I need to upgrade the brakes on my 1963 Ford Country Sedan (big *** wagon). Has anyone used these kits off ebay? Is a single piston caliper with power brake booster going to be sufficient for my car?(standard street driving, no hard driving or towing). Thoughts, opinions and recommendations welcome! http://www.ebay.com/itm/331763764625?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
Don't know specifics about that kit. Single piston disc calipers are more than enough to stop your car. Millions of 1/2 to 1 ton trucks from 1973 to the early 90's used them. As well as most cars!
Skip the disc swap. Use a small booster on the stock master. I did the same on a 82 year old friends 64 Galaxie convertible, and I knew it would put him through the windshield on the first test, so I warned him. You will be shocked My friend got the 64 Galaxie kit on ebay and came with a dual master, my friend wanted to use the stock single, so we did. It stops insane if you are not aware how touchy they are
If you decide to go the disc brake route, make sure the replacement pads, calipers, and rotors are easily sourced. Some kits use oddball stuff.
Another thing to think about... If you use the proper master cylinder piston diameter (about 1"), you "do not" need a booster. I've done this to more than a coupla cars, two toe stopping input is all that's needed. And as the others say, a single piston caliper is fine. The caliper piston diameter should be about 2-3/8" to work well enough for a big car. Mike
Look up Scarebird disc brakes on the Internet or ebay. Great guy to deal with. If you have any questions about the installation, he answers the phone. Sent from my SM-N910V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I would try to find a kit with rear dust shields. There are some out there for 54-56 so you should have available too.
A friend of mine put an S-10 power booster on an otherwise-stock-brakes '57 Chevy wagon with the same results. All the stopping power one could need.
The problem is that most of the "vocal" posters on the net, they will never believe your friend with the 57 wagon, or my friend with the Galaxie..both are heavy cars. They have their heads up you know where.. ..thinking that adding discs makes for less pedal effort, which is opposite of reality. And some even try to validate the need for a s-10 or explorer disc rear on a lightweight rod. and then we read their constant threads about how to bleed their inoperativebrakes, or help in why the pedal is low, or the dang car does not stop for beans. Most of the vocal crowd don't even understand generators or points. LOL The ones that do, have the brains not to post on the net, to avoid the bashing he, he
I had a couple of '64 Fords with drum brakes and they stopped fine. A dual master conversion is easy and a least expensive option. I did a manual disc conversion on my '59 Ford, pedal pressure is high but it stops well. I still think the drums may stop it a little better.
If you drive in mountains, disc are better - they fade less when hot. I've had to pull over and wait for an hour or so coming down both Wolf Creek P*** and Steamboat p*** in CO. (That was in a 65 Tempest with manual everything.) After a bunch of repeated stops, it basically wouldn't stop, and the powerglide wasn't much help with engine braking. I'd also go to disc on 50's and earlier Mopar where the brake adjustment is a big pain. That's just me. But most cars, most days, drums are fine.
Its best to stay away from scarebird. His parts did not fit until I took a grinder to my spindle and you do NOT want to talk to him on the phone..
My 60 Chevy had already converted to disc brakes , via camaro front clip...Did a upgrade with a CPP power booster kit..was priced right and worth the upgrade( and stopping power) the big 60 Chevy SD whoas way better. Sent from my XT1585 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Can I do this in phases? IE power brake booster and dual pot master now, disc later? Or vise versa? I'm hearing the master cylinders have to mstch the brakes. This true? Or can I get away with it?
I am sure I will get bashed, but I would definitely add just a booster to the stock M/C just so you can see the amazing difference in pedal pressure! When people say "my old 50s-60s car does not stop to good", normally they really mean that they have to press the pedal somewhat hard to brake. We all got used to power brakes over the decades, so an unboosted master on a full size car seems ****py now. My caution on boosters added to a stock drum brake car, is that when the factory did this, they used a single diaphragm booster, somewhat small, and likely changed pedal ratio to have less leverage. When you add those ebay retro dual diaphragm boosters on a stock drum braked manual brake car, the first time you hit the brakes, you better not be drunk. It will put you through the windshield I would just add a booster. If you are towing a non-braked camping trailer in the mountains? I would then do front discs... Just my opinion on doing booster-only swaps on many mid 60s trucks and cars. A show pickup does not need discs, but hauling 2 tons of cordwood will.
To answer your other question about doing discs first without a booster? I would not. I think you will be very unhappy on how much pedal effort it still takes to brake the car.
I put his parts on my '61 Pontiac Safari. Only had one question, called him and he couldn't have been a nicer guy. First cl*** guy in my opinion. Sent from my SM-N910V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
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