I looked into building a corvette but it just wasn’t worth it. The problem is every early corvette I found was restored and tons of money. No body seemed to have projects.

I bought this 4dr hardtop for $1500 in 2018. I think $30k would go a long ways opposed to starting with rust.
Complete minus engine and trans. Hope to start next year.


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That looks more like surface rust(on my phone) and not rot. That’s a good candidate, IMO, to work on as-is

 

Mostly yes, and still could be if something else doesn’t show up in the mean time to replace it.
The only two bad spots are the roof and passenger rear quarter is made of bondo.
It was a factory pwr steering pwr pack car which is neat.
But When I start adding up 4dr hardtop stuff it isn’t cheap either and my brain starts thinking I could be buying stuff towards rag top conversion.


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it would be an expensive way to go without a donor convert. All the missing parts you will need is going to cost a bundle.. what does the convert rack cost, plus a convert frame (different I think than a sedan) or are you going aftermarket frame...

 

When I had my shop down in Florida I had a customer that wanted to do exactly what you are talking about doing except he wanted a 55 2 door hardtop. I did a lot of leg work work for my own information as well as my customer's.
I called Woody's who builds cars from scratch and you can build one without a vin number. They told me all of the parts to build a hardtop roller would run about 30k depending on the options and the completeness that you got.
At that time they had just finished a 57 convertible for one of their customers who happened to also be from Florida. They told me it was just shy of 100 k to build it turn key with a brand new body . New chassis with rack and pinion steering ,4 wheel discs . New all aluminum LS motor ,4l80 E transmission .
Power windows , power seats, A/C . Just a totally brand new car. That was going to be registered as a 57 Chevy special built car as hot rods are registered as what they most closely appear to resemble.
Same procedure as building a kit Cobra or T bucket. Depending on what state you live. You must have receipts for every part in Tn. so they can get their money out of you in taxes even though you paid taxes on the parts when you bought them.
I wanted to build a 55 210 2 door post car. I figured doing it all myself I could do it for around 30 k and have a brand new 55 Chevy the way I wanted it. At the time I had a line on a 55 2 door donor car for cheap that was bad rusty, but had a lot of the little items that would drive the cost up.

 

Get a few catalogs like Classic Industries, Danchuk, etc and a calculator....

 

I heard, about 60 years ago, that convert frames were the same as station wagon. But, I heard a lot of other stuff too....